Tikka T3 stiff bolt

T

tomapleleafss

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I have a 308 Tikka T3 and when I load a cartridge there seems to be a some resistance when closing the bolt and opening it as well. I don't have to put my weight into it, but there is defiantly a noticeably difference from my Ruger Precision. I thought that was how they are (which still could be) but I got thinking maybe not. The bolt slides with no problem. With no cartridge it is defiantly easier to open and close. If I dry fire then the bolt handle is stiff to open again. I have tried factory ammo, and I am just starting to get into reloading, so I tried some fl sized brass and the re-sized brass had a bit more stiffness in it. I used a COAL of 2.810" which is far from the lands at 2.900" (2.810 is the max that will fit in my magazine). I am taking it out today to see how stiff it is after firing (just the factory ammo).
 
EDIT: Deleted first response as I misread your OP.

Sounds like the headspace could be a little tight or perhaps your resized brass is not sized far enough towards the base.
 
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So I took it today and tried it out. I was using Federal Fusion and didn't seem to have much of an issue. Perhaps a bit sticky but noticeably less than my resized and Horandy. Perhaps when the cases are fire formed or full sized they are a bit tight. I have a Lee collect neck die coming in, so maybe when I resize with that it will fix the problem. I'll take it again on the weekend and shoot a few Horandys and some reloaded stuff thru it and see how works. It defiantly feels like an ammo problem. And no, never took apart the mag at all.
 
Have two T3X stainless CTR's in 308 here. Both had a slight resistance when closing the bolt on factory 168btp Hornady match ammo. After about 100 rounds it eased off and all is good. Both rifles seemed to have the same chambers (from the feel) and shoot the same accuracy with the 168bthp.
edi
 
OK I had a wood stock and I over tightened the screw it compressed the wood and I had similar bolt issues along with magazine issues. Now it sits in a B&C stock
 
Opening the bolt after dry firing or live firing will require more effort due to the fact that you are cocking the action when you lift the bolt handle.
 
I have the same issue with my girlfriends Tikka T3 .308.

I just got it, and have only put a box of blue federal down it, but when chambering a round, the bolt is hard to rotate and lock the lugs like you described. Extracting is a bit stiff as well, but part of that is cocking the hammer.

Once I get some reloads in it I'll see how it is. Might need to check the headspace on the rifle and see if it's a bit tight.
 
The bullet is getting just a little more crimp pressure than it should have - maybe. The COL of your reloads are short enough, but the case might be squashed fat - just a little - at the shoulder.

Screw the seating die out a half and then the seater down to suit - that's my thought.


If the locking lugs have been shot dry, they can gall - stainless is especially bad for galling - and will work smooth until fired - then will be really hard to open. Honing and then polishing the lugs won't help, because both mating surfaces will be rough - as soon as the next shot is fired, the polished lugs are rough again. A little molybdenum grease on the lugs will prevent that ever happening. It really doesn't sound like this is your problem though it might be Diabetics trouble.
 
I thought about taking the lugs apart but there is very little on the internet on how to do it. I did find a couple of threads, but no videos. They mentioned a very small spring that goes flying if your not careful. I really didn't want to start something I couldn't finish.
 
Just a second - and I'll look at a Tikka... Those lugs on the bolt are wide open - no need to take anything apart to grease it. I use just a little dab of Moly grease on them. I have a tube of it from.... cv joints - yeah - that's where it came from.

Moly grease is really good for very high pressure applications - and those Tikka lugs are smaller than most so the surface area which takes the pressure during firing is nearly as much force per square inch as a woman's high heel.

If the locking surfaces on the barrel get boogered up - that is out of my comfort zone. Anyone else have a solution?

.......... but crimping or attempting to crimp in the seating die may be the trouble in your case Tom.
 
I think you guys are making a mountain out of a mole-hill. The OP stated that resized brass was harder to chamber than factory loads. There are several reasons why this may be:

1) Insufficient resizing (case shoulder is tight in chamber) Remedy - screw sizing die down 1/8 turn more, check bare case for fit
2) Base of resized cases are slightly oversize - a common problem if case has been originally fired in another rifle with a larger chamber. Remedy- not an easy fix, but if the round chambers, just shoot it. The firing will likely remedy the problem after the next resize.
3) Case needs trimming...

In the end, having cases that are snug in the chamber is not a bad situation if the cause is 1) and 2) - this is what target shooters strive to attain. 3) is bad news as it can cause the bullet to bind. FWIW - I doubt you have a problem with the lugs, but it should be SOP to lightly paint the leading edges with grease every year or two...
 
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