Torquing scope rings...?

[Wally]

Hey Guys, Got some talley one piece rings with my new rifle. I have a very good in-lb torque wrench and was going to torque the base screws and the ring screws but I can't find any talley torque specs. It's going into steel on the receiver and aluminum on the rings.... and Ideas?

I was thinking about 20-30in-lbs.........???

I also have a tube of blue loctite. Any thoughts on using that?

 

[starpuss]

i go , 15-20 on the top of the rings and 60 on the base (in-lbs not foot lb's)

but you may want to see what other ppl post.

 

[Glo7]

I was just reading this article: http://www.snipershide.com/level 15lbs and 65lbs.

 

[Wally]

I was just reading this article: http://www.snipershide.com/level 15lbs and 65lbs.

Yeah I read that but the base bolts on those rings are larger and will therefor get a heavier torque.

Also, I dunno if those rings are Al... or if they are similar alloys... which will also affect torque.

 

[starpuss]

my scope rings , weaver grand slam
there all steel , i have them at 95 for base , and 30 for rings.

 

[redman]

No matter how strong they are, you just need 13-15 in-lbs to hold your scope in place - no point in risking a dent to your scope.

 

[Wally]

No matter how strong they are, you just need 13-15 in-lbs to hold your scope in place - no point in risking a dent to your scope.

OK, I can do 15in-lbs on the caps but what about the bases... bolting into steel. I think the bolts are like M4 or M5 (probably M4)

I want a nice even torque and I don't want to strip anything!

Interesting, but not overly helpful
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=2&i=589

 

[BC_Guy]

If you're talking about screwing the base into the receiver, I've always followed the badger ordnance directions here:
http://www.badgerord.com/folders/downloads/3/Mounting rings and bases.pdf

Basically, clean with rubbing alcohol, bed with blue loctite, and tighten 15inch pounds, or as tight as you can with a t15 holding the short end. If you want to be really anal you can screw the screws in halfway and wait for the loctite to set somewhat, then screw it in the rest of the way. Use q-tips to clean off what squishes out the sides.

Make sure you can still work your bolt (ie- you didn't screw up and put a long screw in front)

For the screws on your your rings, clean rings and screws with alcohol, 15inch pounds with blue loctite on the threads

 

[redman]

IMHO you don't need loctite on the rings... I haven't used it and my scope hasn't budged in a year of shooting. Can't really comment on attaching the rings to the base, though - I have a quick-detach mount, but this might prove relevant to you: http://www.usoptics.com/video/mntHi.wmv

 

[BC_Guy]

IMHO you don't need loctite on the rings... I haven't used it and my scope hasn't budged in a year of shooting.

Couldn't hurt. Better to have and not need than need and not have...

 

[redman]

Forgot to add that my rings are lapped, so maybe I would've needed some were it not the case. The guy in the US Optics vid doesn't seem to think it's necessary, and I recall reading in a gunsmithing book that it's only needed for the screws attaching rings to base. My shooting partner didn't need any loctite either.

BUT, like breaking in a barrel, if it floats your boat, go for it - I won't split hairs over this.

 

[Wally]

OK, I just torqued my "base" screws (into the receiver) at 20in-lbs with a dab of blue loctite on each screw

I then torqued my ring cap screws in at 15in-lbs with no loctite.

thanks for the replies guys.

 

[lineofsight]

Clean your action, make sure no loctite dripped in (would have recommended putting a cloth in there to absorb any extra).

 

[Wally]

Clean your action, make sure no loctite dripped in (would have recommended putting a cloth in there to absorb any extra).

It was the gel type stuff and I only used a tiny bit. Everything still works fine this morning