Tikka T3 Bolt problems

And FFS. The ONLY plastic parts on it is a plastic bolt SHROUD (AKA the end of the bolt, nowhere near the action & doesn't matter/do anything for protection if it is a hot round. The plastic mag is as durable as they come, and the trigger guard is the only thing I can complain about.

But for accuracy, they shoot better out of the box then anything in the market. Plus, with the recent 100$ price reduction there is nothing else that is better on the market for the price.

It's a rifle thats meant to be abused. It's not a nice Weatherby or Winchester, with these super grade stocks. I couldn't hunt the way I hunt now with those rifles. The value would depreciate way too much. I love my Tikka for what it is: an accurate machine, ability to ride with the worse of weather (Especially with the stainless models) and still come out begging for more.

The accuracy of this gun surprises me each time I shoot it. Much more then what I can say with a bedded & new trigger 700.

sure, the 700 has a metal trigger guard.... big &^@$^@&^ deal! I hunt, I don't baby my rifle. That's why I prefer my Tikka over the 700s.

Now Ruger... there is a rifle I could see myself buying. especially getting it rebarreled to 338-06, but thats a project for later.
 
guido said:
There is PLASTIC parts on a tikka bolt!! I guess I won't be buying a tikka any time soon
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But when it shoots moa out of the box... I think I am quite okay with a bit of polymer. I am curious as to how many people would look down on plastic on a rifle but happily agree that a Glock is a fine pistol....
 
the_big_mike said:
But for accuracy, they shoot better out of the box then anything in the market.
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Wow, thats a pretty bold statement. There are many rifles out there that shoot MOA out of the box, the Tikka is nothing special. Cripes, I have seen a Stevens 200 out shoot a Tikka out of the box, both with factory ammo.

And yes, I have shot many Tikkas...
 
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I see: those new M98's clones are giving you blokes a bit of a headache? No worries mate: there's nothing wrong with your Tikka and there's certainly no need to unscrew the shroud-cap of your bolt. This is a natural occurance of all M98-clones that lack a 2/3 position safety who locks in the firing-pin assembly and we've got customers coming in on a regular basis with simmillar problems. *Here's a usefull tip for those of you who don't have the proper cocking-piece tool: you've accidently twisted your bolt-shroud, after pulling the bolt out of the receiver (for cleaning &/or bore-inspection purposes) and the cocking-piece has slid into the bolt-notch/recesse-cut, by the way wich is the bolt/bolt-shrouds natural 'fired' position; the only proper way is to twist it back a 1/4 turn clockwise into the cocked position. If you lack the manual 'handpower' to twist it back, then there is an easier way. Tie yourself a thin steel/iron-wire loop to something solid; for instance your bench-vice, take the bolt in your hand with the shroud facing towards the loop & the cocking piece facing-up (some do it facing down, but that way you can't see what you're doing) & hook your cocking-piece into the wire-loop, pull back & twist the shroud 1/4 turn clockwise at the same time: done! *Note; this is an easy exercise with cocking-pieces who have a straight-angled engagement surface, but some cocking-pieces have angled angagements and you will have to push down with force onto the wire with your thumb to prevent the wire from slipping off the cocking-pieces engagement surface! *The easier way is then to clamp the bottom of cocking-piece into the far-end of your bench-vise jaws (preferably soft-jaws) and repeat the same exercise. Care has to be taken not to overtighten the jaws and not to use the hardened jaws on the cocking-piece without a soft metall protection in between such as alum./brass/copper shimmes or plates to prevent damage! Hopes this helps you blokes from taking that trip to your local smithy every time this happens?
 
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