Time for some Springfields

[daveysprocket1]

Hello all,

There seems to be a lack of 1903 / 03a3 Springfield photos on the site so I'll add some and maybe get the ball rolling. Perhaps there could be a sticky.

As a disclaimer no pristine 100% original rifles were harmed in during the making of this thread.



Above from left to right: 1918 Springfield 1903 Mk1, 1943 Remington 03a3, 1942 Remington 1903, 1943 Smith Corona 03a3



Below is the 1942 Remington 1903. Refurbed by Nick at Vulcan. Has the correct mix of milled and stamped "R" marked parts for that serial number range. Has a NOS 9-42 barrel. Has a NOS 03a3 bolt body.







Below is the 1943 Smith Corona 03a3. All S/C parts except for the extractor which is a Remington. Shoots 2.5" groups at 250 yards in the prone position using just a sling and shooting coat. No other support such as bags or a rest.







Below is the 1943 Remington 03a3 with a Lyman 48s rear sight and a Lyman 17a XNB front sight. Refurbed by Nick at Vulcan. All milled "R" marked parts in place of stamped ones. NOS Keystone C stock.







Below is the 1918 Springfield 1903 Mk1. Has the original barrel and a J5 bolt which I believe to be correct for late 1918. It's in a Mk1 stock too. Replacement handguard.







Cheers

 

[furry]

AHSUM!!! they are all beautiful!

 

[vermintrex]

really nice images...and just great rifles

thanks for sharing

 

[RangeRover]

Thanks for sharing. Lovely. One of these is on my list. Some day. Some day.

 

[dirtytwo]

A Smith-Corona 03A3 is one of the few dream rifles left on my bucket list!!! I'm some powerfully jealous!!!

 

[Alonzo]

That MkI is the first one i have seen ion years with the ejection cut away in the stock...that is a prize!!!!!
Thanks for sharing.

 

[Ghost1]

I would'nt mind having one of those in my collection. Very nice rifles thanks for sharing !

 

[dimeN]

oooo lovem all ... i've alway wanted one !

thanks for showing

 

[Claven2]

Here are the last two I owned, a well-used low-number SA and a cherry-mint high-number SA. Sadly, I sold them in a moment of weakness when something bright and shiny caught my eye elsewhere…

 

[DANCESWITHEMPTIES]

Here's a few:

 

[daveysprocket1]

Dances,

Those are super. You've got me beat. I especially like the early logwood dyed stocks.

 

[Rumpelhardt]

Twice I've gone looking for a 1903 Springfield and twice I ended up with something else.
First time was my Fulton Regulated BSA Commercial No.1 that I just couldn't resist.
Second was my 1910 M96 Swedish Mauser.
If I can stop being so weak I might end up with one some day.

 

[caramel]

Those are beautys, here is my contribution to the world of 1903... JP.

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[DANCESWITHEMPTIES]

Dances,

Those are super. You've got me beat. I especially like the early logwood dyed stocks.

There's been some more A3's added to that pile since that pic.
That one is a few years old!

 

[purple]

The key to success in locating a M1903 or 03A3 is to get one with a good barrel. A lot of the original barrels were shot out and/or badly pitted as a result of heavy extensive use of corrosive primed military ammo. Replacement GI barrels can still be found, but they are very expensive, especially those for the M1903 with the original rear sight fixed base sleeve.

Assuming that the barrel is sound, the bedding can be tweaked in a number of critical areas so that the rifle shoots it's best. Make sure that the recoil lug is tight against the corresponding cutout in the stock. Shims made of a popcan or a fibre report cover can improve the fit here. Make sure that there is some clearance between the rear of the upper action tang and the stock or the tang will act as a recoil lug and cause the stock to split (same issue on any Mauser action). The barrel should be free of contact with the stock except at the forend tip where 5-7 lbs pressure is required to lift the barrel out of contact with the wood. Some rifles shoot well with a free floating barrel, but be careful of any metal to metal contact between the top of the barrel and the upper band as this will cause inconsistent shooting. If necessary the bottom surface of the upper band can be ground down with a circular grinding stone in a Dremel to establish clearance here. If you want to restore contact between the barrel and the wood at the forend tip you can insert a shim on top of the rear guard screw bushing to pivot the muzzle downwards. A washer can be worked over with a drill and file to form a suitable shim. Guard screws must be tight and the front one needs to be gorilla tight. Before the guard screws are fully tightened bump the buttplate on a wooden surface to help seat the recoil lug and then tighten the screws with the front one being fully tightened before the rear.

As for any rifle, handloads bring out the best. There is a wide selection of .308 bullets to try. IMR4064, IMR4895, Varget and H4895 work great with bullets in the 150-168gr range. IMR 4350 is a first choice for heavier bullets, but H4831 and IMR4320 are worth a try as well. W760 and H414 are good too. Necksize brass after initial firing.

The aperture sights of the 03A3 lend themselves to easier shooting. Try the itty-bitty peep/aperture sight in the M1903 folding leaf to get the best out of a M1903 at the range. Sights should be blackened before shooting. The old soldier's trick with a wooden kitchen match still works for this. M1903 rear sights can be problematic as they wear and become loose over time. shimming the movable base or peening the overhanging lip at the rear of the fixed sight base can help here. Its also a good idea to pack the M1903 rear sight windage screw with grease to minimize wear.