Tikka T3x reviews anyone?

Tikkas are great rifles. Agree with all the things said about them so far. One thing to add though, is the factory barrels do tend to run a bit slow. Running them over a crono they always have a lower velocity than the box states, or what most rifles get with the same powder charge. Very accurate rifles though. Just run a touch slower than most.
 
bone stock Tikka T3x @ 215 yards , two 4 shot groups at same target

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Tikkas are great rifles. Agree with all the things said about them so far. One thing to add though, is the factory barrels do tend to run a bit slow. Running them over a crono they always have a lower velocity than the box states, or what most rifles get with the same powder charge. Very accurate rifles though. Just run a touch slower than most.
Simple solution is to hand load and increase powder charge until you get published velocities or pressure signs then back off a grain or two.
 
Simple solution is to hand load and increase powder charge until you get published velocities or pressure signs then back off a grain or two.
That is definitely an option. But be careful going over published max loads. I have seen tikkas hit pressure signs over max charge weight while still not hitting published velocities for the lower charge weights.

I have other rifles with 18" and 22" creedmoor barrels that easily hit 2750-2850fps with 140 grain class bullets. But have pressure signs with multiple powders with a 22" creed in a tikka.

There are quite a few people that have experienced this as well. And it hasn't only happened to me with the Creedmoor. Just something people should be aware of when trying to push loads to get to a velocity, rather than trying to just achieve the best node, at a good velocity. They may not be speed demons, but they are damn accurate, smooth, affordable rifles, that do not disappoint.
 
They really really really like putting lots of loctite on every factory screw. If you're going to be replacing anything, have high quality tight fitting screwdriver heads and maybe use some heat. Closest I've been to stripping a screw.
 
I got one, my brother got a couple, I got a couple more, another brother got a couple. They work they are smooth they are accurate. Aftermarket options are there. Congrats on a sweet gun … get the next one in a real caliber 😎
 
That is definitely an option. But be careful going over published max loads. I have seen tikkas hit pressure signs over max charge weight while still not hitting published velocities for the lower charge weights.

I have other rifles with 18" and 22" creedmoor barrels that easily hit 2750-2850fps with 140 grain class bullets. But have pressure signs with multiple powders with a 22" creed in a tikka.

There are quite a few people that have experienced this as well. And it hasn't only happened to me with the Creedmoor. Just something people should be aware of when trying to push loads to get to a velocity, rather than trying to just achieve the best node, at a good velocity. They may not be speed demons, but they are damn accurate, smooth, affordable rifles, that do not disappoint.
I own 2, both stainless laminate stocks. 6.5x55 and 30-06

Both I handload and my 6.5 Swede is well over published load data. Zero pressure signs. Flattened primers as I expect but no cratering.
The Swede is running 140gr SST's at 2800fps and getting 0.35" groups.

The 30-06 is loaded slightly below max and I see speeds about 75fps over published data using a 178gr ELD-X bullet. 165gr CX is similar.

The throat on a T3x is long so trying to load close to the lands is near impossible. No issues at all with the long jump.

I would recommend a T3x to anyone.
Only complaint I have is learn how to seat the mag properly. I did drop one on a hunt once (and did manage to find it)
 
I had a T3X in 223 it shot extremely well with original stock (added) a Dave's Trigger spring and it made an improvement over stock trigger spring. I shot it quite a bit (5 shot strings) one after another. Not surprised that the barrel looked like aligator skin the first 4-5 inches down the barrel from the throat after 2500 rounds. The action was used for a custom build (Kriger barrel and MDT Stock) it still shot well - sold the build several years ago. Overall it was good - likely my fault that the barrel was shot out in the 1st place.
I'm a newb. Have a T3X CTR 20" in 6.5 (no man bun lol). How do I prevent shooting out my barrel prematurely? Is there a length of time that I should wait between shots to let the barrel cool? I've put maybe 240 rounds through mine, but being clueless have fired all 10 in a row out of mine, with only a minute or so between them, without a thought. How much damage is it doing to the ctr barrel which is a slightly heavier profile? Is the damage something I can see happening with the naked eye if I just look for it? It seemed fine the last time I cleaned it, but I was looking for powder residue l, not barrel damage.
 
That is definitely an option. But be careful going over published max loads. I have seen tikkas hit pressure signs over max charge weight while still not hitting published velocities for the lower charge weights.

I have other rifles with 18" and 22" creedmoor barrels that easily hit 2750-2850fps with 140 grain class bullets. But have pressure signs with multiple powders with a 22" creed in a tikka.

There are quite a few people that have experienced this as well. And it hasn't only happened to me with the Creedmoor. Just something people should be aware of when trying to push loads to get to a velocity, rather than trying to just achieve the best node, at a good velocity. They may not be speed demons, but they are damn accurate, smooth, affordable rifles, that do not disappoint.
I have owned four Tikka T-3 rifles, all easily made published velocities with no pressure signs.
 
