Tool substitute for removing 10/22 firing pin?

J

"J" man

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Hello guys,

I recently bought myself a 10/22 SS carbine, and I'm trying to disassemble everything to give it a thorough clean and lube. I had success with taking everything apart, with the exception of not being able to remove the firing pin out of the bolt. I'm kind of on a budget (don't want to buy a punch set right now), and I would like to know what I can use as a safe substitute to safely tap the hollow roll pin out of the bolt to release the firing pin without damaging anything in the process. The larger roll pins where solid and I was able to use a rounded square head screwdriver to punch them out with. I even used a roll pin to hammer out another roll pin, but they where solid and harder to mar. The hollow roll pin holding the firing pin inside the bolt is not solid, and I'm afraid that if I use the same technique, I might deform and mar the pin causing damage. My question is what can I use as a substitute to successfully take the tiny, hollow roll pin out with in a pinch?

P.S. I plan on leaving the trigger unit assembled. Should I be taking it apart as well, or can I get away with not having to clean and lube it? I plan on using Remington dry lube in the action, and Outers tri-lube for the bore and externals. Is this a good idea? Any suggestions would help this newbie out. Thanks in advance!
 
Use a pin punch set, they are fairly cheap & you can use them a lot in the future if you plan to tinker with guns. Dont disassemble the trigger group unless you need to & make sure the ejector is in the trigger housing notch when reassembling!
 
Thank you sir. Do I have to go to a specialty store to get a pin punch set, or would a local Canadian Tire or Home Depot have them?
 
I used a rock and a rivet on the tailgate of my truck. Nothing special is needed, just something strong enough yet small enough.
 
you can get a brass punch set at princess auto for about 5 bucks. And you don't need to take your firing pin out, just give the bolt assembly a good shot of brake clean.
 
I don't think my plastic trigger housing would do well with break cleaner, unfortunately my 10/22 isn't like they used to make them. But I did buy a spray bottle of Simple Green, and I've heard it works very well on cutting grease. Haven't tried it yet, but I've heard it is safe on aluminum and plastic. I'll let you guys know how it turned out. Thanks for the Princess Auto tip, almost forgot about them.

I'm going to spray every component down (minus trigger group) with Simple Green, and let it soak in for half an hour before I start to brush everything. Then I'll rinse the parts in extremely hot water. After that, I will lay the parts out on a paper towel and blow dry the heck out of it. Then I'll lube the action with Remington dry-lube, and clean the bore out with Outers tri-lube (CLP). Then I'll put everything back together and use Outers to clean and oil the outside of the barreled action before I'll throw on the stock. Trigger will not be touched. How do these steps sound? Am I missing something. Any tips on proceedure, something I'm forgeting to do?

My 10/22 is stainless steel, should I be using a different type of lube for stainless steels?

P.S. Should I take the barrel apart from the receiver when cleaning? If so, Is CLP good to oil the perch with when sliding the barrel back in or do I need something thicker? I noticed the aerosol Outers tri-lube is thin and evaporates quickly.
 
Don't waste any money on that fancy gun lube. Just use ATF of engine oil. Nice thing about those princess auto punches is they are soft junk... Which in this case is ok, less marring if you slip. I wouldn't oil the firin pin either.
 
Awesome, thanks for the info guys. And yes, I went to Princess Auto and picked some punches up real cheap. Thanks for the tip, cause I went to crappy tire and noticed theyre really expensive there. Oh....and Merry X-mas guys!
 
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