Tools Needed For AR Assembly???

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50calshooter

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I'm getting ready to assemble my AR as all the parts have arrived. Do I need special AR specific punches for this job or is it just everyday normal tools I can buy at my local hardware store... Also could you guys give me a run down of every single tool I'm guna need to do this job, Basically a shopping list... ;)
 
I recommend going to the Brownell's website and watching their videos an AR assembly. Very informative and will outline what you need for tools. Substitutions can be made on certain tools Im sure. I've got one to assemble myself.
 
I did mine in 15 minutes with a couple of cheap punches a little mallet and a pair of needle nose pliers... It's not difficult at all.
 
Are you assembling both the upper and lower, or just one? The tools for assembling a lower are: some punches, a non-marking hammer, something to attach the pistol grip - could be a blade screwdriver or allen key - and a carbine stock wrench (if you're assembling a carbine stock to the lower). For the upper, you'll need a receiver vise block, barrel nut wrench, wrench for the F/H (peel washer to time it), depending on how you ordered the parts you may need your punches, a bolt assembly tool etc. DPMS makes an all-in -one wrench that I've read good reviews of, or you can just buy the Brownells deluxe AR kit. I know for a fact that you can assemble the lower using a Lee case trimmer, a hammer, some tape (to stop scratches) and a blade screw driver - and you can do it on a lunch break. :D
 
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50calshooter said:
I'm getting ready to assemble my AR as all the parts have arrived. Do I need special AR specific punches for this job or is it just everyday normal tools I can buy at my local hardware store... Also could you guys give me a run down of every single tool I'm guna need to do this job, Basically a shopping list... ;)
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Aside from the Brownell's vids the next best thing is the step by step guide over at arf.com:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

Lists the tools and gives hints and suggestions.
 
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Extra-heavy duty armorers wrench provides easier installation and removal of all barrels up to 1¼" diameter with either encapsulated or peg-style barrel nuts. Extra-long handle features smooth, contoured edges for comfortable use. Includes ½" square drive opening for torque wrench application; 5⁄8" and ¾" slots fit receiver extensions and A1/A2 flash suppressors .223 for AR-15/M16 applications, .308 for use with AR-Style .308 rifles.
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Then all you need is a butstock wrench and you are in business!
 
I'll be able to tell you after this weekend.

Got LPK and buttstock wrench (I think that is what it is) coming in from Qustar.

So far have used a flat head screw driver with long shaft to install grip.

Tool list for upper is continuing to convince me to buy a completed upper.
 
GSoD said:
Tool list for upper is continuing to convince me to buy a completed upper.
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That's why there are more stripped lowers sold than stripped uppers, the lower is really easy, and not very picky about tools. The upper really does need the right tools
 
There's also a step-by-step video that details the assembly of a lower at http://www.lifelibertyetc.com/RangeBag.aspx . I recommend that you perform this task in a room that is relatively free of junk piles, large furniture, and floor mounted air circulation grates. Regardless of how careful you are, you're going to send at least one of the small springs flying across the room. :redface:

If you're naturally clumsy, I suggest that you wear eye protection. :eek:
 
Only specialized tools I have are one of the wrenches, and a pair of aluminum barrel blocks. These have been sufficient.
 
You don't "need" the buttstock wrench to tighten the recoil tube nut.

Mine came loose a few times, I used some locktight on it and I used a small hammer and a flat head screw driver.
With the corner of the flat head, position it onto one of the recesses in the nut and position it so that you are just tapping it tight. Rotate the rifle whatever way so that you have leverage and tap it tight from an angle.
It's hard to explain, but if you put electrical tape on the end of the screw driver tip, you will not mar the nut recesses, and it will go on tight enough to never be loose again.


I have never built and upper, but from what I can see you must have a tool to get that apart, like the action block and barrel wrench.
 
First AR barrel I acquired had been removed from the upper using a punch and hammer on the barrel nut. This is NOT a good idea.
 
Having bent and thrown out may crappy punches, the best advice I can give you is buy a set of Starrett brand puches in 1/8" and 1/16" .1/4" and 3/32" are also handy. Any machine shop supply stores, Brownells etc will have those

Also very handy is a set of roll pin punches. The have a small tit in the center to keep them lined up in a roll pin. Once you use them you will never drive a roll pin with a conventional punch. Its a about $25 for a set

An AR multi tool wrench and a upper reciever block is a must. I prefer the DPMS upper block rather than the clamshell style. You can get buy without the upper block if you are only doing one or two uppers I guess.

The cheapest decent carbine stock wrench is the RRA that is less than $10 at Brownells

Brownells also has a very handy polyethylene bench block for setting parts on when you drive out pins
 
TRG-42 said:
Having bent and thrown out may crappy punches, the best advice I can give you is buy a set of Starrett brand puches in 1/8" and 1/16" .1/4" and 3/32" are also handy. Any machine shop supply stores, Brownells etc will have those

Also very handy is a set of roll pin punches. The have a small tit in the center to keep them lined up in a roll pin. Once you use them you will never drive a roll pin with a conventional punch. Its a about $25 for a set

An AR multi tool wrench and a upper reciever block is a must. I prefer the DPMS upper block rather than the clamshell style. You can get buy without the upper block if you are only doing one or two uppers I guess.

The cheapest decent carbine stock wrench is the RRA that is less than $10 at Brownells

Brownells also has a very handy polyethylene bench block for setting parts on when you drive out pins
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where do you get these roll pin punches?
 
50calshooter said:
where do you get these roll pin punches?
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If you search Brownells for "roll pin puches" you will find a bunch of choices

I have the Brownells brand ones . They are made in the USA and very tough

Don't wan't to get in trouble for hotlinking non sponsers so you will have to cut and paste

brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=20640&title=ROLL%20PIN%20STARTER%20PUNCHES

The little tit keeps the roll pin form collapsing in. Well worth the money
 
TRG-42 said:
If you search Brownells for "roll pin puches" you will find a bunch of choices

I have the Brownells brand ones . They are made in the USA and very tough

Don't wan't to get in trouble for hotlinking non sponsers so you will have to cut and paste

brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=20640&title=ROLL%20PIN%20STARTER%20PUNCHES

The little tit keeps the roll pin form collapsing in. Well worth the money
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up appreciate it....


gunbuny said:
50 cal shooter if you live in edmonton i bought my rollpin punches at P and D for 20 bucks. Or you can borrow mine.
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Thanks man, thats very kind of you, i'll let you know... ;)
 
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