Tips for Zeroing with Fixed Sights
- Thread starter JEC
- Start date
First off they are only fixed if you let them be. Granted it requires a file or a welder to make adjustments but you CAN adjust them.
OK, assuming it's an elevation only issue. It's all just down to the ammo. You don't say which gun it is. That would help a lot.
In a revolver such as a S&W Model 10 they are intended to shoot with the classic .38Spl load of 158gn cast pushed at around 850 fps. But the key is the 158gn bullet. After that cast or jacketed can be fudged for muzzle speed to match the sights. 148gn wadcutter loads are the other classic which works with these sights due to the lower power level to go with the lighter bullet.
If it's a cowboy style SAA clone then be aware that often the sights are copied off the old .45Colt sights. Other calibers such as .357Mag chambering has more weight in the barrel and cylinder due to the smaller "holes". And they didn't always put in the proper height of front sight.
Regardless of what it is (please tell us, I'm deing to know
) if it's hitting below your POA then it's likely that the maker left it high on purpose because of ammo variations. You need to settle in on a load you like and THEN trim the front blade for height to match the aim to the ammo's POI.
If it's an SAA then shooting one or two handed also plays a part in all this. So keep that in mind.
If it's an SAA then your hand position will affect the windage. If you try to use a high hold like a modern gun it's going to want to pull strongly to the left. You want to use a hold which puts the web of your hand over the rear strap just at or a touch below the middle of the bend at the top. Any higher and it'll pull left. If you wear medium or larger gloves usually then try putting your pinky under the butt of the grips instead of wedging your hand up high to make room for your pinky. Pinky under is actually how these are intended to be held for all but those with the smallest of hands.
Once you settle on your hold style and ammo bullet weight and power level then it's time to trim the front blade down with a file if it still shoots low. If it's shooting high then you either live with it or alter your reload power level or bullet weight. Heavier or slower shoots higher. Lighter or faster shoots lower.
If you need a SLIGHT windage correction and a few other folks have shot the gun and it's consistently off for all of you then you can open up the rear notch on one side with a needle file then touch up the bluing. Don't go crazy though or you might open it up so much that it's hard to gauge the gaps to either side of the front blade in the notch. While this is OK for action shooting and in fact is a nice thing to do it's not good to go over board for a bullseye gun.
OK, assuming it's an elevation only issue. It's all just down to the ammo. You don't say which gun it is. That would help a lot.
In a revolver such as a S&W Model 10 they are intended to shoot with the classic .38Spl load of 158gn cast pushed at around 850 fps. But the key is the 158gn bullet. After that cast or jacketed can be fudged for muzzle speed to match the sights. 148gn wadcutter loads are the other classic which works with these sights due to the lower power level to go with the lighter bullet.
If it's a cowboy style SAA clone then be aware that often the sights are copied off the old .45Colt sights. Other calibers such as .357Mag chambering has more weight in the barrel and cylinder due to the smaller "holes". And they didn't always put in the proper height of front sight.
Regardless of what it is (please tell us, I'm deing to know
) if it's hitting below your POA then it's likely that the maker left it high on purpose because of ammo variations. You need to settle in on a load you like and THEN trim the front blade for height to match the aim to the ammo's POI.If it's an SAA then shooting one or two handed also plays a part in all this. So keep that in mind.
If it's an SAA then your hand position will affect the windage. If you try to use a high hold like a modern gun it's going to want to pull strongly to the left. You want to use a hold which puts the web of your hand over the rear strap just at or a touch below the middle of the bend at the top. Any higher and it'll pull left. If you wear medium or larger gloves usually then try putting your pinky under the butt of the grips instead of wedging your hand up high to make room for your pinky. Pinky under is actually how these are intended to be held for all but those with the smallest of hands.
Once you settle on your hold style and ammo bullet weight and power level then it's time to trim the front blade down with a file if it still shoots low. If it's shooting high then you either live with it or alter your reload power level or bullet weight. Heavier or slower shoots higher. Lighter or faster shoots lower.
