Tips for speeding up cleaning off the lubricant from resized brass?

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rtracer13

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What do you do to increase the speed in cleaning off the lubricant from your brass?

My method so far has been very time consuming with taking a damp rag and wiping down the brass one by one after it is fully loaded.

I thought about washing them all off in a bucket of water, before priming and powdering.. but felt it would take a lot longer due to having to wait for them to dry off before continuing the steps.
 
I throw mine in my vibrating tumbler for a couple of hours after resizing. I usually have enough ahead that I just reload the ones already cleaned.
 
I recommend you get yourself an 11-year-old son or daughter. They're great for jobs like this, and all it costs is a box of timbits or a trip to McDonalds.

But yah, I usually just toss them in the vibratory cleaner for half an hour.
 
DrXenon said:
I recommend you get yourself an 11-year-old son or daughter. They're great for jobs like this, and all it costs is a box of timbits or a trip to McDonalds.

But yah, I usually just toss them in the vibratory cleaner for half an hour.
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LoL, I hear these sons and daughters are fun to make too! :)

Perhaps its just the media I am using, but I find the media in my vibratory cleaner tends to make the brass pretty dusty afterward. Do you guys use a different media from your regular cleaning media?
 
you DO NOT want to "throw them in a bucket of water ' after resizing- there was a member on here that had no end of trouble just a short time ago and it was all due to WET POWDER, or WET PRIMERS- in short, it was resolved that you simply CANNOT get the brass dry enough to exclude poor ignition
 
I use STP oil treatment (from CTC) on my lube pad for lubing rifle brass. This is used very lightly but is still very dense lube. After depriming and sizing, I place the entire lot in a coffee can(s) of white gas (also known as naptha gas, Camp Fuel, Coleman fuel, etc.). Put the lid on the can and give it a couple of shakes and then dump the brass into a filtering funnel (mine is a metal transmission funnel with a long flex stem from CTC). The gas coming from the funnel is saved in a sealed container for use again. Then the brass is layed out to dry (evaporate) for a couple of hours. A bit of trouble but quick and beats wiping cases off individually.
 
I use rcbs case lube VERY sparingly. 2or 3 drops on the pad easily does 200 rifle brass (for me anyway). I size, trim, chamfer/debur, and load. I haven't had any issues. Why create more work for yourself?
 
I used Imperial sizing die wax. I believe they are now owned by Redding. I think WSS sells this for about $5 a little tin. Don't be alarmed by the small size, a little goes a LONG way. The important part is that this stuff isn't icky like lube is. And you don't need to muck about with those stupid lube pads and all that jazz. It's clean, and just a light wipe of the finished round with a rag is all it needs. Heck, it probably doesn't need that.
 
mwjones said:
I use rcbs case lube VERY sparingly. 2or 3 drops on the pad easily does 200 rifle brass (for me anyway). I size, trim, chamfer/debur, and load. I haven't had any issues. Why create more work for yourself?
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Until the increased bolt thrust sets your locking lugs back into the receiver and you've ruined your action, it might not seem like removing case lube is worth the trouble.
My brother ruined a strong Savage 110 action by doing as you suggest. Removing all the the lube doesn't seem like so much work now!:D
 
Moose308 said:
I used Imperial sizing die wax. I believe they are now owned by Redding. I think WSS sells this for about $5 a little tin. Don't be alarmed by the small size, a little goes a LONG way. The important part is that this stuff isn't icky like lube is. And you don't need to muck about with those stupid lube pads and all that jazz. It's clean, and just a light wipe of the finished round with a rag is all it needs. Heck, it probably doesn't need that.
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I use this too and love it. That little tin looks like it's going to last me 10 or 20 years. Clean up takes about 2 minutes for 50 rounds of .303 or .308.

if you haven't tried it you really need to.
 
For lubing I use a little lyman quick spray with a dab of lee case lube in a plastic bag. Shake it all around. Resize the 100 cases, then when they are all resized, I throw them in a sweat shirt that has the arms and neck sewn shut. 2 minutes of rubbing and rolling and they come out clean. I don't like how my annealed case neck rim gets all bange up from the polisher after resizing.my 2 cents
 
I wipe all my rifle cases with a rag saturated with rubbing alcohol.It dries fast and removes the lube really well.If you do wash the cases in hot soapy water , you will have to let them dry properly, which I have done by puttin them in a steel collander and puttin them in the oven at the lowest I can set my stove and leave then in there for about 45 min to an HR and shake the collander every once in a while just to move the casings around.
 
I wipe them by hand if its just 10 or 20, and tumble them for a while if it's a lot of cases.

I like to throw my black powder cases into soapy water after decapping and then dry them out real good before priming/recharging.
 
I have warmed them up in the oven on low to get the grease to wipe off easier/ cleaner. If they're dusty from the tumbler , I use my air compressor to blow them off.
 
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