TradeEx's Husqvarna .22 - Buy two!

DSN said:
I didn't take my bolt apart, as I haven't been able to figure out how to do that yet - and documentation is pretty scarce on these rifles...

DSN
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Like most things with these, it's surprisingly simple.

1) remove bolt.
2) seize cocking piece in one hand and bolt body in other hand.
3) viewing bolt from behind, rotate cocking piece counterclockwise until arse end of bolt unscrews.

Shazam!

Swear to God, you could probably make one of these in a prison metal shop. So wonderfully cleanly simple.
 
Thanks for the tip regarding taking the bolt down. That worked perfectly and I was able to clean it up a bit more.

I also noticed that I could lighten up the trigger pull a bit, by just having the bolt screwed together enough to get the spring holding threads fully engaged but not overtighted or bottomed out. That way the spring tension wasn't as a high.
 
Some simple gunsmithing

This is just a little update on the one I got from Tradex that had a broken extractor, even though not advertised as having that problem. As mentioned earlier in the thread, Anthony was very good about it and sent me another complete bolt. However that bolt was a bit different, and wouldn't close. Anyways, today being a rainy one and having a little time to spend, I looked it over carefully and decided to go at it myself to trade the extractors. I made a little punch by filing off the point of a 3/4 inch finish nail, and drove out the small pin that holds in the extractor and the firing pin. If you're doing this, be careful, as these 3 parts are very small. The same pin holds both parts in place. It really is a simple design.

As to the replacement bolt, it was different in that it did not have the side groove cut into the bolt that sets the safety when you push the bolt ahead. So not all these bolts are made the same. The replacement bolt comes apart by simply screwing the rear off counterclockwise, as someone explained earlier. However, the bolt that came in the gun and matches serial numbers with the gun does not come apart that way. To get it apart it looks as if you'd need to have, or make, a special tool that would fit a couple small grooves and screw out the back, while holding the cocking hammer back. So I didn't take it apart. There really is no need to take the bolt apart from the rear, to replace the firing pin or extractor.

I decided afterwards to work on the replacement bolt a bit with a file to see if I could make it fit. With some careful filing of the part of the bolt handle that cams down and holds the bolt in the closed position, I was able to get it to close just right so it is snug but too much so. I had to do a bit more filing at the bottom rear of the bolt as it wouldn't open easily over the top of the trigger piece. It now works well, except that it doesn't set the safety when you close the bolt. The safety is really not too useful on these anyways as you'd never dare carry it on safe. I can set the safety on this replacement bolt by pulling the hammer back just a bit further with the thumb from the cocked position, if I want to use it that way. So now I have 2 working bolts, which both work a little differently with regard to the safety, the original bolt having the matching serial number and a straight handle, and the replacement bolt having a bubba'd bent handle. The replacement bolt also has a somewhat longer bolt handle and bigger knob. Of course I still only have the one extractor. I think with a lot of patience, a flat file and a round chainsaw file, I could make another extractor, now that I have a complete one for a pattern. I'm not sure what steel to use that would hold its shape with continual use though.

Maybe this will help someone to work on theirs.

After I got that part done, I took some steel wool and Hoppe's gun oil, and cleaned up the rust and green paint on the barrel and trigger guard. I then took some Windex, as someone else suggested, and cleaned up the wood. It lightened up the color of the wood somewhat. Then I gave it a good coat of Minwax paste finishing wax, and buffed it up some. I didn't want to do any sanding as I wanted to retain the antique well-used look, but make it clean and smelling a bit better. It came out just as I wanted it. I am very pleased with it all in the end - a fun project and a neat old gun. Thanks to the original poster who put me onto this, and thanks to Tradex.
 
It was asked before about barrel length. Mine is 23 7/8" (muzzle to chamber).

The sight length (distance between front and rear sights) is 21"
 
Thanks for all the info guys, and please keep it coming if you have more.

I placed my order for a youth model and am now playing the waiting game. Can't wait to lay my hands on it, I have 20 different types of .22 LR ammo I will try in it to see how good it can shoot. :dancingbanana:

I will post all the specs I can get off it, once I receive it. We'll be able to compare and see if they're all the same, or if there are different variations (other than light/medium heavy/octagonal barrels).
 
How's this service for you? I placed my order last week, not knowing TradeEx was closed. Received a call on Monday, day TradeEX reopened, then came back from work on Wednesday to find out UPS had attempted delivery of my rifle at 10:38AM !!! If that ain't #1 service, I don't know what is! Thank God I was home today, though, so I didn't miss the UPS guy again.

