Even thou I am still a greenhorn at reloading I want to take it to "the next level" and start casting. I don't know anyone who casts so I'll be doin' it by reading the instructions. I started saving up pennies and eyeing up some new gear and started reading 'bout the procedure of casting, and it seems I need lead, tin,and antimony. No problem with the lead ,but where would I get the tin and antimony from?Preferably somewhere in BC. but anywhere in Canada would do. Any help would be appreciated.................Thanks J
Tin and Antimony
- Thread starter stickbow
- Start date
stickbow
You didn't mention what calibers you intend to cast for. For pistol applications alloy derived from wheelweights is more than sufficient. I use WW and quench the bullets from the mold in water (Hardens the bullets) with gas checks for my rifle calibers.
When I am casting a couple of rifle bullets I will add 50/50 solder to the alloy. The added tin aids in mold fill out. It does harden the bullets somewhat but Antimoney is the active metal in the alloy that increases the hardness of bullets.
If you haven't bought one already buy a copy of Lyman's Cast Book Handbook and read it twice. You might also consider joining this forum:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com
There is a lot of information on the forum and the guys there are great and will answer your questions in detail provided you have at least made an attempt at doing some home work.
If you have specific questions on equipment or need assistance feel free to PM me and we can exchange email addresses.
Take Care
Bob
You didn't mention what calibers you intend to cast for. For pistol applications alloy derived from wheelweights is more than sufficient. I use WW and quench the bullets from the mold in water (Hardens the bullets) with gas checks for my rifle calibers.
When I am casting a couple of rifle bullets I will add 50/50 solder to the alloy. The added tin aids in mold fill out. It does harden the bullets somewhat but Antimoney is the active metal in the alloy that increases the hardness of bullets.
If you haven't bought one already buy a copy of Lyman's Cast Book Handbook and read it twice. You might also consider joining this forum:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com
There is a lot of information on the forum and the guys there are great and will answer your questions in detail provided you have at least made an attempt at doing some home work.
If you have specific questions on equipment or need assistance feel free to PM me and we can exchange email addresses.
Take Care
Bob
blacksmithden
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Welcome to the dark side my young apprentice
Ok. First, the bad news. Tin is very hard to scrounge these days. You can buy it by purchasing solder, but it's expensive as hell. Antimony is almost non-existant.
The good news is, you might not need it. What gun are you planning on casting for ???
Regardless of what some will tell you, I can speak from experience that wheel weights (which contain both tin and antimony) are plenty hard enough to make slower rounds. By slower rounds, I mean less than 2000 ft/sec. I've shot thousands of cast bullets in my 300 win mag at a reduced load. I've alsho shot almost exclusively cast lead in my 44 mag and 45 Auto.
Shoot us some more info so we can ease your transition to cast bullets from wheel weights.
Please submit more information.
blacksmithden
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
You only use pure lead in black powder rifles like muzzle loaders. You'll have to harden it up in order to use it in your rifle. It's going to be much easier if you find the supply of wheel weights. They'll work fine in a 45/70.
