to moly or not

well, you have to know how to look for pressure issues. Generally, though, I've found it takes between .5 and 1.5 grains of powder to get pressures back up to where they should be. For my 223, it's .5 grains. For my 243, it's 2 grains.
 
Moly

Although there's arguements for and against, I found my 220 Swift to like it, I tried a large group of assorted sizes and types and ended up experimenting with the smaller .224 bullets. Tried 40 gr bare and then when I couldn't get them settled for the 40 gr. Moly and the group tightened up even more.

Simple to clean and the rifle liked em.

M.
 
Interesting question about what is too high a load in the BR case. I shot a 7BR for years and am pretty new to the 6, but I worry about pushing such a small case too far. I know there is a tendency for people to push the 6BR, in fact, I heard a really interesting conversation about this between some very experienced shooters at the Farquy last year. Tne thing that has occurred to me is that any change in a small case is a much bigger proportional change than in a large case and I think changing conditions will work the same way. In my 7 I had a load of 31.5 grains 2520 that shot well in cooler temperatures but when I got to August heat I had an extraction problem and blew the primer. Had to stop in the middle of a match. Could shoot all day in any temperature with 31 grains.
 
yeah, my shots seem to be more accurate if i keep it cooler, the less time the round is locked in the chamber before i pull the trigger the better it seems. i've shot at paper probably average of 50 shots a day for the last week straight pretty well. today i think im going to try waiting a couple mins between shots. see what happens, i usually shoot 10 shots in 4 -5 mins or something, i think i'll space it out a bit, see what happens
 
well, despite a bit of a breeze and snow grrrrr i definitely got some good groups with them moly coated scenars! 5 shots into less then a finger nail. i had to ad roughly a grain extra to shrink those groups. i got similar results workin up a load with regular scenars, so i know these will be at least as good, with possiblity for better so i'll order a bunch more in the moly version now that i know they can perform.

it seems that from 100 yd zero, it takes 9 clicks to get out to 200, and 27 or so to get to 300 (from 100) does this seem on par with everybody? i wish i had a chrono.
 
I shoot it in my 6BR, but only because i have a smack of moly'd bullets that came with thr rifle.
I just took all the moly out of my .223, because I have no moy'd in that caliber.
Cat
 
I tried moly in a couple of rifles that were being used for HBR. Each shot was accounted for and tracked.

The targets were shot from 100-300yds, five targets/page for score and 1 target/page as a sighter. Normal HBR targets.

The bbl on the 308Win was a Hart and on the 6PPC was a shilen.

Each bbl took at least 10 rounds from a fresh clean bbl to settle down and after that didn't shoot any better than it did without the moly.

The only difference was without the moly, each rifle only required a maximum of 3 shots to be consistant and reliable.

I gave up on the moly very quickly on the 308, 78 rounds. These bbls are expensive and only have so much acceptable competition life.

Now for the 6PPC was never intende to be used competetively and I did a lot more testing with it, 300 rounds.

I tried 3 different batches of 100ea. I used the "Nico" kit and vibratory tumblers as per instructions.

The only thing I changed in two of the recipes was the amount of carnuba wax for finish. None of it made any difference in performance. It didn't matter if it was cold or hot or if I changed the seating depth or powder charge.

The only real difference between coated and uncoated bullets was, it took more sighters for moly and it was more difficult to clean.

There certainly wasn't any extended accuracy life that could be considered competetive quality over uncoated bullets and there was a lot more time in bullet preparation as well.

Now this wasn't just my finding. My very good friend, the late Al Forsland. went through the same tests as I did, useing my kit, to keep a control of components. Als' results weren't any different. By the way, his rifles were useing Shilen SM bbls and were chambered for the 30BR and the 6PPC.

Anyone that knew Al could attest to his incredible focus when it came to cpmpetetive shooting, hell, any kind of shooting. Al was very anal about extreme accuracy, right out to 1000yds.

Al gave up on the moly long before I did. He was right in my opinion as well as vastly more proficient and experienced than I.

I'v met people that swear by moly coated bullets. My first reaction is show me.

I've been shown more than once that some rifles shoot it extremely well. On the other hand when I'v convinced the owners of those rifles to clean the moly out completely and shoot plain bullets, the rifles still shot extremely well with no difference in accuracy, one even better.

Moly may have its uses with ho hum bores and may even improve accuracy in them. Personally, it's not for me and it certainly isn't a magic wand.

If you're convinced that it's makeing old betsy into a new filly go for it and enjoy. It's a lot like the dates we had before we got married, some did, some didn't.

bearhunter
 
I'm going to revive this sucker instead of start a new one.

I was at WSS buying bullets today and the guy said if I had used moly (last 4 boxes were Hornady match moly) that I should stay using moly or else I'll end up "plating the barrel" I think... or something to that effect. He was saying it's hard to get moly out and moly adhears to copper really well and hence you will get copper in the barrel that won't come out.

So I bought 4 more boxes of Hornady moly, but am thinking, do I really want to be stuck only ever shooting moly bullets?? I'm sure there will be the odd time I'll end up with copper and don't want to be worried about shooting it. In fact I still have a couple boxes of copper bullets left....

Should I just shoot these last four moly boxes and then get to work on cleaning the hell out of my barrel and stick with copper?? When I get into reloading, is there any difference or cost with loading moly bullets?

Thanks.
 
He is half right. Moly is hard to clean out of the bore if you want to switch back to naked bullets. However if you use something like Gunslick foaming bore cleaner, it is a breeze. JB paste and Kroil also work by is takes a bit more elbow grease.
If you use Moly you shouldn't see any copper in the barrel. You can switch back and forth between Moly and naked bullets, but you should clean the barrel before switching. The guy from WSS is full of it, if he is suggesting that once you use moly you can't go back.
 
what Maynard said...That being said I'm no expert but I know what I've seen. My target 30-06 likes moly bullets(the damn thing likes Barnes bullets as well, but I haven't won the lottery yet so...) my .308 target rifle doesn't. my varmint rifle shoots both moly as well as non moly equally. mind you, you do have to adjust your loads. and clean between as well as running some down the pipe if changing. Not a lot of work really.
 
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