Tikka T3 scoped yesterday by Grouse River, but worried

Hitzy said:
Exactly, and it's not rocket surgery....
Every gun owner should be able to do some basic mechanical things with their guns, or try and find a new hobby.
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I agree with this, with the caveat that it's more worthwhile to learn than to quit.
 
The only way to make sure the scope is not canted is to shoot at a plumb line.
Without that, the levels are pretty much useless.
After that, the levels are quite useful.
 
I used to use a plumb line. This will let the scope be plumb when the rifle is mounted to your shoulder, and is very useful for long-range shooting. It will not guarantee that the scope is square to the rifle.

That may or may not be important to you.

A 2 level system makes sure that the scope and rifle are square to each other and level, within the tolerance of the bubbles, and your eye.

Wheeler's levels are nowhere near as precise as a good carpenter's level though.
 
stubblejumper said:
I would never let someone mount a scope for me to use. Even if they did a perfect job of aligning the crosshairs, and torquing the fasteners, without the shooter present, they have no way of setting the optimum eye relief for the shooter.
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I certainly agree with you, but there are many guys out there that should leave the job to someone else :)
 
Silverado said:
I used to use a plumb line. This will let the scope be plumb when the rifle is mounted to your shoulder, and is very useful for long-range shooting. It will not guarantee that the scope is square to the rifle.

That may or may not be important to you.

A 2 level system makes sure that the scope and rifle are square to each other and level, within the tolerance of the bubbles, and your eye.

Wheeler's levels are nowhere near as precise as a good carpenter's level though.
Click to expand...

what's the point to have the scope square to the rifle (or perhaps action) if that is not square when shooting?
canted scopes in relation to the bore axis produce points of impact to either the left or right of the aim point as distance varies.
 
Your shoulder socket is nowhere near square to anything. You can mount a reticle square to the action, or you can mount it plumb to how you mount the rifle.

Both have advantages. A plumb reticle is important for long range shooting; that's why many LR shooters use a level mounted on the rifle. In that case, having the reticle and action square is critical.

In common hunting applications, the advantage is small, but favours mounting the scope so the reticle is plumb when the gun is mounted to the shooter's shoulder. Here a plumb line works, if the shooter can mount the rifle consistently.
 
legi0n said:
what's the point to have the scope square to the rifle (or perhaps action) if that is not square when shooting?
canted scopes in relation to the bore axis produce points of impact to either the left or right of the aim point as distance varies.
Click to expand...

If you mount the crosshairs in alignment with the action, it makes it easier to hold the rifle and scope vertically, as they to be for precision shooting at longer ranges. If you hold the rifle cocked, you will have horizontal error at all ranges except where the scope is zeroed.
 
On the cheap pick up a Wheeler inch lb screw driver ,loosen off the rings set eye relief and leveled to your liking. I too mount my own scopes it's no rocket science.
 
Hitzy said:
Exactly, and it's not rocket surgery....
Every gun owner should be able to do some basic mechanical things with their guns, or try and find a new hobby.
Click to expand...

I've seen some abominations over the years...

Most recently was a customer who bought a used rifle, the scope was mounted with see through rings, which wouldn't be my recommendation to begin with, but in addition to that, the front and back rings were different makes and heights. The customer was somewhat relieved when I told him how the previous owner had mounted the scope, and the fact that he couldn't zero it wasn't his fault.

So I'd take the opposite stance... If you aren't an avid gun owner, take it to professionals and let them mount the scope with what they feel does the job best.
 
Using feeler gauges to square the receiver to the flat side of the scope is another option sooner than using levels.
 
Jonty said:
Using feeler gauges to square the receiver to the flat side of the scope is another option sooner than using levels.
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This only works if the reticle has been mounted perfectly plumb in the scope body. You would be surprised how often this is not the case. Phil.
 
The scope height appears to be correct, this idea of mounting a scope as low as possible is an (old mans-wives tail), it depends on the contour of the rifle stock. The test is as stated bring the rifle to shooting position and open your eyes, if your close to center of the scope, you're good to go.
 
The only way to be sure the scope is not canted, would be to use a scope leveling aid. Simple, bubba way would be to place the rifle in a padded vice, use a small level on the bases....tighten. Then mount the scope and use a level on top of the adjustment cap. Course one could trust one of the premier firearms dealers in Canada as a alternative?

Much the same way that someone can place a rifle in a vice...look at a object through the bore, with the bolt removed...then adjust the scope to the same object. Red necked bore sighting.

Scope being as close to the bore is for two reasons. To aid in bore sighting, and to keep the shooter as close to the axis of straight recoil to lessen that.
 
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I have a fool proof way to make sure my scope is mounted level in the rings. Using a spuhr mount with built in 10degree slot and provided cant tooth. Makes installing your scope fool proof! Yes it costs 450 but boy is it ever worth it for highend glass.
 
Put your coat on and close your eyes .then mount your gun to your shoulder .when you open your eye you will know if the scope is lined up for you and the way you hold your gun. ..Dutch
 
Thanks for all the replies people!

I decided to let my friend's dad take a look at it first before I took it back to the store because he's probably been hunting for close to 4 decades and he would probably "know". If he said "naw, this is great." then I probably would have just left it. Thankfully, he asked me "What do you think is wrong with it?" *after* he looked through it, meaning I didn't give him biased information. After I told him it looks a slight bit counter clockwise twisted, he said "I think I'd have to agree with you. It's slight, but it is there."

So I ended up going back the next day with him to Grouse River and we asked a guy to modify it. He didn't seem all that keen to do it, probably because he ended up getting stuck with that job as he was the first person to ask me if I needed help. But, in the end, he said he did notice it too and that it was extremely slight and if I wanted it to done. I said yes, because if I see that on a brand new rifle and scope that cost me a fair chunk of change, it's going to annoy me slightly everytime I go hunting with it. He did the adjustment and when I look through it now, I don't notice it anymore. So go figure.

In the end, I think I will try following some people's advice here and consider mounting a scope my .22 Mossberg plinkster by myself, using one of those 40+ dollar kits that can level it for you, perhaps.

Appreciate all the responses.
 
Sometimes it helps to bring the rifle up with your non shooting shoulder.
Let your other eye have a gander.

Just did the read on this EXD Engineering.
So simple it hurts.
Anyone up here bring these in?

Group buy anyone?
 
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