To the guys who use the CT/Walmart safes for thier pistols:

Wrong Way

Wrong Way

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A buddy picked one of these up, and asked me if I could do some kind of insert to make it more usefull (I am a woodworker afterall;) ) So this is what I came up with. The shelves are adjustable/removeable, and once in they are they are very rigd. So my question is, in your opinion, would it be worth me making more and putting them up for sale? I mean, it's not like theyre worth a ton (probably under 20 bucks a set), but I don't want to waste a day making a bunch only to have them sit here....:redface:
What do you think?
Thanks all!
Ryan

Safe1_1_1.jpg


Safe2_2_1.jpg


safe3_3_1.jpg
 
I'll have to rig up something similar, but I've got mine flat on the floor beside the bed. It would be nice to be able to reach right in and wrap a hand around the pistol grip-frame.
 
exact same safe I have. Got it super cheap at Canadian Tire. Works good, you just have to remember to change out the batteries every 3 months, (and leave the instructions and spare keys somewhere you won't forget them)
I had to dig deep into my memory banks to remember how to reset the code when the batteries went dead.
Nice little edition. That is what I should have for mine.
 
coltfan said:
I tought they needed a trigger lock......?
Click to expand...

Not if they are stored in a safe.

The manufacturer has a label on the front of the thing saying it's a safe.

So it is, by manufacturer definition, a safe.

Therefore restricted weapons stored in it, do NOT need to be trigger locked.

WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOO!:D
 
I'd rather loose the top and bottom shelfs and adhesive the sides to the safe walls freeing up more space top and bottom. Hope you make them.
 
MPI said:
I'd rather loose the top and bottom shelfs and adhesive the sides to the safe walls freeing up more space top and bottom. Hope you make them.
Click to expand...

Tried....won't work:redface:
The problem is in the "lip" of the safe. If the sides are pushed right up against the sides of the safe, it's immpossible to get the shelves to click in to the dado's. What I did was cut them so the overall width was 1/4" short of the overall width, and backed the side behind the door with a 1/4" foam strip. The foam compresses enough to allow the shelves to "click" in, yet holds them securely. You could do without the top and bottom pieces, as the shelves would hold the sides in place...just a little trickier to install. In short, there is no "wrong" way to install them, as it's like a big lego set;no glue.


If anybody wants a set, please PM me so I can make a list.

Thanks!

Ryan
 
I used 1/4" plywood for my shelves and it worked well. Since the above safe is limited in size you might want to consider plywood to gain a little extra height.

My safe is a bit bigger but still too small. :)

Img_7527.jpg
 
Wrong Way said:
What I did was cut them so the overall width was 1/4" short of the overall width of the safe, and backed the side behind the door with a 1/4" foam strip. The foam compresses enough to allow the shelves to "click" in, yet holds them securely. You could do without the top and bottom pieces, as the shelves would hold the sides in place...just a little trickier to install. In short, there is no "wrong" way to install them, as it's like a big lego set;no glue.


If anybody wants a set, please PM me so I can make a list.

Thanks!

Ryan
Click to expand...

:dancingbanana: :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:
 
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