tips for bedding a stevens 200 in 300 win mag
- Thread starter spenom
- Start date
I've done one where I put tape on 3 sides of the lug and did not bed under the nut. I've done another where I left no air gap around the lug and bedded the nut. They both shoot. I have a feeling, that requires more testing, that the no air gap version is better.
Suck it and see!
You can always grind it down in a few seconds if you don't like it.
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
Hey spenom you wanna do me a favor and take some step by step pics for the whole process for me? I am very interested myself and in need of a tutorial!
LongBomber
CGN Regular
- Location
- Fernie, bc
If you are looking for arrow shafts, look up your local archery club, go to one of thier 3d shoots, you will find lots of shafts there. Cheap...
I cut two channels in the barrel channel, one on each side of the front sling swivel running back to the recoil lug, then I fit my arrow shafts and glue them in with archery glue for carbon arrows and let it cure. I then mix up a batch of fiberglass resin and fill up the barrel channel to cover the remaining crossmembers in the stock, but I still leave quite a bit of clearance for the barrel.
I cut two channels in the barrel channel, one on each side of the front sling swivel running back to the recoil lug, then I fit my arrow shafts and glue them in with archery glue for carbon arrows and let it cure. I then mix up a batch of fiberglass resin and fill up the barrel channel to cover the remaining crossmembers in the stock, but I still leave quite a bit of clearance for the barrel.
I can do you one better than that. Here is e link to the "Miles gilbert" bedding kit instructions. http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.com/downloads/instructions/190274-Bedrock-instructions.pdf
They has a section just on savage rifles and explain exactly what to do in great detail. I am just going step for step using these instructions. I will try and snap a few pictures as well.
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
I think thar says it all!
Thanks
I think thar says it all!
Thanks
Yeah those instructions are pretty good in my opinion! I still kept the camera handy during the process to hook you up with a few pictures. I am glad I gave you that link though because my pictures kinda suck to be honest. I was at the point where I had grinded out parts of the stock and was taking epoxy to the stock and my fingers were a bit messy with release agent and clay so handling my camera was understandably not possible at times. Here are the pictures I snapped.
These pictures kind of illustrate filling all holes with the clay provided in the kit and taping off all parts that need to be taped. What else can I say besides "stay tuned to see if I will ever be able to take the stock off my gun ever again.
Seriously though I think everything went A-OK and highly recommend the "Miles Gilbert" bedding kit from a first timers point of view because the instructions that come with it really leave no question unanswered. I would add though that the instructions show covering over the top of the pillar completely with epoxy during the application. It is easy enough to skirt around the hole to aid in not getting epoxy on the threads when you insert the action bolts during the procedure. The hydraulic nature of the process will force the epoxy everywhere it needs to go including around the bolts.
Good news I took the gun out of the stock this afternoon and it was not a big deal at all to get it out. Glad I didn't put epoxy over the pillar bolt holes though because some epoxy still managed to get up in the threads. It was no big deal though because at 8 hours into the drying process i turned the screws out one turn and back in. I snapped a few more pictures and will post them a bit later on. It is a nice day outside and all this gun stuff is going on the back burner. I am going for a hike.
Ok back from the hike. Here is where I am at. I got the now bedded stock off the action and added some epoxy to the fore end. I decided against puting in fishing pole or arrow shaft. Instead I drilled holes through all the connecting plastic and let the epoxy fully flow through the stock so it provides the strength. Anyway on with the pictures.
#1) So when you pop off the stock it is going to look something like this. I used a dremel to clean it up a little as you will see in the next pictures.
#2) Poser picture with the dremel in the shot and the bit I found was the easiest to work with to sand down the excess bedding compound.
#3) All cleaned up. This is the point that you realize you have just lost your "bedding a rifle virginity and feel awesome for doing it yourself. That hole in the epoxy was actually an air bubble that was in the epoxy. I will make note of this and make sure there are none in the next rifle I bed. It is in front of the recoil lug though so it should not be an issue.
#4) I went ahead and strengthened the fore-end. I don't think it is necessary to add fishing rod or arrow shaft, the epoxy is just as stiff and strong if not stronger than either of those and is not going to flex. I did drill connecting holes through the plastic ribbing to ensure one connected solid epoxy brace. I also think with the extra sling swivel I added further back in the stock is going to make using a bi-pod a none issue.
#5) I torqued the action bolts both to exactly 65 inch pounds. Most people I talked to just said to tighten them up and not to worry about the torque but it is so easy to do why not just do it?
#1) So when you pop off the stock it is going to look something like this. I used a dremel to clean it up a little as you will see in the next pictures.
#2) Poser picture with the dremel in the shot and the bit I found was the easiest to work with to sand down the excess bedding compound.
#3) All cleaned up. This is the point that you realize you have just lost your "bedding a rifle virginity and feel awesome for doing it yourself. That hole in the epoxy was actually an air bubble that was in the epoxy. I will make note of this and make sure there are none in the next rifle I bed. It is in front of the recoil lug though so it should not be an issue.
#4) I went ahead and strengthened the fore-end. I don't think it is necessary to add fishing rod or arrow shaft, the epoxy is just as stiff and strong if not stronger than either of those and is not going to flex. I did drill connecting holes through the plastic ribbing to ensure one connected solid epoxy brace. I also think with the extra sling swivel I added further back in the stock is going to make using a bi-pod a none issue.
#5) I torqued the action bolts both to exactly 65 inch pounds. Most people I talked to just said to tighten them up and not to worry about the torque but it is so easy to do why not just do it?
how messy did it get? my bet is that if it got messy you went a little heavy on the amount of epoxy?
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
So just slapped a Bushnell Banner 6-24 x 40, and things just keep getting better! Today shot a few groups just under an inch at 100 m and this was the nicest of the day I think. This is still with cheap FMJ this time American Eagle. I flyer and I knew it when the shot went off. The rest are withing half an inch. The squares are slightly under an inch so it looks decieving. I have everything I need to start reloading now so we will see if she can get any better! I am scared bedding the rifle will not make it any better and possible worse at this point. I did find that kit you have at a local shop Spenom. How did you like it?
I am so stoked, my Stevens 200 in .223 is on its way to me right now! I am getting so much useful info from these threads on them. I got some things to keep me busy for sure.... bedding, stiffening the fore end, paint maybe (previous owner already did a snow camo paint job on it) man I better make a list.
Awesome stuff guys!
Awesome stuff guys!
In fact too little at first!
I just find epoxy is either too sticky or hardens and become brittle. In other words getting the resin:hardener mix just perfect is a cr@p-shoot. I didn't cut as large relief slots into mine either, just roughed up the plastic and drilled a few dimples into it. I am going to redo it though this weekend as there are a few places without epoxy, resulting in less than 100% surface coverage.
I use the 8hr epoxy which reaches a 'set' consistency in 1 hour (depending on how thick it is). In order to work with it when its less runny I mix it then let it stand for 30-45 mins so it can get a little thicker before I apply it.
I also stiffed the forend with 2x 1/4" aluminum tubes I bought at a model shop.
I believe he is referring to stiffening the fore end, not bedding the action.
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
Good job.
This sort of basement gunplumbing sure is fun and rewarding, and definitely makes the rifle feel like it is "yours".
This sort of basement gunplumbing sure is fun and rewarding, and definitely makes the rifle feel like it is "yours".
Ha ha, good question!
1) I read that it works, and it does, its just not as good as the real stuff
2) I will replace the rubbish stock that is on there and am not worried about experimenting a bit with it. Besides the expoxy can be peeled/ground off if need be.
Would I use $6 epoxy on a good stock, no.
