To lee factory crimp or not? (30-30) is the question.

joelyknives

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Factory bullets have what kind of crimp versus the Lee RGB two die set? I am new to everything having only recieved my PAL last fall and am getting a bench ready for reloading. From what I've read when loads are backed off from max velocity the groups tighten all things being the same-in most cases. I've heard the Lee Factory Crimp produces higher pressure than the standard bullet seat slight roll crimp-Is this a non issue? Will the Bullets seat to deep from recoil in my 30-30 tubular mag. without a factory crimp? According to LEE factory crimp is the way to go for all cartridges. Does anyone have wisdom to share when it comes to reloading for the 30-30? None of the manuals seem to care about the crimp. Please let me know. Joel.
 
Joel, the factory crimp die is a special die that is just for creating the deep crimp seen on factory ammo. IMHO it is a good idea to use this die on any ammo that you are going to use for hunting, especially in a tube feed rifle. I feel that it also contributes to accuracy by making each cartridge have the same even start pressure. You will get many opinions about crimping. Each will have it's merits. Ultimately you will have to decide if you want to crimp your rounds.

George
 
Factory bullets have what kind of crimp versus the Lee RGB two die set? I am new to everything having only recieved my PAL last fall and am getting a bench ready for reloading. From what I've read when loads are backed off from max velocity the groups tighten all things being the same-in most cases. I've heard the Lee Factory Crimp produces higher pressure than the standard bullet seat slight roll crimp-Is this a non issue? Will the Bullets seat to deep from recoil in my 30-30 tubular mag. without a factory crimp? According to LEE factory crimp is the way to go for all cartridges. Does anyone have wisdom to share when it comes to reloading for the 30-30? None of the manuals seem to care about the crimp. Please let me know. Joel.

Your 2 die Lee set is all you need to make completely satisfactory crimps.
Lee is trying to sell their product, which in this case is not needed. How do you think they got along reloading the 30-30 for the nearly 100 years before the Lee, so called factory crimp die, came out?
Load the 30-30 to full power, as shown in the reloading manuals. You can load a few a bit lighter first, to try them, but I never heard of any 30-30 rifle that wasn't safe with the loads shown as maximum in the reloading manuals.
Don't listen to this foolishness about loading a 30-30 lighter, to get better accuracy. Load it full up and sight it in.
 
Your 2 die Lee set is all you need to make completely satisfactory crimps.
Lee is trying to sell their product, which in this case is not needed. How do you think they got along reloading the 30-30 for the nearly 100 years before the Lee, so called factory crimp die, came out?
Load the 30-30 to full power, as shown in the reloading manuals. You can load a few a bit lighter first, to try them, but I never heard of any 30-30 rifle that wasn't safe with the loads shown as maximum in the reloading manuals.
Don't listen to this foolishness about loading a 30-30 lighter, to get better accuracy. Load it full up and sight it in.

What he said.

Adjusting the charge weight can indeed improve accuracy, but there is no magic about lowering vs raising. Some rifles will do better with hotter loads than others - it's a question of experimenting.
 
The major advantage of the factory crimp die is that case length is not critical. The roll crimps need to have the cases very close to the same length, if too long, the shoulders can be pushed back and ruin the round. I feel that a crimp is needed for tube mags.
 
If you keep your case lengths trimmed, the standard die set will crimp just fine.
The Lee Factory crimp die may however prove advantageous to a new reloader, as it removes some of the errors that can happen when crimping.

If you follow the directions on crimping that come with your dies to the letter, you should get an acceptable crimp.

Too Much:
If you notice your cases are tight feeding, it's likely that your crimp is at fault. Too much taper crimp on a 30-30 will buckle the neck slightly. This can actually result in loose bullets.

Too little:
Bullets walk back in the case.

A good test is to try and twist the bullet with your fingers. If you can do that your crimp is not right.
 
Another thought - this is a .30/30.

First, a solid crimp is necessary in 99% of rifles feeding that round due to their tubular mags. Your die set will provide it.

As to the consistency and accuracy issue, again, this is a .30/30, not a 6mm BR. The rifles are not inherently superaccurate and are used generally out to 100m - 150m at most. The accuracy aspect is to my mind a red herring for this round.

Bottom line - go with the dies, invite Bambi home for dinner, have fun.
 
If you keep your case lengths trimmed, the standard die set will crimp just fine.
The Lee Factory crimp die may however prove advantageous to a new reloader, as it removes some of the errors that can happen when crimping.

.



I tend to agree with this. If your cases are trimmed consistently, there will be little problems with any die making a good crimp providing the die is set up properly.

The factory crimp dies do work well, but so do most die sets.
 
I use the Factory Crimp on most, if not all, the calibers I reload. Gives a good, consistent crimp, which provides good, consistent accuracy.
The roll crimp is fine, but the reproducability of the crimp is dependant on case length. If you trim all your brass to length, then it's fine.
The FC dies are excellent for handgun rounds where (most people) you don't trim the brass, but fire until brass failure.
 
I use my Lee FCD for .30/30 cast and jacketed loads. The roll crimp feature in a seating die works fine too.
 
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