TIKKA RIFLE BUILD QUESTIONS 300wsm,6.8 western,7saum??

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13bibby

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Hi all this is my first post and I am a pretty new shooter.
I am looking for help deciding on a build I am doing for a longish range hunting rifle based off a tikka action.

Here are my perameters:
1.I am looking for something to take the biggest of game in bc ( elk, moose, caribou, bear, sheep, goat)
2. Want it to be capable of 700 yards in the field. At 500 a hammer
3. Would like to reach out further for practice (1000)
4. Want a shorter barrel 20-22 inch plus possibly a brake depending on caliber.
5. Lightweight is a factor will primarily used in mountain hunting situations and fly in hunting.

From my own research I have come down to 3 choices of caliber. In order of my current preference
1. 300wsm 2. 6.8 western *not tikka action? 3. 7rsaum

300wsm:
PROS
-Ability to run factory ammo. I currently do not reload but would like to in the near future.
-tikka action could allow higher bc bullets with long action?
-Factory ammo availability
-bullet weight
-good in grizzly country
CONS
-barrel length? 24?
-recoil in lightweight gun
-needs brake + hearing protection?

6.8 western
PROS
- lighter recoil
-short action?
-shorter barrel
- .277 I already own 270 win could be good for future reloading both rifles
- ammo availability?
CONS
-bullet selection?
-new caliber
-
7 Saum
PROS
-shorter barrel
-recoil
-bullet selection
CONS
-factory ammo
-needs hand loads

So I'm looking for any suggestions here these are my options built as follows:

Tikka magnum
Mdt hnt26
22inch carbon prefit tikka barrel ( bull or sendero)? 1-9 twist (1-10?)
Reaming options for long action? Will this work with factory ammo? I don't fully understand this
Muzzle brake suggestions?

Just buy a New 6.8 rifle?
Or tikka mag
20 inch barrel custom 6.8 1-7.5 twist
No brake
Mdt hnt 26

7saum tikka mag
22 inch prefit carbon sendero 1-8.5
No brake
Mdt Hnt 26

Scope swarovski z5 3.5-18x44mm

Thanks for any input
 
300 WSM. Can get decent factory ammo. Will do anything you ask of it. Even the long range stuff. 1-10 twist will do most bullets except the real heavies. Threaded end and you can decide on brake.

As said a light weight magnum can take some getting used to.

The 6.8 westerner. I have never seen any ammo available yet.

Good luck on 7saum ammo.
 
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Thanks for the input. I have shot lighter magnums in tikkas without much problems. If I get a brake for target and hunt without I'm hoping this will help. As for the twist would a 1-9 have any disadvantages with the smaller bullets if I did want to got bigger I think the option would be great. But 1-10 seems to be the consensus with the wsm
 
How heavy are you planning on using? 1-10 should do most. I recently built a 300PRC and went with a 1-8. But that is for 250gr.

Given any thought to the 300PRC?
 
Thinking 220 would be maxing it out. Not sure on what weight is optimal. I have looked at prc and win mag but i wanted a shorter barrel from what i have read they don't do as well in a shorter barrel powder burn.I don't know enough about rifle building for a custom mountain rifle to 700y prc might do ok in a shorter barrel?
 
You're a new shooter, you don't handload and you want to shoot at game at 700 yards?

None of this sounds good to be blunt.

I would consider the cost and availability of appropriate ammunition to become proficient enough to hit a kill zone under field conditions. As well as the cost of gas to get to a place to shoot 700+ yards consistently (like at least a few times a month)

Start with ammo availability and work back from that.
 
Gatehouse said:
You're a new shooter, you don't handload and you want to shoot at game at 700 yards?

None of this sounds good to be blunt.

I would consider the cost and availability of appropriate ammunition to become proficient enough to hit a kill zone under field conditions. As well as the cost of gas to get to a place to shoot 700+ yards consistently (like at least a few times a month)

Start with ammo availability and work back from that.
Click to expand...

Yes. The ammo availability, which quickly becomes a budget thing, is the driver here. To be a consistent long range shooter lots of practice is the elephant in the room. Pick a caliber you can afford to shoot a lot. I’m short on $$, do I shoot 22LR a lot. I reload, so my cost conscious way is a Howa 300PRC in an Oryx chassis. Your performance out the end of this process would probably end up better and more satisfying burning $3K of ammo in a 22 trainer rifle and buying a factory 7MM, 6.5PRC, or 300PRC.
 
