I have a new 22-250 on its way and I am wondering what peoples opinions are on moly vs non moly? The reason I ask is my last 22-250 I ran moly in it and it shot very well. I have about 150 loaded rounds left over, and don't much feel like pulling bullets. Call me getting old and lazy but I plan to shoot non moly rounds in this gun, but i'm not sure if I should be running the moly stuff I got through the pipe initially? I was big into the moly thing a few years back, but now its just one more step that I don't feel like doing anymore. I have had other rifles I have started on moly and then quit that seem to shoot fine with the non moly stuff, so bottom line is I guess I am just looking for opinions and experiences here! Thanks!
To moly or not to moly?
- Thread starter Wookie316
- Start date
- Location
- Virden, MB
People get excited arguing about the pros/cons about moly.
I used them for a while. I don't know, seemed fine, nothing spectacular and terrible.
Buy a box, if you don't like the moly after a few rounds, use some CLR or cleaner and wipe it off. Shoot the rest and then try something else.
What model of rifle you getting.
I used them for a while. I don't know, seemed fine, nothing spectacular and terrible.
Buy a box, if you don't like the moly after a few rounds, use some CLR or cleaner and wipe it off. Shoot the rest and then try something else.
What model of rifle you getting.
I'm gonna have to eat some crow here, but I am getting a Remingtion VSF. I know there is nothing wrong with them, but I'm a Sako guy through and through and I have knocked my buddy & his Remingtons for a long long time. I have to admit though, from the first time I shouldered the rifle, the look and feel of it sold me! The desert tan stock and blued barrel with the fluting makes for an attractive piece of iron. Haven't told my buddy yet, maybe I'll just show up at the range with it and see his jaw drop!
The 150 rounds I have are molyed now, I was just a bit concerned about running them through first, then switching to the non moly.
I will add the only reason I bought the Remy is the Sako is way too much! The Tikka is just too plastic for my taste too!
So all the Remy guys out there can take there shot now!
The 150 rounds I have are molyed now, I was just a bit concerned about running them through first, then switching to the non moly.
I will add the only reason I bought the Remy is the Sako is way too much! The Tikka is just too plastic for my taste too!
So all the Remy guys out there can take there shot now!
I recently bought a box of Lapua Moly 167 match bullets for my .308
I have some loaded up but haven't fired any off yet.
To be honest I don't know much about the whole moly/non-moly debate. I didn't want to start a thread because it is one of those things that never end like every sub-forum here has.
I'm excited to try them out in my new 700 5R. I'll try comparing them with a similar load in some 168 BTHPs.
Didn't think of that, would that have any effect? logic tells me it shouldn't with a decent cleaning.
I have some loaded up but haven't fired any off yet.
To be honest I don't know much about the whole moly/non-moly debate. I didn't want to start a thread because it is one of those things that never end like every sub-forum here has.
I'm excited to try them out in my new 700 5R. I'll try comparing them with a similar load in some 168 BTHPs.
Didn't think of that, would that have any effect? logic tells me it shouldn't with a decent cleaning.
Last edited:
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
To get the full benefit of moly you should clean your bore down to bare steel and treat the barrel with moly. Think about a skater who glides along the ice surface then hits a patch of sand. When the bullet goes beyond the point of where the moly from the previous bullet has been deposited on the bore surface, it runs into the rough surface of the barrel and the advantage of the moly coating is lost. Many claims are made for this stuff, and frankly I'm on the fence. At the best I think you might see a small increase in velocity, particularly with a factory barrel, and longer intervals between cleaning. At worst you have added a step that might make no difference at all and you have added an unknown variable with respect to accuracy. I would be inclined to shoot the rifle first and get a base line for velocity and accuracy then treat the barrel with moly and either treat some bullets yourself or buy a box of moly coated bullets and see for yourself if there is any worthwhile improvement.
Last edited:
Moly coated bullets will not make any rifle shoot better. It will however let you shoot more before having to clean. At one time I put over 800 moly coated bullets down my barrel before cleaning it, and still won matches. The only reason I did end up cleaning it was because I had the Provincial matches and the DCRA coming up and didn't want to end up cleaning sometime during these matches.
If you shoot moly bullets then want to switch to bare bullets, just clean the barrel. I would do the same if switching from bare bullets to moly coated.
If you shoot moly bullets then want to switch to bare bullets, just clean the barrel. I would do the same if switching from bare bullets to moly coated.
I was using 190 MK's in my 300 WM, and could not get three rounds under an inch at 200 m. When I ran out of them, I scrubbed the bore with JB, and using the same load as before, the first five were 1 5/8". Unfortunately, I had a sixth . . . which ran it to 2.5"
As someone else said . . . "Kiss the rifling". I am getting close so now will work it out slowly.
As someone else said . . . "Kiss the rifling". I am getting close so now will work it out slowly.
