Torque Wrench?

Torque shmorque. I tighten lightly and my scopes don’t move. Here’s why:

I take a latex glove (the white ones) and cut rings from one of the fingers. Cut them just a bit less than the width of your scope rings and install them on your scope to serve as a friction ring between the scope rings and the scope. There is so much friction that jus a little tightening goes a long way. And you don’t have to worry about ring marks on the scope (if ever you wan to sell the scope afterwards).
 
for about 35 years i used the tight enough method. a few years ago i bought a fat wrench. used it ever since. i have never stripped a mount screw or gun screw using either method but i rather like using the torque wrench especially for action screws. i know there the same every time. it takes no longer and gives me a piece of mind.
 
Al Bear said:
Torque shmorque. I tighten lightly and my scopes don’t move. Here’s why:

I take a latex glove (the white ones) and cut rings from one of the fingers. Cut them just a bit less than the width of your scope rings and install them on your scope to serve as a friction ring between the scope rings and the scope. There is so much friction that jus a little tightening goes a long way. And you don’t have to worry about ring marks on the scope (if ever you wan to sell the scope afterwards).
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Until the rubber deteriorates and turns to powder. For the cost of the Wheeler, it's a no brainer and can be used on other stuff besides the scope.
 
Dented scope bodies are generally caused by rings that have not been sqaured to the bases.
One needs a 1inch piece of stainless steel about 14 inches long and rested on the bottom ring.
The top part of the ring then needs to be placed on top of said ss and the process of starting to lock them down (front and rear rings(tops))
To see if said rings are square to the base(s).
After that it all becomes one of you and your hands/fingers and the allen wrenches.
More feel than rocket science or mall ninja voodoo.
Then again there are more ways to skin a cat than I'll even know or want to change my union thug life ways. :)
Tight Screws and even tighter groups,
Rob
 
I had a nice little snap on in 1/4 " in/lbs, my son loved it so much I have not seen it in years.
I have a cheap china one, I don't trust it, My intuition is better I think
 
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Al Bear said:
Torque shmorque. I tighten lightly and my scopes don’t move. Here’s why:

I take a latex glove (the white ones) and cut rings from one of the fingers. Cut them just a bit less than the width of your scope rings and install them on your scope to serve as a friction ring between the scope rings and the scope. There is so much friction that jus a little tightening goes a long way. And you don’t have to worry about ring marks on the scope (if ever you wan to sell the scope afterwards).
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This is a neat idea, going to try it next time.
 
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I use a Snap-on TQS4A 1/4" 0-50 in-lb. dial type driver handle. Bought this years ago for something else and forgot I had it. Works well for scope mounting.

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guntech said:
50 years ago tight screws worked just fine.

Today... as tight as the little wrench will do it works just fine... you still don't need a torque wrench...

Warne offers a cheap little torque wrench with a torx 15 head set for 25 inch pounds. I have had one for many years because my customers think it's needed...
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Really not true. Most wrenches will easily break the threads or strip the heads on the screws they are designed for. Your method is your personal experience and feel that you are using to tighten things, not the strength of your tools or as "tight as they will do".

Less experienced folk using your method will strip lots of screws, cease many steel screws in aluminum holes, and even break, bend or otherwise damage their tools and or toys. Your method is basically trial and error, until you have the right touch to do things without the proper tool, but until you have the proper touch and experience using the proper tool is how you learn without destroying your toys.
 
If one is so numb that they keep tightening a wrench until something breaks, they should find something else to do... if they want to buy an expensive tool to help them, that is fine... but it really is not a necessity.
 
Al Bear said:
Still good after 11 years (no powder). How long will it take to transform to powder? Does the Wheeler thingy cost about a buck fifty?
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Buck fifty is a pretty cheap investment compared to what a scope costs now days. I've seen some installs that looked like they were done with tools that came out of a Cracker Jack box.
 
Al Bear said:
Still good after 11 years (no powder). How long will it take to transform to powder? Does the Wheeler thingy cost about a buck fifty?
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They're like $60 if you don't get it on sale.

Bought one. Didn't feel like I NEEDED it, but I install scopes for friends and stuff and don't want to be responsible for f***ing up someone elses gear.
 
Suther said:
They're like $60 if you don't get it on sale.

Bought one. Didn't feel like I NEEDED it, but I install scopes for friends and stuff and don't want to be responsible for f***ing up someone elses gear.
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Same..i also install scopes for friends .and I let them use it in front of me so they see and get a feel for how tight is tight..
Most regular people never touch their scopes or action screws.
Yes there are non CGN people out there
 
There are a lot of people that have no clue...

If you are a professional... use propper torque.

If you want precision, use exact torque.




With the same rifle I went from 1.2" 20 round average to <.5" average group size by applying correct torque.



That and one expensive spark plug thread repair......


Learn from the experience of others and buy a damn torque wrench.
If you don't care.... please add It to your EE adds

TvhIhjc


:)
 
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No look quite like the look on some dumarse's face when he proceeds to strip out all the holes, because instead of having any feel for the way a screw is when it gets tight, he was pretty sure the torque setting ruled it all!

It works OK when the manufacturer doesn't cheap out on the screws.
 
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