Thanks again the the input Few things I understand the trepidation about being a "new shooter" this is why I stated this in the post and also why I posted this in the target and precsion rifle forum.by a target and precsion rifle standard I definatly am. I am not however a new hunter or new to shooting game at 300-500 in field conditions but I am wanting to stretch out my range capability. I also do spend a large amount of time at my cabin with lots of long range acess(700++). I plan on keeping shots on animals within 500 yards but again would like to have ability with this rifle on any big game animal in BC to reach out and have the takedown power if my skill set improvements alow it. I could just buy one of those rifles and call it a day but why this is a purpose driven gun. Needs to be short and packable (bushwacking, fly in hunts) lightweight for 14 day mountain hunts and to have longer range capability for open country ( caribou). And also as someone wanting to improve and learn about gun building, hand loading and target shooting. This is a big purchase and that's why I plan on making it a long term project. As for availability of ammunition the 6.5 class seems to be pretty non existent. 300wsm seems the most available in factory ammo and 300win
 
I have had several 300 WSM's and will never sell the one I have now. It's a Browning Mountain TI at 5.5 pounds rifle only. I & my son both have identical guns. They both have limbsaver pads on them & no brake. I don't find the recoil any worse than an 06 or a 270. My first one had a brake on it & I sold it because of the terrible ugly muzzle blast from the brake. Will never own a rifle with a brake again. I am currently handloading 190 grain Nosler Accubond LR. My son was able to put two holes within an inch at 500 yards. I have no idea how repeatable that is but it certainly has potential & thats just a factory rifle.
 
Awsome that is just the type of experience I'm looking for was very unsure about the brake for that same reason. This caliber is looking more and more intriguing and seems like it hits a sweet spot. Any info on barrel length you have experience with? Without a brake I could potentially go up in size
 
13bibby said:
Thanks again the the input Few things I understand the trepidation about being a "new shooter" this is why I stated this in the post and also why I posted this in the target and precsion rifle forum.by a target and precsion rifle standard I definatly am. I am not however a new hunter or new to shooting game at 300-500 in field conditions but I am wanting to stretch out my range capability. I also do spend a large amount of time at my cabin with lots of long range acess(700++). I plan on keeping shots on animals within 500 yards but again would like to have ability with this rifle on any big game animal in BC to reach out and have the takedown power if my skill set improvements alow it. I could just buy one of those rifles and call it a day but why this is a purpose driven gun. Needs to be short and packable (bushwacking, fly in hunts) lightweight for 14 day mountain hunts and to have longer range capability for open country ( caribou). And also as someone wanting to improve and learn about gun building, hand loading and target shooting. This is a big purchase and that's why I plan on making it a long term project. As for availability of ammunition the 6.5 class seems to be pretty non existent. 300wsm seems the most available in factory ammo and 300win
Click to expand...

I think you should build a 8lb .375 cheytac then.
 
Most people just have to learn the hard way. Me included. There is no one size fits all. Everything is a compromise.
I don’t care who you are if you think you can precisely, long term , shoot a 30cal magnum thats under 10lbs you are dreaming. And anyone that shoots 1 or 2 boxes of ammo a year because their “one size fits all” rifle is to uncomfortable to shoot has no business shoot game at extended range.
 
Long action magnum Tikkas make great donors for short mag, long, high BC bullets. Wsm or saum cartridges generally work good in shorter barrels as I’m sure you’ve read. You could always pick up a 7mm rem mag tikka and shoot it for a while and practice longer range. There’s a few newer choices that come with brakes. Later do a shortmag prefit with a fast twist to shoot heavy for caliber bullets. I would also start buying reloading gear, for what you want to do it will be a necessity.
 
I’ll chime in here but only because I just went through something similar. My parameters were for a magnum to hunt big game as well as LR shooting. I wanted excellent ballistics and it had to be comfortable to shoot repeatedly without thumping the shooter. The weight also had to stay reasonable while balancing barrel/action stiffness and perceived recoil.

After much research I chose the 7RM and had Insite Arms build me a custom rifle. Weight came in at 13.5 lbs with scope, the barrel is heavy enough for extended shot strings and just hammers. Recoil is a joke thanks to the barrel profile and their excellent brakes as blast is directed away from the shooter (I don’t even notice).

When it comes to ballistics and recoil, its hard to beat a 7mm for efficiency. If I have to use factory ammo in a pinch, 7RM is readily available.
 
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