I'm a newb. Have a T3X CTR 20" in 6.5 (no man bun lol). How do I prevent shooting out my barrel prematurely? Is there a length of time that I should wait between shots to let the barrel cool? I've put maybe 240 rounds through mine, but being clueless have fired all 10 in a row out of mine, with only a minute or so between them, without a thought. How much damage is it doing to the ctr barrel which is a slightly heavier profile? Is the damage something I can see happening with the naked eye if I just look for it? It seemed fine the last time I cleaned it, but I was looking for powder residue l, not barrel damage.
The only way to tell how much you need to clean or how much "damage " is done is
A: using a bore scope to check for throat damage and fouling in the barrel.
B: shoot it and let the barrel cool in between shots , and clean it properly after each range use.
I have to ask, just how much shooting and what kind of shooting are you doing?
The average hunting rifle will never get worn out to the point that it will not kill a deer at 300 meters or so, but a match rifle can get worn out to where it will not be competitive .
Cat
 
I'm a newb. Have a T3X CTR 20" in 6.5 (no man bun lol). How do I prevent shooting out my barrel prematurely? Is there a length of time that I should wait between shots to let the barrel cool? I've put maybe 240 rounds through mine, but being clueless have fired all 10 in a row out of mine, with only a minute or so between them, without a thought. How much damage is it doing to the ctr barrel which is a slightly heavier profile? Is the damage something I can see happening with the naked eye if I just look for it? It seemed fine the last time I cleaned it, but I was looking for powder residue l, not barrel damage.
Yes
Fire a couple shots then check the barrel and wait for it to cool down - these are hunting rifles and are not meant to fire round after round the bareel will heat up very quick. My barrel got so hot that water would steam off of it. However, once I installed the custom barrel it was no problem at all. Your rifle maybe a little more forgiving since the one I had was the sporter barrel.
 
I have owned four Tikka T-3 rifles, all easily made published velocities with no pressure signs.
I was talking specifically T3X. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. But it was just an observation I have found that does occur.

It doesn't always occur, but it is documented by quite a few people that their barrels do run a bit slow.

I'm not saying it's a negative thing, just something to be aware of. Maybe it's part of what makes them so accurate.

So if you do happen to get a barrel that is like that, it is something that does also happen to others.
 
I was talking specifically T3X. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. But it was just an observation I have found that does occur.

It doesn't always occur, but it is documented by quite a few people that their barrels do run a bit slow.

I'm not saying it's a negative thing, just something to be aware of. Maybe it's part of what makes them so accurate.

So if you do happen to get a barrel that is like that, it is something that does also happen to others.
Two of mine were the 3X, it makes no difference. The chambers tend to be a bit larger, which actually provides more velocity potential for handloads, although it does produce a bit less velocity in a factory load.
 
I had the CTR in 6.5 creedmoor and like it a lot.
I ended up buying a Tac A1 to do some longer range shots.
As someone had mentioned, these T3Xs deserve a much better chassis.
The gent that bought my CTR dropped it into a MDT chassis.
Won’t find a better action imho.
Butter smooth!
 
Usually my rifles are custom made or high-end, however I just recently purchsed my first Tikka, ever. It is the same as yours OP, the Tikka T3X Lite Veil Alpine, except chambered in the 7mm Remington Magnum. I cannot say anything negative about the rifle. The action is most smooth, great trigger, it's something that I would call "close to custom made."

The Alpine, with it's sage green action, barrel and muzzle brake, accompanied with the various shades of sage on the stock, compliment each other, the rifle definately has curb appeal.

I've been to the gun range a few times conducting load development, results were very pleasing for accuracy and function. I honestly believe that a person cannot go wrong purchasing a Tikka, they truly are a great rifle!
 

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The only way to tell how much you need to clean or how much "damage " is done is
A: using a bore scope to check for throat damage and fouling in the barrel.
B: shoot it and let the barrel cool in between shots , and clean it properly after each range use.
I have to ask, just how much shooting and what kind of shooting are you doing?
The average hunting rifle will never get worn out to the point that it will not kill a deer at 300 meters or so, but a match rifle can get worn out to where it will not be competitive .
Cat
Target shooting. Currently at 100yrds. Non completive for now and for the foreseeable future. Mostly, I'm shooting just for learning and self gratification. Generally, I'll put a full box of 20 through it but not much else due to costs before I move back to my smaller gun (cz457). I clean all my guns after every outing but don't bother with a borescope, again, due to costs for now and also due to my tendencies to ocd. Lol.

How hot is to hot? Is 10 rounds back to back with only a minute between shots to much too fast? I don't really want to put my greasy fingers on the barrel to check temps but can resolve to waiting a minute or two between shots to let er cool down if it'll help barrel life.
 
I'm a newb. Have a T3X CTR 20" in 6.5 (no man bun lol). How do I prevent shooting out my barrel prematurely? Is there a length of time that I should wait between shots to let the barrel cool? I've put maybe 240 rounds through mine, but being clueless have fired all 10 in a row out of mine, with only a minute or so between them, without a thought. How much damage is it doing to the ctr barrel which is a slightly heavier profile? Is the damage something I can see happening with the naked eye if I just look for it? It seemed fine the last time I cleaned it, but I was looking for powder residue l, not barrel damage.
One per minute isn’t bad. If you regularly hammered off 5 or 10 as fast as you could cycle the bolt, I’d maybe say slow down.

Others may disagree, but I’d say your barrel will die when it dies. Enjoy your rifle, and replace as needed. In 6.5CM I’d guess you should bet many 1000’s of rounds down the tube before that’s an issue.

I have to ask, do you drive to the range where you shoot your 6.5CM from the airstrip where your SR22 is hangared, in your Tesla, while sipping your pumpkin spice latte whilst listening to Nickelback?? Hahahah - just poking fun… I like all of those things, except the pumpkin spice- so dumb. It’s really funny how some things begin to get hated on.

SRS
 
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