YIKES ! 13.5 lbs 
RJ
RJ
TIKKA RIFLE BUILD QUESTIONS 300wsm,6.8 western,7saum??
- Thread starter 13bibby
- Start date
This sounds like my thinking on this project possibly put it in the chassis I want to use and practice on the 7mm until I am ready to rebarrel. As for the long actions with short magnum if wanting to use the long high bc bullets is there anything to consider when chambering? If wanting to utilize all the case capacity?I am on the road to reloading and have access to friends shop in the meantime to help work up loads. Thanks for the insite
YIKES ! 13.5 lbs
I come from a target shooting background/mentality. I could have had it lighter sure, but then it becomes harder to drive (consistency in follow through, spotting hits, ect) thinner barrels heat up quickly, not ideal for LR shooting. The rifle had to strike a good balance. I’m used to carrying gear and use a tab biathlon sling, or strap it centerline of pack (if hiking in/out) it makes all the difference.
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No problem for the .375CT in that department.
Building off a long action and no limitations of mag space gives you options for how long of a throat when chambering. You first need to decide on what bullet you want to shoot then figure out where in the case you want that bullet to sit so it isn't too deep eating up powder space. There will be different reamers out there based on what you want.
I have a Rem 700 in an HNT26. Swap between 20"steel med palma .308 barrel and 26" carbon MTU 7 SAUM barrel. With a NF NX8 2.5-20 (28oz) and a double-pull Ckye-pod (which alone weighs 1.8lbs) it's under 12lbs in both configurations. Since you don't handload (which is a requirement for 7SAUM), I'd suggest a similar setup to my carbon barrel, maybe with a lighter profile barrel (but built on a Tikka as you prefer) in long action, either a 7mm Rem Mag or .300PRC. Both those calibers have good ammo available that is suitable for long range (with the edge probably going to .300PRC). Not really any reason to get into a caliber that really needs to be hand loaded for when you don't handload. You can always swap calibers down the line if/when you start hand loading.
Like others have said, everything in this build will be a compromise between weight and performance/usability at range. The heavier the rifle, the easier it will be to shoot effectively. Personally I'd stick with a long-sh barrel (24") since you can get the HNT26 with a folder anyways. I'd also definitely use a muzzle brake, it will improve your ability to spot hits/misses/splash and stay on target. I hunt using electronic in-ear hearing protection.
Finally the most important thing is practice/training. Shooting long range in field conditions is no joke, especially in the mountains of BC. Shooting a "thumper" of a caliber definitely increases your wind error budget but you still need the skills and experience to read the terrain and understand how it will effect bullet flight/wind drift. If you're serious about shooting long range, I'd definitely suggest getting a different rifle in a short action caliber that is more wallet friendly to shoot both in terms of ammo cost and barrel life. Use that to both work on improving your skills and almost more importantly, learning what your limitations are.
Like others have said, everything in this build will be a compromise between weight and performance/usability at range. The heavier the rifle, the easier it will be to shoot effectively. Personally I'd stick with a long-sh barrel (24") since you can get the HNT26 with a folder anyways. I'd also definitely use a muzzle brake, it will improve your ability to spot hits/misses/splash and stay on target. I hunt using electronic in-ear hearing protection.
Finally the most important thing is practice/training. Shooting long range in field conditions is no joke, especially in the mountains of BC. Shooting a "thumper" of a caliber definitely increases your wind error budget but you still need the skills and experience to read the terrain and understand how it will effect bullet flight/wind drift. If you're serious about shooting long range, I'd definitely suggest getting a different rifle in a short action caliber that is more wallet friendly to shoot both in terms of ammo cost and barrel life. Use that to both work on improving your skills and almost more importantly, learning what your limitations are.
Phil & Caylen from Modern Day Sniper have commented that many hunters that use magnums cannot adequately shoot them. And they know this because they train a bunch of them. Magnums are punishing if your fundamentals are even slightly off, and the concussion and recoil of magnums develops really bad habits in shooters.
They recommend non-magnums for the majority of hunters, and I still stand by this suggestion to the OP. I think the OP would be much better off with something like a 6.5x55, or maybe even a 6.5 PRC, then the heavier cartridges. Newer shooters always seem to have some fascination for big magnums, but it just does them a disservice in the long run.
For long range consider a Tikka Tactical in 300 Win mag with a TRG brake.
The one I have , with a 16X top end on scope, is quite capable of 5 shots in 4.00" and 10 shots into 8.00" at 1038 yards.
The issues of 300 Win Mag short neck, its belt, how it compares with other 300's in its class, factory action totally 'unsmithed', 1:11 twist, yada yada.
Practice your shooting and handloading skills at 330 yards and your wind reading skills at 1 000 yards.
