Top Strap leading

Every revolver will lead the topstrap. It is a result of the cylinder to barrel gap. Could be improved with improving of the forcing cone, but any leading in the barrel indicates either lube problems or trying to drive the lead too fast for its hardness.
Dr Jim
 
I agree with T&G. The accuracy problem may very well result from barrel leading. It's a common enough situation, and even small patches of lead can cause problems. I don't use lead bullets any more, but when I did I always used a gas check on the base to eliminate leading as much as possible. Worked pretty well. Getting lead out of the barrel is a real chore, but it's important to do.
 
I'd take it to my friendly neighbourhood S&W expert (after shooting) it may be that your forcing cone needs smoothing out, or that some other minor issue is rearing it's ugly head. Have Wortners look at it for you.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies.
Sorry, I should have worded the accuracy problem a bit different. It shoots consistant low and to the right, shot after shot, from a benchrest. I've adjusted the rear sight all the way to the left, and still am not able to correct the problem.

That is starting to sound like a mis-alignment of the cylinder and barrel. Check with a range-rod, and if it does not go smoothly into each cylinder, you have a mis-alignment and need to take it to a competent smith.
Dr J
 
I think I got the problem solved. I reloaded some lighter 40 S&W rounds, did a real good cleaning, and the leading is mostly gone, and accuracy is now good. :)
 
Before you send your gun anywhere, try wrapping a piece of copper scouring pad around a bore brush and use that to remove the lead fouling from your bore and cylinder throats. One solution to severe leading is to use gas check bullets rather than plain base. Leading mostly comes from the melting of the base of the bullet, the lead is then suspended in the propellant gasses and deposited along the barrel, this is why fouling is worse in the chamber throat, forcing cone and first part of the barrel than it is nearer the muzzle. Cutting a Taylor throat in the barrel might help, but I doubt that you need it, as the purpose is to improve accuracy by allowing the bullet to fully enter the barrel before it engages the rifling, rather than to decrease lead fouling. You could try using a smaller amount of faster powder, but this will not allow you to use the maximum power of the cartridge. Ensure that you bullet diameter matches the diameter of the chamber throat, as a loose bullet will foul from flame cutting if a seal is not made between the base of the bullet and the chamber walls. If the bullet is too hard, it will not expand under pressure to make a good barrel seal, if it is too soft, it is more prone to melting at the base, so choose the correct hardness for your application, softer for gallery loads and harder for full powered loads.
 
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