Tikka T3x Hunter Break in !

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Leavenworth

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Okay so in the other 2 threads concerning this rifle You helped cover the choice of the Tikka T3x
He choose the Tikka T3x Hunter

Now what about rifle break in as I’m not sure what Tikka recommends if they do so in the owners manual ?

If you could take the time to list the sequence in point form that would be greatly appreciated !

Also what products do you use ie. cleaning.

Thank You Very Much !
Leavenworth
 
Clean the bore before you shoot it, I use Patch-Out solvent on a cotton patch, pushed through the bore with the proper caliber stainless jag on a Tipton carbon rod.

Usually after first range trip (20 rounds +/- fired) I will clean the bore again. After that, I clean every 200 rounds (Patchout in bore for 30 mins then dry patch). I will sometimes remove carbon fouling every 50-100 rounds with Carb-Out
 
Thank You Todd Bartell ! Now if switching different ammo to see which groups best before the 20 rounds do you clean between ? Then do you clean between shooting different ammo to see what groups best and what is the procedure ?
Leavenworth
todbartell said:
Clean the bore before you shoot it, I use Patch-Out solvent on a cotton patch, pushed through the bore with the proper caliber stainless jag on a Tipton carbon rod.

Usually after first range trip (20 rounds +/- fired) I will clean the bore again. After that, I clean every 200 rounds (Patchout in bore for 30 mins then dry patch). I will sometimes remove carbon fouling every 50-100 rounds with Carb-Out
Click to expand...
 
In case of hunting rifles, it is best practice to always follow a cleaning regimen such as cited above.

Majority of the guys in my group own Tikka T3 rifles but most don't follow or even bother with that kind of discipline. :)

If memory serves, one Tikka, a 30-06 purchased somewhere in 2004 by a group member was used to take one Moose and since then it had sat in a safe, used less than a box of ammo afterwards at the range and had remained in an unmaintained state till it changed hands last month. The bore was only cleaned prior to the range trip to check zero and it shot under an inch @ 100 yds (S&B 150gr soft point) by a young guy who never shot a CF rifle but has plenty of practice shooting an air rifle.
 
Leavenworth said:
Thank You Todd Bartell ! Now if switching different ammo to see which groups best before the 20 rounds do you clean between ? Then do you clean between shooting different ammo to see what groups best and what is the procedure ?
Leavenworth
Click to expand...

no I don't clean between ammo types, even copper Barnes vs traditional jacket types
 
Interesting !
Leavenworth
Ahsan Ahmed said:
In case of hunting rifles, it is best practice to always follow a cleaning regimen such as cited above.

Majority of the guys in my group own Tikka T3 rifles but most don't follow or even bother with that kind of discipline. :)

If memory serves, one Tikka, a 30-06 purchased somewhere in 2004 by a group member was used to take one Moose and since then it had sat in a safe, used less than a box of ammo afterwards at the range and had remained in an unmaintained state till it changed hands last month. The bore was only cleaned prior to the range trip to check zero and it shot under an inch @ 100 yds (S&B 150gr soft point) by a young guy who never shot a CF rifle but has plenty of practice shooting an air rifle.
Click to expand...
 
todbartell said:
no I don't clean between ammo types, even copper Barnes vs traditional jacket types
Click to expand...

I ought to try that route to reduce the cycle of maintenance - my impression has been that Barnes leaves more copper deposit. Perhaps its just my rifles (CZ550)?

With a new rifle, I always confine to a single box of 20 that involves sighting in plus some target practice. Then clean with a nylon brush.

Afterwards, usually, I use a nylon brush to clean after every 50 rounds. Use a bronze after every 150 rds. OTIS bore solvents. Dewey one piece coated rods.
 
New Sakos shoot great straight out of the box....I’m not kidding.You really don’t have to do anything.Then after sighting, just regular cleaning and maintenance.
 
Todd Bartell. Do you not use ant brushes in this procedure ? If so bronze or nylon ?
Thank You
Leavenworth
todbartell said:
Clean the bore before you shoot it, I use Patch-Out solvent on a cotton patch, pushed through the bore with the proper caliber stainless jag on a Tipton carbon rod.