< 1/2 moa at 5 shot groups and < 1 moa 10 shot groups will get you in the mix at most competitions.
With the 300's you will burn 1/2 to 2/3rds of a pound of powder per session, with a 6mm or 6.5 you will burn half that or less.
The one I have , with a 16X top end on scope, is quite capable of 5 shots in 4.00" and 10 shots into 8.00" at 1038 yards.
The issues of 300 Win Mag short neck, its belt, how it compares with other 300's in its class, factory action totally 'unsmithed', 1:11 twist, yada yada.
Practice your shooting and handloading skills at 330 yards and your wind reading skills at 1 000 yards.
< 1/2 moa at 5 shot groups and < 1 moa 10 shot groups will get you in the mix at most competitions.
With the 300's you will burn 1/2 to 2/3rds of a pound of powder per session, with a 6mm or 6.5 you will burn half that or less.
Of the OP's original options, I would choose the 7 SAUM. - dan
Yeah, I don't disagree. Ultralight magnums are just unpleasant to shoot and honestly totally unnecessary for the ranges most guys who have them will shoot at (because they don't practice much cause their rifles are just unpleasant to shoot). I remember shooting some guy's 7lbs .300 RUM at the range cause he was doing load dev and getting terrible accuracy and wanted to know if it was him or the rifle (it was him) and after 3rds I was more than done with that gun, haha.
6.5 PRC is actually a really good call, plenty of energy to 700yds, mild recoil and good factory ammo available. In my mind, it's really a balancing act between recoil and weight (to mitigate said recoil). A guy could get away with a lighter weight 6.5 PRC than .300PRC and still have a very "shootable" rifle, probably the better call for the OP's application.
Lightweight magnums are a recipe for developing bad shooting fundamentals. As you state, not very pleasant to shoot.
The 6.5 PRC is very pleasant to shoot, even in a light weight configuration, and is a very capable cartridge. A friend of mine wanted to get into shooting and possibly hunting wanted a light weight 7mm magnum or similar, I steered him towards the 6.5 PRC. He ended up with a Tikka in 6.5 PRC, and it's a very ballistically capable rifle that's pleasant to shoot. I just think magnums are really overkill for most people's situations/uses.
Even though I have shot a lot, if I got into hunting (which is something that I want to do), I would personally get a 6.5 PRC, or a 6mm Creedmoor if I was predominantly shooting deer. I've shot enough to be comfortable with my capabilities of my shot placement, and I recognize that a magnum is overkill for most North American game.
My hunting partner owns a 6.5prc x bolt I've personally witnessed a rutting mule deer take 2 pills in the vitals at 250. Did not drop for another 200. Every 30 cal I've seen take an animal has been a stopper. I know from experience hydrostatic shock if it does not drop the animal will definatley slow enough for a 2nd shot. Hard to over kill an animal. My main goal is harvesting an animal in less then ideal conditions(across a drainage, close to thick brush 400 yards away etc). Too many variables that cannot be controlled when hunting. At least this is what I've experienced. The magnum 30 cals seem to do a good job at reducing the variable with horsepower. Also this will be used when I'm mostly in grizzly country feels a little less unnerving. I'm sure many have great results hunting with the 6.5prc. I have shot them in 143 and they are very soft on the shoulder compared to the 270 with 145 that said would like to own one at some point though.I know this is a pretty heated topic on these forums and I appreciate the inputs. From what I'm hearing I maybe shouldn't go so "ultra" lightweight. Thinking about grabbing the tikka in 7rm dropping it in a chassis and learning to reload it as I have access to all the 7rm reloading equipment. Build up some longer range skills and when rebarelling consider going to the saum or wsm or maybe even 300prc in a 24" since the hnt has a folder. One consideration here is the factory ammo as the 300wsm is pretty available.
I have even witnessed at 200 yards, a mule deer doe take two 7mm Rem Mag rounds (160's) and still not instant kill, it did not go far but sometimes things just happen. My 270 Win with 130's, at 75 yards on a mule buck, it did not instant die but made it 15 yards. With my 6.5 CM, one mule at 150, was down right away, the other at 200 was not instant killed but very close to it, walked about 2 steps. The 30's may have the larger surface area to deliver the energy into the animal better than a 6 or 6.5mm, but the 6mm has speed, and the 6.5 can have speed ( PRC ) but I feel they penetrate good, and dead is dead. I doubt I will use my 270 for deer again, eventually set it up with Barnes bullets and larger game. I would like to have a 6.8 Western, if it becomes mainstream.
Poor shot placement is going to end with poor results, no matter the caliber.
If you think you need a big magnum to drop North American game (not speaking to you directly), then you may need to work on your shooting...
