Total noob question - 300 Win Mag

[Snakehunter]

Just bought a 300 Win Mag and am considering getting into reloading for it.
I have experience loading shotshells, 12 and 20ga. just not rifle cartridges.

My question - looking at ballistic charts from various powder manufacturers I see various loads worked up in 165 and 168gr. bullets. Can somebody enlighten me as to why there is a need for bullets with only 3 grains difference?

I have bought some factory ammo in 165gr. - Fusion by Federal. I will save my cases until I decide whether or not to roll my own.

Thanks for any help,
Glen

 

[ripitup911]

Well I can't comment to much on the 3 gr difference unless it maybe just different bullets working it at those weights. But Someone with more knowledge on that can comment. One recommendation I'd like to give you is I you haven't already purchased that ammo try to stay away from anything with federal brass. Federal brass is usually thought of as the worst brass and there primer pockets open up quickly.

 

[Al-Sway]

In general terms, the 165 grain bullet was developed for hunting as a compromise weight between 150 grain and 180 grain (half way in between). Lots of people found this a useful compromise weight to use in their .308 and .30-06.
The 168 grain weight was developed for target shooting, and the famous Sierra 168 grain BTHP was specifically engineered for 300 m shooting. I don't know, but I suspect that when they were working on the optimal shape for the bullet it came out at 168 grains. Not bad for marketing either.
I would not recommend either for hunting with a .300 Winchester Magnum. In my experience you are better served with a 180 grain bullet, preferably something like a Nosler partition. I cannot speak to lighter bullets in styles such as Barnes TSX.

 

[sgt.rock]

I'd agree with post # 3, and say that almost all 168 gr bullets in 308 cal are target. Long for caliber per se, with a different ballistic coefficient. Tangent vs ogive Shape
I would use minimum 180's too if you are using a regular cup/core bullet. If using a bonded bullet, you can go lighter.
I have been using Hornady GMX 150's and they are awesome so far. X bullets were so-so with my particular gun, so GMX it is. I don't mind smaller weights if they are bonded or monolithic (all metal, I.E. all copper - x bullet, or 95%copper/5%zinc GMX , also called gilding metal. ) they retain virtually all the weight. So 99%(148.5gr) of a 150gr bullet retained weight,is alot more than 62%(111.6gr) of a cup/core 180 gr bullet when you weigh what is left over after impact. Just my thinking. I'd rather have more bullet travelling through the animal than lose a pile of it at the entry wound, blah blah about shock. I want mass to plow through the animal.

 

[Andy]

That's a great round, and a great one to handload.

Choose the bullet based on what it will need to do (e.g. hunting, target, reduced loads for plinking), and then the fun begins as you consider loads from among the many suitable powders available.

As you seek advice on bullet and load, you'll get dozens of different opinions, all good, but you'll find that these things are kind of personal, as you make the final decision.

 

[c-fbmi]

I've been loading for 40 years and have yet to get a good answer to the very same question, Barnes is marketing a 168 gn TTSX hunting bullet which I have used in a 300 Wby with great success, but why it isn't 165 is beyond me. In the old days 168 was usually reserved for MATCH bullets but not any longer, must just be for marketing I guess. 300 Win is a superb cartridge and handloading only improves it but as someone else stated stay away from Federal brass, it really is sh!t. Buy Winchester loaded ammo and you'll have first rate brass to load when you're ready.