I use my full length die and bump shoulders .020". Everything chambers and never have to worry about when I will need to size brass that has been neck sized. Also if you neck size eventually you will have to full length size then fire form again to get your load the same as before sizing.
You mean 0.002"
I use FL dies with Redding Competition shellholders. I use the .010" over until there is more bolt resistance than I feel like putting up with; then go down .002" at a time on a single case until there is either just the slightest hint of bolt resistance or none. Slight resistance is zero shoulder bump; and one step past is .002" bump. Or up to .002" if you want to split hairs. At this point I'll write the shell holder number on the shell box and use it for that rifle for all the brass and any future new brass.
Easier than falling down a well. Never set a die again, never oversize a case again, and use the same dies on multiple rifles without setting.
By bumping the shoulder back you are referring to moving the datum line back correct?Weatherby brass is $$ and I want to get the most out of it.
Yeah, I have a tool that fits over the case to determine the case head to shoulder datum dimension.
I think Hornady sells a tool specifically for that purpose. Probably Sinclair does too. The tool isn't a must-have, but it takes some of the guesswork out of the process.
For a hunting rifle, being sure loaded rounds will chamber reliably and safely is a priority for me. Top accuracy is a good thing, but having a critter with designs on eating me staring me in the eye while my bolt won't close on a loaded round wouldn't be good.. every hunting round I load gets checked before it goes in a box.
That happens a lot in Nova Scotia, does it?![]()



























