Tokarev TT-33 troubleshooting and modification thread

9mm snap caps work just fine in these btw they just rest on the shoulder of the chamber, bodies are pretty much the same length
 
9mm snap caps work just fine in these btw they just rest on the shoulder of the chamber, bodies are pretty much the same length

I just tried this, and no go. The 9mm dummy does not fully enter the chamber, and the slide will not return to battery; the trigger will not set, and the hammer will not fall. When I tried to push the slide forward, still nothing, and then I had to push the jammed dummy out from the muzzle with a rod.

This was only on one TT (didn't want to go to the other safe and un-lock the others), but neither the pink aluminium ones nor the brass-rimmed polymer ones with the springs functioned. You sure they work for you?

(They work in my 9mm Tokagypt, though.)
 
Here are a couple split ring punchs I made up
1a5b408ec11eea2733f8208efb33495f_zps04d74027.jpg


One is 1/8 and the other is 5/32. Crude but they work
 
I just tried this, and no go. The 9mm dummy does not fully enter the chamber, and the slide will not return to battery; the trigger will not set, and the hammer will not fall. When I tried to push the slide forward, still nothing, and then I had to push the jammed dummy out from the muzzle with a rod.

This was only on one TT (didn't want to go to the other safe and un-lock the others), but neither the pink aluminium ones nor the brass-rimmed polymer ones with the springs functioned. You sure they work for you?

(They work in my 9mm Tokagypt, though.)
Blue colored brass rimmed version works in mine. Loaded from the mag of course....these are controlled round feed pistols, I put one in the mag and release the slide just like loading a round.http://www.shooters.com.au/img/productImages/610328.jpg
 
Blue colored brass rimmed version works in mine. Loaded from the mag of course....these are controlled round feed pistols, I put one in the mag and release the slide just like loading a round.http://www.shooters.com.au/img/productImages/610328.jpg

I investigated further, and the problem is mostly the pistol's extractor. If it doesn't go over the cartridge rim and lock into the groove, the slide is not in battery and thus no click.

Measuring actual rounds of 9x19mm and 7,62x25mm I found the 9mm to be about 0,2mm wider in diameter, with a slightly thicker rim before the groove.

Loading the 9mm dummy rounds with the full force of the recoil spring, the softer plastic ones worked most of the time. This is because they can slightly de-form to fit far enough into the chamber, then the extractor rips them out. But the rigid metal dummies are not recommended at all; I already mentioned they get stuck in the chamber, but pushing them in forcefully makes this much worse: with a round stuck in the chamber and an extra large rim under the extractor, the whole apparatus locks together and the slide is jammed. I had to dis-assemble the pistol and give some light taps with a brass punch to separate them.


I suppose depending on the tolerances and wear on your pistol and dummies it might work better or worse for you. However, I would consider this un-necessary stress on the extractor in any case, so you will be risking breaking that part.
 
Just bought a "new" polish model. The finish is not bad on it but I'm curious what have people done to improve it. Anyway to get it looking like it just came off the production line?

I would like to know this too, I just bought a TT33 unissued from Kelly's - great to deal with by the way but I upon receiving the gun I found shine spots where the finish had come off the slide. I imagine it was from rubbing in the crate as finish has come off but the metal is not scratched or anything. I have no complaints its a surplus firearm, its old and its going to be a shooter but if I could fix these spots with a little work I would sooner do it than leave it.

Any thoughts?
 
How does one polish a feed ramp? I'm new to pistols and have been having jamming and feeding issues, and I'm told to polish the feed ramp, but where should I polish and with what?

Also, with the amount of spare parts I have, I will be building a hybrid Russian Chinese Tok in 9mm. Is there any concern mounting a Norc Slide and barrel with a Russian frame? I assume everything that fits in well I will be ok, but I don't want to risk it and blow off my hand either!
 
Im looking to get a modern holster for my TT33 (which im waiting for a transfer on so i dont have it yet) I have heard that a 1911 holster may work. Anyone have any luck with that? I was looking at the following holster on ebay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-OWB-B...639?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7a95a127

What do you guys think?


I found a fitted Holster on Gunbroker.com ships from SunCrafts out of Thailand. It was $25 shipped! I haven't received it yet but its advertised as a custom fit for the Tok and even has a pic of one holstered. Check it out at http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=331240808. I'll let you know how it fits and quality once i receive it... maybe 2-3 years form now ;)
 
How does one polish a feed ramp? I'm new to pistols and have been having jamming and feeding issues, and I'm told to polish the feed ramp, but where should I polish and with what?

Also, with the amount of spare parts I have, I will be building a hybrid Russian Chinese Tok in 9mm. Is there any concern mounting a Norc Slide and barrel with a Russian frame? I assume everything that fits in well I will be ok, but I don't want to risk it and blow off my hand either!


Polish with a Dremmel buffing wheel, no sandpaper. ramp should be mirror smooth. But I don't think it matters in a Tok. I think the round is guided to the chamber. No?

If the parts you want to interchange will interchange both ways you should be good to go. I am running a Russian trigger group in my Polish pistol at the moment.
 
Hi, new to pistols and just purchased an "new" unissued 1953 polish TT-33.

A few questions:

1. Field stripped it in the store and it looked pretty clean no traces of Cosmo. Do I need to strip it down completely just in case. If so, can anybody point me to some reference material? I'm old school so would prefer a document rather than a YouTube video but would be happy with either.
2. If I strip it down and find some Cosmo any comments on the hot water vs. WD-40 vs. G96 methods of removing?
3. What are the ongoing regular maintenance concerns and/or are there any helpful hints?

Thanks in advance

I shot mine with just a patch through the barrel to make sure it was dry. Works fine.

But, for guns that do have traces of oil and cosmo, I used a spray can of carb or brake cleaner from Cambodian Tire. It disolves grease well.
 
I haven't shot mine yet. I have stripped it and cleaned all the parts with solvent and put a nice coat of oil on it and its sitting in my safe waiting for my Prob shoots to be over and my ATT to be delivered.
 
Going to the range today, with among other things, my Russian refurb and one of my Polish toks. The refurb was stovepiping and I will be fiddling with it. I bought 4 spring kits from wolfe plus some mag springs. So I will be shooting as is and then changing to the new spring and seeing if it makes a difference! I can tell you now that the new springs are around 3/4 of an inch longer, however that may mean nothing in regards to the compressed spring pressure.
Beautifull sunny windless day here in N.S Should be fun!
Cheers Bob
 
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