If you need a SLIGHT windage correction and a few other folks have shot the gun and it's consistently off for all of you then you can open up the rear notch on one side with a needle file then touch up the bluing. Don't go crazy though or you might open it up so much that it's hard to gauge the gaps to either side of the front blade in the notch. While this is OK for action shooting and in fact is a nice thing to do it's not good to go over board for a bullseye gun.
The new ones come with an adjustable rear sight. So you don't need to bring the file and welder with you to the range.....
As it happens my own Single Six is an early three screw model. But it has a drift adjustable rear sight. So it's technically not a "fixed" sight. The front sight was way too low though so I ended up fitting a taller front sight and then trimmed it to suit the ammo. The old Single Six used a woodruff key style of press fitted sight. The new ones use a taller partridge style front sight.
Enjoy your new gun and yes, they really are a fine shooter.
I'm more a fan of the smooth top look though. So if I felt the need to add a new playmate to the safe to keep the old style Single Six company I'd likely opt for one of the 6 or 10 shot Pietta SAA clones.
As it happens my own Single Six is an early three screw model. But it has a drift adjustable rear sight. So it's technically not a "fixed" sight. The front sight was way too low though so I ended up fitting a taller front sight and then trimmed it to suit the ammo. The old Single Six used a woodruff key style of press fitted sight. The new ones use a taller partridge style front sight.
Enjoy your new gun and yes, they really are a fine shooter.
I'm more a fan of the smooth top look though. So if I felt the need to add a new playmate to the safe to keep the old style Single Six company I'd likely opt for one of the 6 or 10 shot Pietta SAA clones.
Always wanted to look like a cowboy ... so I ordered the model with the groove in the top strap. Had one about ten years ago which I popped the front sight off while trying to bend it over. Silver soldered it back in the slot. The new ones have the rubberized grips (yuk) so I will be looking for wood after markets (any suggestion for CDN) retailer. Also, a leather holster?
Just went and looked at the Ruger web site. I didn't realize that they had started making a fixed sight version. Those look SUPER! I'm now officially envious of you
The good news for you is that the grip slabs are just that, slabs. So it's going to be relatively easy to make up new slabs from wood or antler. And wouldn't that dark coloured gun look great with "grained" antler grips! ! ! !
There's also all the Ruger Single Six after market grip options too. I can't say which stores in particular have Ruger single action grips but I know I've seen them from time to time in the stores. Nothing in Canada is large enough a volume that you'll find supplies of after market grips regularly in stock though. So you're limited to scouting out the local shops and asking. I say "local shops" since wood is so variable that I would be reluctant to buy a set unless I could see them in person.
Really though if you do a bit of shop tinkering making up grips to fit your new toy would not be hard to do. What I've done is to make up a "fake frame" that matches the gun but with a long extension of the stick coming off what would be the butt end of the frame. This let me screw the new grip slabs down through the mounting hole and with a pin in the stock position for shaping. That way I was able to hold them in the vise easily while getting great access for the coarse metal file I used as a "rasp".
The good news for you is that the grip slabs are just that, slabs. So it's going to be relatively easy to make up new slabs from wood or antler. And wouldn't that dark coloured gun look great with "grained" antler grips! ! ! !
There's also all the Ruger Single Six after market grip options too. I can't say which stores in particular have Ruger single action grips but I know I've seen them from time to time in the stores. Nothing in Canada is large enough a volume that you'll find supplies of after market grips regularly in stock though. So you're limited to scouting out the local shops and asking. I say "local shops" since wood is so variable that I would be reluctant to buy a set unless I could see them in person.
Really though if you do a bit of shop tinkering making up grips to fit your new toy would not be hard to do. What I've done is to make up a "fake frame" that matches the gun but with a long extension of the stick coming off what would be the butt end of the frame. This let me screw the new grip slabs down through the mounting hole and with a pin in the stock position for shaping. That way I was able to hold them in the vise easily while getting great access for the coarse metal file I used as a "rasp".
