Torque for Scope Rings

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peterdobson

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We are preparing used scopes for sale and one Sightron with Nightforce rings is torqued so hard that so far we have been unable to remove one of the top-half ring screws, even with a Fix it Stick T-Handle and application of penetrating oil.

Nightforce told me that most warranties have to do with improper mounting. Manufacturers specify torque settings for a reason. Apparently this owner avoided proper procedure and may have used red loctite. No loctite is recommended for top-half of rings.

Read instructions and use a torque device with quality bits!

Regards,

Peter
 
Did you try using heat to loosen up the bond?
I've had good success with using a soldering iron to really heat up the screws and break the bond to get them moving.
Might be worth a shot although if they did used Red Loctite that's not a good situation..............
 
peterdobson said:
We are preparing used scopes for sale and one Sightron with Nightforce rings is torqued so hard that so far we have been unable to remove one of the top-half ring screws, even with a Fix it Stick T-Handle and application of penetrating oil.

Nightforce told me that most warranties have to do with improper mounting. Manufacturers specify torque settings for a reason. Apparently this owner avoided proper procedure and may have used red loctite. No loctite is recommended for top-half of rings.

Read instructions and use a torque device with quality bits!

Regards,

Peter
Click to expand...

Before you start drilling, get the ring supported as best you can on a wood block. Use either a proper size Torx tool bit, or a squarely ground punch, then use a small ball pein hammer and drive down on the screw. Do this several times and keep trying a respectful amount of torque. It may come loose. Repeat as necessary. You could also use as much heat as you think the ring finish will stand, and also not transfer to the scope. The scope being the prize here.

If you drill off the head, and the screw is loctited, you will likely have lost the ring's lower half, as it will be nearly impossible to get the remains of the screw out.
 
Try applying heat from a torch. I had a similar problem and the heat focused on the underside of the rings helped to loosen the screws. Don't apply the heat too long otherwise everything expands, including the screws.
 
I just had an instance with an off-center base causing a bit of tube crush to a scope when torqued to 18in.lbs. Ended up with some debris in the scope as a result on recoil (.300 Wby Mag).

I just had the scope replaced and double-checked the base alignment before torqueing the replacement scope into the rings, this time to 17in./lbs. No thread locker used on the fasteners, but acetone seems to eat through Locktite pretty easily.
 
Thanks for input. We were able to loosen screws with penetrating oil - 2 types and high amount of torque with quality torx bits. We have bent cheap bits and this is an example of why quality kit should be used.

Regards,

Peter
 
peterdobson said:
Thanks for input. We were able to loosen screws with penetrating oil - 2 types and high amount of torque with quality torx bits. We have bent cheap bits and this is an example of why quality kit should be used.

Regards,

Peter
Click to expand...

Not sure if you’ve had experience with Kroil. I’ve used it many times to remove stuck items, like rusted choke tubes in shotguns. Great product
 
The worst rings with 'locked' screws are the old one with Allan headed screws... usually the installer tightened them so hard the socket ended up stripped... and with age the threads really take a 'set'. I Found you usually only have one go at getting the screw out without drilling the head off...

Take a good correctly sized bit and with 600 grit abrasive powder drive it into the stripped head... and then before trying to remove the screw, using a smooth jawed Vice Grip go on a corner of the ring and compress the ring halves... often the screw will easily unscrew when the pressure is relieved.

Screws I thought were 'Loctited in' easily removed...
 
guntech said:
The worst rings with 'locked' screws are the old one with Allan headed screws... usually the installer tightened them so hard the socket ended up stripped... and with age the threads really take a 'set'. I Found you usually only have one go at getting the screw out without drilling the head off...

Take a good correctly sized bit and with 600 grit abrasive powder drive it into the stripped head... and then before trying to remove the screw, using a smooth jawed Vice Grip go on a corner of the ring and compress the ring halves... often the screw will easily unscrew when the pressure is relieved.

Screws I thought were 'Loctited in' easily removed...
Click to expand...

Very clever. Experience is priceless.
 
Experience teaches a lot. One thing you learn is that manufacturer specs are often incorrect. Some are INSANE like Burris'.

I've mounted a lot of scopes for personal use. I find that for most rings, 15-17" lbs is the magic number. No ring marks, no binding when operating the scope's zoom, and yet never moves, even if accidentally dropped while hunting. YMMV for top rings but I like 15-17. For bases to receiver, double it.
 
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