Anyways, here are my Husqvarna Youth .22 specs:

- Weight: 5 1/4 lb
- Barrel (medium wight): 24 3/8"
- Muzzle Diam.: .651"
- Length of pull: 13 7/8"
- Over all length: 41 7/8"
- Trigger pull weight: ~5 - 5 1/4 lb

Trigger pull on mine isn't bad, precise, very little creep, somewhat crisp, but about 3 lb heavier than I'd like. It also has about 1.5 KM of over travel. :(

Wood on mine is some kind of hardwood, certainly not walnut. Bolt and action came a little dirty, but cleaned up very easily in 5 min. Bore was fairly clean (I guess TradeEX had cleaned it in order to be able to tell us its condition before selling it). It has a sliding (toggle) non-auto safety. The only minute spot of rust was found on the left side of the front sling swivel base, underneath the barrel. The rest of the blueing was just as described.

I can't wait to shoot it now, hopefully weather will cooperate this weekend. Mine came with 11 mm dovetail scope bases installed, so I think I'll put a cheap Bushnell .22 scope and see what it can do out to 50 M.
 
Found a website with some interesting info:

http://www.skydevaaben.com/allhvamodels/info.xml

Check out "Miniature Rifles", about 4/5ths down the page. Looks like I'm the proud owner of a "Salongsgevar No. 155 Attkantig Pipe" made sometime between 1921 and 1942.

BTW, finally took this lil' gem to the range and got serious instead of farting around. It hits 4" high @ 25 yards with high velocity stuff, but if you aim correspondingly low, you can trim dandelions and whack 12g. hulls all day long. I've bought some Remington subsonics and some shorts as well and will report how they perform.

Dan
 
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Thanks Dan. I had seen that site before, however my rifle doesn't seem to be on that list. Maybe mine is just a mix of parts from different models. Mine has a round 60cm barrel and a walnut stained beech wood stock without checkering. No such combination on that list.

As for accuracy, I got to shoot mine a couple of time now. Here are the results, so far (average of only 2, 5 shot groups per ammo at 50M):

- Federal Gold Medal: .899"
- RWS Club 22: .879"
- CCI Green Tag: .854"
- Eley Sport: .698"
- Lapua SK 22 Magazine: .601"

Keep in mind that mine has a scope base, so I installed a cheap Bushnell 3-9x32mm scope on it for this test.

I did try high velocity ammo, Federal bulk packed 36gr and Winchester Power Points, but groups looked like shotgun patterns. I also tried low velocity ammo, CCI CB in LR, Long and Short, but results were even worse. That was disappointing, since that is the ammo I originally wanted to use in this rifle. The shorts didn't even make it to the 50M target!

These are nice little rifles, for the price. Here's a couple of extra observations: I don't like the fact that it doesn't eject empty shells out of the action, so I have to roll it around to dump them manually. Also, I wanted to use it as a training rifle for my son, but the stock is way too long for that. And last but not least, I thoroughly cleaned the barrel after my first trip to the range, and that was a mistake. Groups got much larger on the second outing, until I had fired over 100 more rounds, then they gradually started to tighten up again.
 
Project Gun

Well, I've done some work on mine. I bought it as a project gun and I'm quite impressed with the result.

I don't have any pictures to show yet but here's what I've done with it:

1) Glass bedded the receiver and complete barrel channel with JB Weld (I also plugged some "bubba" receiver holes that were tapped for a side mount scope mount with the JB Weld)
2) Re-tapped the barrel screw for a hex head cap screw (allen key) This also required some stock modification
3) Pillar bedded the barrel screw
4) Sanded,stained and re-finished the stock - it's beautiful now!
5) re-cut the crown to an 11 degree target crown
6) re-finished all external metal work with a matte black, highly durable automotive laquer - looks great and very durable
7) removed sling swivels from barrel and stock
8) replaced the rear sight with a "ghost ring" type of peep site from Skinner Sights
9) Sanded and polished all functioning metal work (bolt, sear, pins, etc.)
10) cut a 1/2 turn off the trigger return spring in order to lessen pull weight


I took it to the range the other weekend and I'm pleased with the result - especially with the sight picture now. While I too also noticed a drop in accuracy from extensively cleaning the bore (and all the changes), it is starting to come back as the new crown cut gets worn in and the rifle settles down after all the mods.

Overall, I'm still happy with the rifle and it looks much better now. Time and experimention will tell if my mods helped it at all, but I had fun and learned alot!
 
Dark Alley Dan said:
Found a website with some interesting info:

http://www.skydevaaben.com/allhvamodels/info.xml

Check out "Miniature Rifles", about 4/5ths down the page. Looks like I'm the proud owner of a "Salongsgevar No. 155 Attkantig Pipe" made sometime between 1921 and 1942.


Dan
Click to expand...

Looks like mine is the same name. Serial numbers match on mine with the straight bolt. Mine isn't exactly like yours as it doesn't have the Sakrat word engraved into it though.
 
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