Tikka T3?

ok, I can go to either a tikka t3 lite in 243 blued or a t3 varmit in 22-250 stainless with a $250 difference. Which way do I want to go? I'm not walking a lot hunting, so the weight doesn't bother me. I just find the t3 light ...too small and light....
 
I have both and love them both dearly but for different applications. If you plan on doing more long range, sitting, stand, heater-hunting without putting on big miles over rugged country the Varmint gets the vote. Just the fact that it is more stable due to its weight will provide more consistent accuracy.

Those are two pretty different calibers you're looking at....will it be used mainly for varmints?...the 250 can be pretty sketchy on anything bigger than coyotes.
 
My point was that the Heavy Barrel Varmint Tikka T-3 was nothing special, and no where near a falling block single shot in a supposedly not as accurate cartridge. I sell cast bullets and won't sell anything that I haven't tested or been a part of testing, so i strive for the utmost in accuracy. Anyone can load up some jacketed bullets and shoot good groups, it's a no brainer, but try doing it with bullets you have made from square one, then we'll talk!
Back to the original post, I'd take a heavy barrel Rem. 700 or Savage over the Tikka any day based on my experience.
If someone thinks that using cast bullets is "nonsense" in a .22 cf., then I have to assume they are very early on in their learning curve and don't have the necessary savy to make it work for them, or they don't get enough shooting in to know the difference.
 
Well, this:
tikka t3 lite in 243 blued

Just followed me home last week. :cool:


I had one prior to this, also a syn/blued model in .338 Federal. Other then the fact that cartridge in that rifle with that hockey puck of a pad kicked the snot out of me, it was quite accurate. I don't recall what the exact numbers were but I was most impressed. I'm looking foward to finding a couple good loads for this one as I have high hopes.
 
the 22-250 is what's in stock for the varmit rifle. I can only get the 243 in the lite.

I will mostly go only as big coyote, but I may be lucky enough to go for wolf once and a while.
 
Ok, these are some targets from my Tikka as I was playing with different loads. (bottom row) The target second from the right showed three shots good and tight, but the other two wandered. That's the load I worked with after that and more often then not three shots were good then as she heated up the last two wandered. (The center two targets were used to dial in the scope)
DSCI0294-1.jpg


As an interesting note, you'll notice the groups on the bottom row move up. That's one grain incriments of powder.
 
If someone thinks that using cast bullets is "nonsense" in a .22 cf., then I have to assume they are very early on in their learning curve and don't have the necessary savy to make it work for them, or they don't get enough shooting in to know the difference.

Since most .22cf are capable 2-3 even 400 yd varminters, hows your cast bullets make out at that distance.
Do you have to aim straight up :D
 
My point was that the Heavy Barrel Varmint Tikka T-3 was nothing special, and no where near a falling block single shot in a supposedly not as accurate cartridge. I sell cast bullets and won't sell anything that I haven't tested or been a part of testing, so i strive for the utmost in accuracy. Anyone can load up some jacketed bullets and shoot good groups, it's a no brainer, but try doing it with bullets you have made from square one, then we'll talk!
Back to the original post, I'd take a heavy barrel Rem. 700 or Savage over the Tikka any day based on my experience.
If someone thinks that using cast bullets is "nonsense" in a .22 cf., then I have to assume they are very early on in their learning curve and don't have the necessary savy to make it work for them, or they don't get enough shooting in to know the difference.

Turning a .22 cf into a useless paper puncher with lead slugs is not part of a learning curve, it's somethiing to do after you have gone around the "bend".

To be realistic, how many centerfire 22s will ever be shot with cast bullets?
1 in 10,000.....:rolleyes:
 
the 22-250 is what's in stock for the varmit rifle. I can only get the 243 in the lite.

I will mostly go only as big coyote, but I may be lucky enough to go for wolf once and a while.

If I was buying one for a little varminting & some coyote-wolf hunting, the 243 Lite is the way I'd go, also a capable deer cartridge.

If paper & varmint is your main game, the by all means HB 22-250.

IMHO of course :)
 
Just ordered the Tikka t3 light in .243. Now to figure out my scope options. Pretty sure I'm going redfield, now just need to figure out size. 2-9 in the 40 or 50.... or 4-12 power. I've got a 3-9 on my .300 but I always wondered what the 4-12 would be like as I've never used one.

Oh, the decision making .... what a tuff life.
 
I had the T3 Varmint with SS barrel in .223, traded it for an AR. I regret trading that beautiful rifle although the AR is so worth it!! I just want them both hahaha It is a real tack driver right out of the box! You won't find a smoother bolt plus the detachable magazines are awesome, even though they are plastic... You won't regret it no matter what tikka you get though :D
 
If they didn't shoot I wouldn't have 4 of them..oh I use a bingo dabber for a targets, that way I don't need to bring paper or a stapler.
Ben next time you need someone to teach you how to shoot, bring the SAUM and I will make it sing..:D

P1000119.jpg


P1000120.jpg
 
Turning a .22 cf into a useless paper puncher with lead slugs is not part of a learning curve, it's somethiing to do after you have gone around the "bend".

To be realistic, how many centerfire 22s will ever be shot with cast bullets?
1 in 10,000.....:rolleyes:

F.F.S .22lr bulk packs are plated with copper for a reason. Take a step back back from the smelting pot.f:P:
 
Jealousy will get you no where, most don't shoot cast in the .22 because they don't know how, and are not capable, just have a general lack of knowledge. The use of cast to 200yds. on our gophers is a great way to spend a day, firing a couple hundred rounds a day, with little or no barrel wear, at a cost close to the .22 LR, with more precision the HMR may appeal to some. I have access to miles of gopher gardens, and shoot off a bench rest mounted on the back of a pickup truck....also .22 bulk packs are copper plated because they are not Lapua, Eley, RWS, oh sorry they are lead.
 
Jealousy will get you no where, most don't shoot cast in the .22 because they don't know how, and are not capable, just a have a general lack of knowledge.

Correct me if I am wrong here, but as you decrease calibre the difficulty of making a high quality cast bullet increases, doesn't it? Which would mean it takes more skill to make an accurate cast .22 cal bullet than a cast .30 cal bullet.
 
I have a left handed stainless T-3 in 25-06 that I will be dumping when I can find a suitable replacement, and it won't be a Savage. I want a well made rifle withoiy a lot of plastic and bent pieces of stamped tin. Remington would be perfect if they made a left handed CDL but I may have to take the Ruger even though it is a lot heavied and the lc6 trigger is not that great.
 
1899 you are absolutely correct, as cal. size goes down, it gets much trickier to get accuracy out of cast bullets. I think that it is a result of the small inconsistencies in bullets, that are greatly magnified when working with the .22 cast bullets. I sort into lots, 1/10 of a grain lots, this has always served me well for the .30 cal., but I'm thinking that I may have to index bullets and loads through the whole process, until they're out the end of the barrel!!
I didn't want to hijack this thread, I started out to say that my experience wasn't that great with the Tikka, from an accuracy standpoint and the problems with loading and access have been thrown about before. The poster above that is looking for a rifle may want to look at the CZ line of solid made guns.
 
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