To refinish, or leave as is: Win 92
- Thread starter adriel
- Start date
- Location
- Winnipeg,Man.
It totally would depend on the shape of the barrel, if it is bad, it can be rebored ( at cost of about $600). It cannot be replaced or rebored and be original. The other parts inside the action can be replaced ($) if you can find them. the action is so disfigured that it would be costly to return to "newer" condition. If the woods are shot and it looks like they are, replacements are over $100. So you have to figure out how much you want to spend on a gun that would only be a shooter worth about $350.
Just my opinion, but the "character" in that piece puts it well out of the realm of being a "collectable". I say go at it if you have the energy, patience, and know how (or cash!). There are many many hours of careful draw filing and polishing in the metal work, and by the looks of the photo, it'll be needing new furniture. I had a very early '95 that I did a good deal of the clean-up on before a professional polish and reblue. I also did the fitting and finishing of new wood. I've since sold it, and almost broke even, though my muchos hours of labor were free. Nonetheless, it was a very satisfying and educational project .
getthismanaslap
Regular
- Location
- Hazard County Alberta
it looks like crap...you gotta do something..cant see showing it off to the buddies looking like that unless you want to dazzle them after it is finished..
The barrel may still be shoot alright. There's pitting, but it might hold. Only shooting it will tell. Just trying to get a feeling if I'm committing a travesty by replacing parts, bead blasting and re-blueing a 100+ year old rifle. Price for replacement parts will only be around $50 (without barrel), only other cost is time.
Go for it, it's an education! The barrel may be okay or you can rebore, wood will set you back a bit, and the file and emory cloth work will kill the winter evenings. The stock work and finishing will kill the spring evenings. Then, you can enjoy it all summer!!
Take it to Henry's and get a camera
I saw better looking things still gift wrapped in sh!t paper lying in the bottom of my cess pool last time I had it cleaned out.
You're liable to get a face full of shrapnel if you fire that rusted out piece of junk.
Take it to Henry's and get a camera.
Life Memberships: NRA, GOA, CSSA, NFA, OFAH
CCW Permits: Utah, Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Maine
I saw better looking things still gift wrapped in sh!t paper lying in the bottom of my cess pool last time I had it cleaned out.You're liable to get a face full of shrapnel if you fire that rusted out piece of junk.
Take it to Henry's and get a camera.
Life Memberships: NRA, GOA, CSSA, NFA, OFAH
CCW Permits: Utah, Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Maine
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Clean it up (by that I mean oil, remove the rust, replace all parts damaged [screws, etc.] get replacement parts.)
The wood looks dark and that's very nice, proves the gun is old. Allot of old guns have lost some of thier patina because the wood has been cleaned or refinished. Does the wood have any cracks?
How about some more picts?
Pete
The wood looks dark and that's very nice, proves the gun is old. Allot of old guns have lost some of thier patina because the wood has been cleaned or refinished. Does the wood have any cracks?
How about some more picts?
Pete
Unless the rifle is a rare vintage original you could probably buy a brand spanking new Browning or Marlin with less than what it would cost it to fix your clunker.If you've got to hire someone to do the work it probably isn't worth fixing.
It would be a good gun to break in your amateur gunsmiths skills on.......if you screw it up......no big deal.
Life Memberships: NRA, GOA, CSSA, NFA, OFAH
CCW Permits: Utah, Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Maine
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Rebuild time!
Find some nice wood, a couple dozen sheets of wet-or-dry, and a decent bench to work on, and go to town on it.
Despite the way some dealers will charge for being so "original", it's still a beater gun that will only be improved with a bit of intelligent work (like steer clear of sandblasting cabinets).
Some clean-up. Some new screws. Some new wood. Maybe a rebore, Maybe a reline, maybe just a good scrub out on the barrel.
Rust bluing is a good DIY project.
Where did you get it, and what did you have to pay? If you don't want to put in the work, flog it and buy something else to shoot.
Or just scrub down the action with oil and steel wool, fix the screws up, and take it to the range!
Cheers
Trev
Find some nice wood, a couple dozen sheets of wet-or-dry, and a decent bench to work on, and go to town on it.
Despite the way some dealers will charge for being so "original", it's still a beater gun that will only be improved with a bit of intelligent work (like steer clear of sandblasting cabinets).
Some clean-up. Some new screws. Some new wood. Maybe a rebore, Maybe a reline, maybe just a good scrub out on the barrel.
Rust bluing is a good DIY project.
Where did you get it, and what did you have to pay? If you don't want to put in the work, flog it and buy something else to shoot.
Or just scrub down the action with oil and steel wool, fix the screws up, and take it to the range!
Cheers
Trev
Couple of things to ask yourself or ponder while spending time in the "small room":
Why did I buy it or acquire it in the first place? Is it a keepsake...say grandpa's.
What is it worth as it sits...blue book nra value? What is it worth restored? It could be possible to lose money on the value if you figure in the cost of restoration. Will it ever look the way I want it too given my own personal talents if I choose to restore it myself?
Personally I would replace the missing parts and hang it on the wall...especially if it was a momento from your past.
Why did I buy it or acquire it in the first place? Is it a keepsake...say grandpa's.
What is it worth as it sits...blue book nra value? What is it worth restored? It could be possible to lose money on the value if you figure in the cost of restoration. Will it ever look the way I want it too given my own personal talents if I choose to restore it myself?
Personally I would replace the missing parts and hang it on the wall...especially if it was a momento from your past.
I agree with Pblatzz (post 10). Clean it up and try shooting it. I have seen quite a few rifles and pistols with sewer pipe bore shoot amazing groups. If the wood isn't cracked I would leave it as is. Looking at the depth of some of the dings in the receiver I would hesistate to try draw filing them out because of the metal removal required. As to the missing parts send me a PM and I will put you in touch with a fellow in Alberta who usually has a good supply of 92 parts.
depends on how you refinish it. If your going to sand blast it and black oxide the receiver then tru oil the stock I'd say no. If you can restore the stock then oil it go ahead. If you can also restore the receiver with out making it look like it was made by armalite go for it. Those who think old things in rough shape have charecter must not have met my father before.
juanvaldez
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Sudbury, Ontario
If you are bead blasting it you are not restoring it, I think that was the assumption some made that by refinishing you meant restoring. If you want to make a shootable gun build up the the broken parts of the stock with epoxy, sand her down then put truck bed liner on it. On the metal take an angle grinder with a sanding flapper then grind out the pits and marks, bead blast and put on some black gunkote. Their are some epoxy fillers for your metal as well. You can fill pits or marks then paint over it.
Yep ....you could make that old beauty look like a brand new bubba special POS
Yep ....you could make that old beauty look like a brand new bubba special POS
I remember John Wooters had the same gun and the bore looked like $hit but he got acceptable accuracy with cast 87gr slugs.The exterior pitting looked worse than yours? I wouldn't throw the baby out with the bathwater so to speak...............Harold
