Tools required to build an AR-15

thegrandpoohbah

thegrandpoohbah

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What is the bare minimum that would be required? I have all the basics such as screw drivers, a torque screw driver, wrenches, punches, etc. I don't have a workbench with a vice but I do have access to one. Problem there is that I can't transport the lower, I would only be able to use it for the upper. Would that be an issue? What other specialized tools would I need?
 
I have a torque wrench too. No idea what a go, no go gauge is though. I was looking at the Magpul BEV block and armourer wrench. Would those be ok or is there a better alternative for that kind of money?
 
The only unique tools you need are an upper receiver vice block and a barrel nut wrench. No special tools are required for the lower, unless you consider the spanner for a carbine extension nut to be "specialized ".
 
thegrandpoohbah said:
I have a torque wrench too. No idea what a go, no go gauge is though. I was looking at the Magpul BEV block and armourer wrench. Would those be ok or is there a better alternative for that kind of money?
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Those are fine, you're not opening an assembly plant. I'd avoid the super cheap stuff (cast white metal wrenches are never a good plan) but the Magpul wrench works fine.
 
thegrandpoohbah said:
I have a torque wrench too. No idea what a go, no go gauge is though. I was looking at the Magpul BEV block and armourer wrench. Would those be ok or is there a better alternative for that kind of money?
Click to expand...


Your going to want a good vise, I use a machinist vise with smooth jaws so it doesnt have any teeth to chew into tools of vise blocks etc, but you can get a vise pretty damn cheap these days

For my first AR build I used a Brownells "clam shell" upper vise block and magwell block combo, and an armors wrench from Brownells also. It worked ok and is probably great for standard forged uppers, but the upper vise block didn't fit my billet upper properly. They were the cheaper option at the time and will get the job done. I already owned a Snap-on torque wrench, so I already had that covered. I also bought Brownells bolt catch pin punch, it makes driving that pin in and out much easier, little expensive but has been worth it for me

I have since invested in better tools, I just got a reaction rod from Geissele to replace the Brownells upper vise block for tightening barrel nuts. Very expensive but works much better for me since I have billet uppers. And I have a Spikes tactical buffer tube castle nut tool, and some specific barrel nut wrenches from Daniel Defense and SLR rifelworks for my rails...
 
That's what I'm doing I was able to assemble my lower without a vice block I did however use a scrap piece of wood to help install the trigger guard as I didn't want to break the ears. I've got a magpul BEV in the mail and am borrowing a friends workshop and taking just the upper there. Other tools I have is an armour's wrench, a set of wheeler pivot and roll pin install tools, a hammer and some punches. When you're looking at torque wrenches make sure you get one that goes as low as 30 lbs per foot, the one I have for to change tires and such starts at 50. Good thing the friend who's workshop I'm borrowing has one that goes down to 30.
 
Bench vise, upper clamp block and barrel wrench as the minimum to do a good job. I had a lower vise block when I built mine and never even opened the wrapper. Next on the list would be a torque wrench. I never bothered with go/no go gauges for headspace as there isn't really any adjustment... Flame away!
 
You don't need a whole lot of tools to build an AR-15
I used a hammer, armorers wrench, a punch and a few screw drivers. You don't need to worrie about head space if the barrel comes with the extension already attached. Toque wrench is good, but not necessary, I think the torque specs are 40 Ft'Lb for the barrel nut, which is not super tight.
 
Bare minimum: Armourers wrench (not needed if you use a free floated forend with a proprietary barrel nut that comes with it's own wrench), straight wall punch set and a small hammer. You can make a barrel vise out of wood to hold the barrel while tightening the barrel nut.
Tighten the barrel nut till the notches line up with the gas tube hole. Loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten until it's tight and lines up.

What you should use is a reaction rod which you put in a vise and it engages the barrel extension preventing the barrel from turning while you tighten the barrel nut. A reaction rod is far superior to the clamshell upper holder or the upper holders that hold the top rail because there is no twisting force applied to the upper receiver while tightening the barrel nut.
The only thing needed to put together the lower is a punch set. A castle nut wrench (usually part of the armourers wrench) is nice but if you don't care about messing up the notches in the nut you can just give it a couple whacks with the punch and hammer.

You don't need go/no go gauges, I was told by the owner a very well known high end firearms manufacturer in Canada that as long as a round will chamber easily you are good to go. As was mentioned earlier, if you are installing the barrel extension yourself then proper headspacing must be checked but if you are buying a complete barrel then you'll be fine with any in spec bolt.

Go on YouTube and watch a couple vids before you start, it's quite simple.
 
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