Usually after first range trip (20 rounds +/- fired) I will clean the bore again. After that, I clean every 200 rounds (Patchout in bore for 30 mins then dry patch). I will sometimes remove carbon fouling every 50-100 rounds with Carb-Out
Click to expand...
 
no brushing. With Carb-Out, I wet 3 patches with the solvent. I run them it through the bore with the caliber specific stainless jag (Tipton), then follow with a dry patch (no solvent). So I run 1 wet , 1 dry, 1 wet, 1 dry, 1 wet, and a few dry to remove all the solvent. This Carb-Out will only remove carbon fouling from the bore, I like to use it to reduce the chance of getting a "carbon ring" building up, typically in the throat of the bore. I do this every 50-100 rounds +/-

for removing jacket fouling, it's a similar routine. I use a wet patch of Wipeout accelerator on the jag, then follow it with a wet patch of PatchOut. I set a timer for 30 mins and once it rings, I dry patch the bore. Usually takes 5 or so until all the solvent is out of the bore. I do this every 200 rounds +/-

After a hunt/season, I will usually run a few dry patches down the bore to get rid of any dust etc that might be in there. I hunt with the muzzle taped with electrical tape, so usually nothing will be in there anyway
 
todbartell said:
no brushing. With Carb-Out, I wet 3 patches with the solvent. I run them it through the bore with the caliber specific stainless jag (Tipton), then follow with a dry patch (no solvent). So I run 1 wet , 1 dry, 1 wet, 1 dry, 1 wet, and a few dry to remove all the solvent. This Carb-Out will only remove carbon fouling from the bore, I like to use it to reduce the chance of getting a "carbon ring" building up, typically in the throat of the bore. I do this every 50-100 rounds +/-

for removing jacket fouling, it's a similar routine. I use a wet patch of Wipeout accelerator on the jag, then follow it with a wet patch of PatchOut. I set a timer for 30 mins and once it rings, I dry patch the bore. Usually takes 5 or so until all the solvent is out of the bore. I do this every 200 rounds +/-

After a hunt/season, I will usually run a few dry patches down the bore to get rid of any dust etc that might be in there. I hunt with the muzzle taped with electrical tape, so usually nothing will be in there anyway
Click to expand...

My cleaning routine is similar to Mark's, except for copper, I use Bore-Tech solvent, which I find works well for me.
If I buy a rifle that is heavily copper-fouled, then I initially use KG-12, the best copper remover I have seen so far,
and it does not stink like ammonia. I also tape my muzzle with electrical tape while hunting. Dave.
 
Thank you for the details ! I know you have mentioned that you do not use a brush BUT if one was to use a brush am I correct that you do not push it out of the muzzle end or can you do that ?
Arctic Lake
todbartell said:
no brushing. With Carb-Out, I wet 3 patches with the solvent. I run them it through the bore with the caliber specific stainless jag (Tipton), then follow with a dry patch (no solvent). So I run 1 wet , 1 dry, 1 wet, 1 dry, 1 wet, and a few dry to remove all the solvent. This Carb-Out will only remove carbon fouling from the bore, I like to use it to reduce the chance of getting a "carbon ring" building up, typically in the throat of the bore. I do this every 50-100 rounds +/-

for removing jacket fouling, it's a similar routine. I use a wet patch of Wipeout accelerator on the jag, then follow it with a wet patch of PatchOut. I set a timer for 30 mins and once it rings, I dry patch the bore. Usually takes 5 or so until all the solvent is out of the bore. I do this every 200 rounds +/-

After a hunt/season, I will usually run a few dry patches down the bore to get rid of any dust etc that might be in there. I hunt with the muzzle taped with electrical tape, so usually nothing will be in there anyway
Click to expand...
 
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I keep it simple.

Bore snake with CLP to clean out the barrel from the factory. Then I run the snake through after every shot for the first 20 sight-in rounds. The next 20 will be 3-shot groups, running the snake through after each group. Let the barrel cool between shots/groups and it should be fine. Might take a couple of outings depending on ambient temperature.

My usual cleaning routine is spraying down the metalwork with OneShot after being in the field all day and letting it air dry. Wood stocks get an oily rag. If I take a shot or two, bore snake. That's it. Dead simple.
 
Thank You what is CLP ?
mikeyb said:
I keep it simple.

Bore snake with CLP to clean out the barrel from the factory. Then I run the snake through after every shot for the first 20 sight-in rounds. The next 20 will be 3-shot groups, running the snake through after each group. Let the barrel cool between shots/groups and it should be fine. Might take a couple of outings depending on ambient temperature.

My usual cleaning routine is spraying down the metalwork with OneShot after being in the field all day and letting it air dry. Wood stocks get an oily rag. If I take a shot or two, bore snake. That's it. Dead simple.
Click to expand...
 
Leavenworth said:
Thank You what is CLP ?
Click to expand...

It's a blended cleaning product which has a solvent in an oil base. You apply it to the bore snake fabric and draw through, the solvent will remove the powder residue and when it evaporates it'll leave behind a protective layer. "Clean, Lubricate, Protect".

I've been doing it the past few years and I've run some patches with a jag the old fashioned way as well, there's not much left to remove with patches and separate solvent and oil.
 
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