Tokarev Svt 1940

The Hungarian is definitely corrosive and that's all I've fired from my SVT40. The best and easiest way to clean the SVT is to strip it down (not that hard really once you've done it a couple times), and foam it with the foaming gun cleaner. No scrubbing of small parts. Foam, leave for a while, then wipe off foam. Foam on foam off. The foam gets into the nooks and crannies and neutralizes the salts.

I bought my SVT from a member of this board and recieved it with the gas system rusted solid! Once I cleaned and fixed it, I've used nothing but the foaming cleaner with no additional rust since.
 
Thanks for the information guys, this puts my mind at ease about taking my 'new' gun out to the range. Any opinions on which bullet weight is best for reliable operation and accuracy, 148 vs 175 gr?
 
Claven2 said:
Plate test: Pull bullet and powder. Fire primed case against a bare steel plate. Place plate in a non-dehumidifed environment and wait to see if it rusts within a day or two.

SVT v. M1 carbine cleaning???? Are you serious?? NO M1 carbine ammo is corrosive. BANG BANG BANG - quick patch down the bore, and keep on going. MAYBE detail strip every couple thousand rounds.

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Careful now Claven...

NO AMERICAN M1 carbine ammo is corrosive.

I'm not so sure about all of the French or South American ect. stuff...

I didn't like the fluted chamber & I hated the muzzle break (also known as the UN-silencer).

Besides I was trying to save my boxer brass for the Moisin, so the SVT went away to a new home after a few years...
 
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Ok, well then let me say that all Decent (ie, anything WORTH shooting) M1 carbine ammo is non-corrosive.

Ammo made by countries that only drop their rifles and retreat as soon as the hint of a badguy presents itself could be made to ANY standard. Who knows what some tin pot dictator spec'd his ammo factories to produce...
 
They now have the prices listed. Two are $449, two are $1299 (with scope)!!!! WHy so much for the scoped rifles???
 
The scoped ones are sniper REPRODUCTIONS. Not originals. Someone in Germany where these things have been brokered has figured out that slapping on a $200 repro mount and a $250 repro scope and then stamping them matching can make a $450 rifle into a $1200 rifle and someone will be foolish enough to buy it ;)

FWIW, ANYONE with a rifle that has the siderail machine cuts can "make" a fake sniper by getting parts from Cole's, Century, e-bay, etc. and two minutes with a dremel and stamp set will make it "work".

Lesson: Either get your mind at ease with fake snipers, or only buy non-refurb SVT snipers from reputable sources.

To P&S' credit, they clrealy state that those snipers are REPROS. Unlike certain other Canadian dealers who are outright lying about them.... food for though.
 
Claven2 said:
The scoped ones are sniper REPRODUCTIONS. Not originals. Someone in Germany where these things have been brokered has figured out that slapping on a $200 repro mount and a $250 repro scope and then stamping them matching can make a $450 rifle into a $1200 rifle and someone will be foolish enough to buy it ;)

FWIW, ANYONE with a rifle that has the siderail machine cuts can "make" a fake sniper by getting parts from Cole's, Century, e-bay, etc. and two minutes with a dremel and stamp set will make it "work".

Lesson: Either get your mind at ease with fake snipers, or only buy non-refurb SVT snipers from reputable sources.

To P&S' credit, they clrealy state that those snipers are REPROS. Unlike certain other Canadian dealers who are outright lying about them.... food for though.
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Yeah, it said they don't match
 
One other thing about SVT-40s.
They are first generation military S/As, and have some of the cute characteristics that we all love. Mine would slam fire with some ammo. Ripping off a 3 or 4 round burst is a sure way to de-constipate yourself. As it happened without warning, the damn rifle rose up to about a 45 degree angle as the last round in the mag fired. I missed the overhead in the range by inches. The other guys shooting were VERY impressed, they all moved away to give me LOTS of room!

My '49 FN in 30-06 did the same thing once, but I went to a 2 piece firing pin and it never did it again. I had the '49 in the days before the mag had to be pinned. Fortunately I was shooting prone when it ripped off an 8 round burst!
 
Rubikahn said:
Yeah, it said they don't match
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I've examined two and both were complete refurbs with parts matched with EP'd numbers.

The locking key for the scope mounts on these are a poorly cast repro with no spring tension at all. Guaranteed to fall out and get lost.
 
Here's another odd question.
What is the proper sling for the SVT-40, does a russian dog-collar maintain historical accuracy?
 
Skippy said:
Here's another odd question.
What is the proper sling for the SVT-40, does a russian dog-collar maintain historical accuracy?
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Proper sling for the SVT is this one:
http://www.rollanet.org/~stacyw/russian_svt40_sling.htm

Soviet Naval Infantry had SVTs equipped with a sling slot similar to the Mosin and used a dog collar sling.

The accs commonly found with currently inported SVTs are for the M91/30

Historical accuracy? The dog collar 91/30 slings were employed for SVT if the normal sling was not available as it beat having no sling.
 
Still looking for any opinions on which milsurp ammo to buy for the SVT-40, 148 gr or 175 gr? Any difference for reliable operation, and accuracy? My internet search has come up with a couple of different answers for what this gun was designed for. I would assume troops issued same ammo as used for Mosin-Nagant, but then some of my assumptions have gotten me into trouble in the past!:eek:
 
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The hungarian heavy ball is pretty hot stuff, I think it was designed for machine guns. Probably wouldn't be the best choice for a semi like the SVT.....increased wear.
 
If your SVT or SAFN or ANY semi-auto rifle is "ripping off 3- and 4-round bursts" and you have checked and there is nothing wrong with the trigger mech, this is a sure-fire sign of HIGH PORT PRESSURE.

What is happening is that the bolt-carrier is being slammed back so fast that it is COMPRESSING itself when it hits the back of the trough-shaped frame, and the frame itself is STRETCHING. When all this compressed energy is released, it propels the bolt carrier forward so fast that the firing-pin drifts forward and sets off the primer......... sometimes with the bolt in an UNLOCKED CONDITION. This can self-destruct your rifle in one awful hurry.

If you are fortunate and the condition has not reached an extreme, you can avoid anything like this happening by the simple method of ADJUSTING THE AMOUNT OF GAS USED TO OPERATE THE SYSTEM.

That's why the rifle has an adjustable gas system.

This same serious condition can arise in rifles such as the FN-FAL, but the rifle will not "full-auto" (which it isn't doing, anyway: it is slam-firing) owing to the split receiver.

Gas adjustment is important on most gas-operated rifles. The Garand gets away from this problem by having the gas take-off at the muzzle. The M-14 gets away from this problem by having a "self-adjusting" piston, that is, a piston with its own gas cutoff as a part of its geometry.

The best gas adjustment for ANY adjustable rifle is to have the rifle throwing the empty brass out of the rifle a couple of feet. No more. If your rifle is tossing its brass 30 yards, brother, you've got a problem.

Above written from many years of problem-solving with Garands, M-14s, SAFNs, FALs, Kar-43s and others. Have fun.

Better yet, get a Ross: no gas problems at all and more accuracy than any semi-auto. If your bullet HITS, you only need one. (Yeah, I know, the other 29 are just so darned much fun!)
 
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