Tokarev strange primer strikes and solution

red_bailey

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Most Tokarev shooters are familiar with the strange marks the firing pin leaves on spent primers. Some worry that there's something wrong with their pistol, or that this will result in increased stress and eventual breakage of the tip of the pin.

As per this post, there was a later re-design of the hammer that attempted to correct this, by machining a slight step/notch on its face to very briefly slow the recoil of the slide and allow the firing pin to retract.

But does it work? How well? Is it possible to retro-fit on examples that were not issued with the new hammer? I decided to do the experiment.

Guns used were a Soviet post-war TT-33, with a smooth hammer, Chinese M213, notched hammer, and Serbian M70A, smooth. A war-time TT-33 with a re-furbished notched hammer was not fired in the test, but its hammer was switched in to the smooth guns.

These have all been cleaned, including scrubbing out the firing pin channel, lubed, and run well.

I fired four shots from each combination, but with the way they eject all the way across the room I was usually only able to keep track of three cases landing, with confidence that I was not mixing them up. It was hard enough having four pistols laid out in pieces and constantly re-assembling them without losing track of parts matches!

I have a bunch more Tokarevs I could throw into the mix, but I think these results speak loudly enough:

The TT was shot with Czech surplus 7,62x25 ('53 head-stamp as you see), first with its own smooth hammer, then the Soviet re-furb notched hammer. You can see the typical drag marks with the smooth hammer, certainly less than on some others' guns that haven't been cleaned as judiciously. Switching to the notched made a real difference; the firing pin is still swiping across the primer as the barrel tilts, but the drag marks visible on all cases are universally weaker.

Tok_primers_01_zpsffb9d867.jpg~original


The Zastava was shot with commercial 9mm ammo, with its smooth hammer, then the Soviet re-furb notched. Commercial primers should be softer than military, but the worst marks only seemed about as bad as the best marks from the TT above. Using the improved hammer, it was reduced to a tiny ding, sometimes barely visible unless under close scrutiny.

Zas_primers_01_zpsb11761c8.jpg~original


The Norinco was shot with commercial 9mm ammo and its notched hammer. Due to the design of its safety lever, the hammer housing needs a cut-out on the bottom of the left plate, so I was not able to switch hammers to a smooth one. However, you can see minimal dings using the improved hammer.

Norc_primers_01_zps53efb494.jpg


Conclusion:

The re-designed hammer works, producing primers that in all cases were dragged on less than with the original design, and in the best cases were barely noticeable. It doesn't work as well with the harder-recoiling surplus 7,62 round.

The next step is to measure the two hammer types, to ascertain whether we can do slight grinding ourselves to replicate the notched design.

All of my (ten) Toks have a firing pin long enough that the tip protrudes if the hammer is pushing fully forward on the striking surface at its rear. This includes the Zastava, which has a different firing pin design, owing to the pin block safety on that pistol. Pin strikes are conspicuously deep; this direct firing pin engagement was deemed to be more desireable in terms of fewer failures to fire under adverse conditions, with potentially lesser life-span compared to an inertial firing pin.
 
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FYI,

These are the steel cores in the projectiles of some military 7,62x25 cartridges (from 1952 Czech surplus), and the result of impacting a 45° steel baffled back-stop:

cores_zps197c58ba.jpg


They tended to bounce only a couple of metres back, but some can certainly make it back to the firing line (with greatly reduced velocity and mass). Anything can ricochet, pieces of copper jacket stripped off in impacting the baffles are often thrown around, but you should be careful on indoor ranges.

This is a proper grade of steel, hard enough that the bullets were not producing noticeable craters or bright damaged metal. If shot at lesser steel, they might penetrate.
 
Nice pics of the recovered cores. I just took my Tokarev out for the first time this week with 50's era Czech ammo. Noticed it left one heck of a mark on a 1/2" steel plate. Much wider and deeper crater than from my 40 cal. I was wondering if the bullet was steel core or steel jacketed, guess this explains it.
 
Thanks for the study. I did suffer firing pin failure in my Polish tok after maybe 1500 rounds. At its best it was wiping as bad or worse than yours.
My replacement pins are 1/16" shorter in the shaft as compared with another pole, as well as being flat top and bottom rather than round on the shaft.

They misfire 50% of the time. I'm thinking of experimenting in making it an inertial firing pin by progressively weakening the firing pin return spring until it works reliably. Needless to say the rounds that do fire with it as it s now have zero wipe marks.
 
Slightly shorter firing pin, slightly weaker firing pin spring will cure the primer drag....think 1911, same idea.
 
thanks for the info! keep us updated on a solution. my question is how many rounds have people fired out their TT33's that drag without any firing pin problems?
 
I have fired over 2k rounds through one of my Toks, and 750 through the other, and both have primer strikes as shown in the initial post.

I have taken apart both guns and see no problems with the firing pins whatsoever.
 
Okay, here's further examination.

The hammer looks like it has an extra notch, but it's actually the edge of a small hump that has been added to the original design. I have illustrated the difference in this simple diagram:

TT-hammer_01_zps3496563f.jpg


On the original design, the recoiling slide pushes back on the hammer at the point where it contacts the rear of the firing pin, which keeps the pin's tip protruding into the primer.

The up-dated design utilizes the same striking face, but the recoiling slide contacts the hump first, which jolts the hammer back from the pin, and allows it to retract just a fraction of a second earlier.

As such, it is not really possible to machine an existing smooth hammer to produce a humped hammer. You could theoretically weld on a small blob of metal and grind it to shape, but that seems like a lot of work: it would have to be placed exactly so the hump didn't engage the firing pin, or interfere near the pivot point, and not be so tall as to prevent the hammer from fully striking the pin (I measured about 0,2mm).
 
my question is how many rounds have people fired out their TT33's that drag without any firing pin problems?

I'm a case of surplus and counting through (mostly) two 7,62 pistols, and a bunch of 9mm in some others. Nothing broken yet.

Nice post, is it possible to purchase a later notched hammer as an aftermarket upgrade?

I haven't seen such specified; you could try asking the usual suppliers of TT parts (TradeEx and Marstar) if the ones in their inventory are smooth or not. There are some suppliers in the U.S.A. for Tokarev parts, but I haven't investigated too much since I've found scant few that will ship internationally. Or you can keep buying pistols until you find one re-furbished with the hammer hump!

I've thought about it some more, and probably the easiest way to manufacture your own would be to find a tiny dome-headed machine screw, drill and tap the face of the hammer and LocTite it in there. Size and placement would still be key.

Otherwise you might grind away the striking surface, leaving behind a hump of the original material. I'm not going to try that, and it has a real possibility of making the hammer not function, or at least not fully strike the firing pin.
 
I just looked at my 54 and 55 polish toks, 54 has the flat hammer and 55 has the "wavey or hump on it, hoping we can find a supplier of improved hammers or hammer groups!
 
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