- Location
- Fraser Valley, B.C.
Hello All.
I have decided to document my progress as I go along with my new switch barrel rifle. I read about the concept and preferred the idea of multiple barrels and one action.
I started with a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 PRC. I spent the last few weeks/months cruising around the web in search of barrels. My Original intention was to get two more barrels 300 RCM and 338 RCM as the case is practically identical to each other and would feed reliably from the magazine while giving me 3 great calibers to choose from.
In the meantime I picked up a few stainless lite barrels on the cheap just to try it.
Currently in my stash I have:
1. 300 WSM Stainless Lite
2. 270 WSM Stainless Lite
3. 300 Win Mag Blued
4. 6.5x55 Swede Varmint Contour Stainless Lite (Waiting on a left hand bolt)
5. 6.5 PRC - Factory CTR semi heavy Barrel
Last night I finally got around to making an attempt at removing the factory barrel by myself. After doing allot of research and sorting out what would be the best method to attempt this.
Tools I used are as follows:
1. Viper Barrel Vise
2. Internal Action Wrench (PR Precision on CGN)
3. 31mm open end wrench
4. Drywallers tape
5. Torque Wrench
6. Rubber Mallet
7. Electrical Tape
Prior to mounting the barrel in the barrel vise I put some drywallers tape in to avoid any damage. I then proceeded to put the barrel in as close to the action as possible and tightened it down. I then used electrical tape on the sides of the action to add a hair of thickness. (I measure it at 30.5mm) so the 31mm was the only one that fit (I tried a 1-3/16 but it would fit on.) The tape also protected the action.
Then I proceeded to install the internal action wrench adding just shy of 100lbs onto the torque wrench and while applying force to it I used the rubber mallet to tape the open end wrench and once I gave it a few good smacks with the hammer it broke free and spun right off.
Then I proceeded to install the 300 WSM stainless lite barrel. (Just to try) once installed snug (I didn't have any grease or lube so I didn't want to torque.) I proceeded to insert the No Go Gauge and as supposed to happen the bolt would not close. I then removed the No GO and put the Go gauge in which them cycled flawlessly.
Currently I am into it for less than two rifles and have 3 calibers to shoot without anymore modifications required.
I do plan to add some photos when I get the chance. In the next week or so I will be taking the rifle to the range to confirm that the 300 WSM Barrel works without issue 100%
Hopefully this helps some people along the way.
Disclaimer I am not a gunsmith and don't claim to be one. This is just a review of how I did my own work I highly recommend talking to a gunsmith prior to doing anything.
Cheers,
B
I have decided to document my progress as I go along with my new switch barrel rifle. I read about the concept and preferred the idea of multiple barrels and one action.
I started with a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 PRC. I spent the last few weeks/months cruising around the web in search of barrels. My Original intention was to get two more barrels 300 RCM and 338 RCM as the case is practically identical to each other and would feed reliably from the magazine while giving me 3 great calibers to choose from.
In the meantime I picked up a few stainless lite barrels on the cheap just to try it.
Currently in my stash I have:
1. 300 WSM Stainless Lite
2. 270 WSM Stainless Lite
3. 300 Win Mag Blued
4. 6.5x55 Swede Varmint Contour Stainless Lite (Waiting on a left hand bolt)
5. 6.5 PRC - Factory CTR semi heavy Barrel
Last night I finally got around to making an attempt at removing the factory barrel by myself. After doing allot of research and sorting out what would be the best method to attempt this.
Tools I used are as follows:
1. Viper Barrel Vise
2. Internal Action Wrench (PR Precision on CGN)
3. 31mm open end wrench
4. Drywallers tape
5. Torque Wrench
6. Rubber Mallet
7. Electrical Tape
Prior to mounting the barrel in the barrel vise I put some drywallers tape in to avoid any damage. I then proceeded to put the barrel in as close to the action as possible and tightened it down. I then used electrical tape on the sides of the action to add a hair of thickness. (I measure it at 30.5mm) so the 31mm was the only one that fit (I tried a 1-3/16 but it would fit on.) The tape also protected the action.
Then I proceeded to install the internal action wrench adding just shy of 100lbs onto the torque wrench and while applying force to it I used the rubber mallet to tape the open end wrench and once I gave it a few good smacks with the hammer it broke free and spun right off.
Then I proceeded to install the 300 WSM stainless lite barrel. (Just to try) once installed snug (I didn't have any grease or lube so I didn't want to torque.) I proceeded to insert the No Go Gauge and as supposed to happen the bolt would not close. I then removed the No GO and put the Go gauge in which them cycled flawlessly.
Currently I am into it for less than two rifles and have 3 calibers to shoot without anymore modifications required.
I do plan to add some photos when I get the chance. In the next week or so I will be taking the rifle to the range to confirm that the 300 WSM Barrel works without issue 100%
Hopefully this helps some people along the way.
Disclaimer I am not a gunsmith and don't claim to be one. This is just a review of how I did my own work I highly recommend talking to a gunsmith prior to doing anything.
Cheers,
B
RJ
