Tradex has a large selection of Schultz and Larson .22s again...
- Thread starter Hitzy
- Start date
How thick must be this shim ?
Well,, this beauty is finally working top notch now!
Few issues to deal with 1st. The rear sight vertical adjustment dial had some internal rusting on the pin which stopped it from moving more than 1/2 a rotation. After some lubricating oil and vice grip action, the knob is now working very well.
2nd was my front sight insert. My guess is that its for a different rifle, or maybe a more modern version like the M70 or 77 S&L.
Its diameter is the same as the several new inserts that I bought off the Nordic Marksman website, but the tabs are a lot bigger! This caused the front sight to sit high in the front sight tube, as seen in the pics. Now,, all is perfect. And this rifle is a real joy to shoot!
I never believed that a single shot, slow to reload rimfire could be so much fun to shoot. And she is a shooter! Very accurate!
Original front sight in sight tube. Lower section of sight sits up too high.
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New front sight,, diff style but check out the diff tab sizes. Sights now flush with sight tube.
Goes to show you. These are purchased from a rifle range. No personal ownership = Lack of care and detail to whats proper for the rifle. But still a sweet deal for the price.
Few issues to deal with 1st. The rear sight vertical adjustment dial had some internal rusting on the pin which stopped it from moving more than 1/2 a rotation. After some lubricating oil and vice grip action, the knob is now working very well.
2nd was my front sight insert. My guess is that its for a different rifle, or maybe a more modern version like the M70 or 77 S&L.
Its diameter is the same as the several new inserts that I bought off the Nordic Marksman website, but the tabs are a lot bigger! This caused the front sight to sit high in the front sight tube, as seen in the pics. Now,, all is perfect. And this rifle is a real joy to shoot!
I never believed that a single shot, slow to reload rimfire could be so much fun to shoot. And she is a shooter! Very accurate!
Original front sight in sight tube. Lower section of sight sits up too high.
[/URLNew front sight,, diff style but check out the diff tab sizes. Sights now flush with sight tube.
Goes to show you. These are purchased from a rifle range. No personal ownership = Lack of care and detail to whats proper for the rifle. But still a sweet deal for the price.
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After being a way for a week i come home to find a new (to me) rifle waiting to be unboxed. Unboxing and looking at the barrel, all i can think is "wow that is a heavy barrel" It looks bigger than most in my safe. So now the real question is:
Complete tear down, cleaning and fine tooth comb or run a couple patches through and shoot it?
Leaning the "shoot it" way right now.
Complete tear down, cleaning and fine tooth comb or run a couple patches through and shoot it?
Leaning the "shoot it" way right now.
A popular choice for the wood is Danish oil. It's a combination of tung oil, linseed oil, and a polymerizing agent. Each brands formulation will be somewhat different. I prefer straight tung oil, others prefer straight boiled linseed oil, and some are using Tru-Oil (a Birchwood Casey product; linseed oil and a polymerizing agent).
Tung oil and Tru-Oil are relatively high gloss. Danish oil runs the gambit. Linseed oil is usually matte to semi-gloss.
Here's mine with straight tung oil:
You can probably use a finish removed to get the original finish off. I tried acetone and it barely put a dent in it and decided to just sand it off.
Tung oil and Tru-Oil are relatively high gloss. Danish oil runs the gambit. Linseed oil is usually matte to semi-gloss.
Here's mine with straight tung oil:
You can probably use a finish removed to get the original finish off. I tried acetone and it barely put a dent in it and decided to just sand it off.
I believe I found the reason why my second S&L bolt would not open after firing. It seems the hammer (?) is 3 mm shorter than it should be. M70 with a M77 trigger group.
I installed the longer one in the second bolt assembly and it worked fine. I made a 3 mm spacer from a drill bit, put in front of the shorter hammer and it functions as it should.
This is just a temporary fix, as I would like to get the correct part in there. I'm thinking there was a bolt swap back in Denmark.
I installed the longer one in the second bolt assembly and it worked fine. I made a 3 mm spacer from a drill bit, put in front of the shorter hammer and it functions as it should.
This is just a temporary fix, as I would like to get the correct part in there. I'm thinking there was a bolt swap back in Denmark.
Anyone found how to remove the extractor ?
I want to remove it to clean the dirt and the last thing I want is to break something...
This morning I also reassembled the trigger group.
I cleaned all the parts and I added shims where required.
Its working and its even better now with almost zero side-to-side play in the sear.
Tomorrow, I should have the time to drill the front swivel and strip the stock.
I also began to do metal work on some other parts.
I want to remove it to clean the dirt and the last thing I want is to break something...
This morning I also reassembled the trigger group.
I cleaned all the parts and I added shims where required.
Its working and its even better now with almost zero side-to-side play in the sear.
Tomorrow, I should have the time to drill the front swivel and strip the stock.
I also began to do metal work on some other parts.
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Have not had to remove the extractor yet, but it was suggested to drift the pin and remove it while in a plastic bag so the parts do not fly across the room. I notice that my M70 with high velocity rounds has a hard time extracting, but does fine with target standard velocity loads.
Anthony was unable to supply me a replacement striker for my bolt not cycling after firing. I was able to take a grade 8 bolt and grind away anything that didn't look like a striker and it is functioning fine now.
These are the M70 and M77 that I received this month, Thanks Tradeex for some real sweet .22's
Now to get my niece out shooting.
Anthony was unable to supply me a replacement striker for my bolt not cycling after firing. I was able to take a grade 8 bolt and grind away anything that didn't look like a striker and it is functioning fine now.
These are the M70 and M77 that I received this month, Thanks Tradeex for some real sweet .22's
Now to get my niece out shooting.
The two pins are removed from my bolt and still can't get that damn extractor out.
I always dissasemble thing like that in Ziplock bags...
Meanwhile, I drilled the front swivel. It was very easy and I can even re-use the bolt.
I haven't taken my firing pin or extractor out yet, but I don't think there is a pin holding the extractor in place, at least on the models 70/77 I haves. The pin on the left side when looking down holds the firing pin in place. The extractor looks like a 10/22 type and removal can be done like this.
[YouTube]fvn7rFwj4H4[/YouTube]
[YouTube]fvn7rFwj4H4[/YouTube]
turbo_bird
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So I had another look at my rifle and got the bolt out. Turns out the problem was caused by a loose screw, somewhere between my brain and my fingers. I poked and prodded a bit with a feeler gauge to see what could be causing the bolt release to hang up, and was surprised when the feeler gauge slipped right under it. What I thought was a button to be pushed down is in fact a lever that turns 180 degrees to let the bolt past a cutout in the pivot. There never was an problem with the gun, other than me being a dummy. I still haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, but from dry firing and handling it at home, I can say that it makes every other rifle feel like a kid's toy. This is one solid rifle, with a trigger that you only have to think about squeezing. I can't wait to try it out.I finally got the M61 that I ordered today, only two weeks after than Canada Post originally said it would be here. So far it seems pretty good, other than the bolt release seems stuck. It's a button on top of the action that should push down to let the bolt out, but something must be blocking it. And the bonus is that the rear action screw is under the bolt and can't be removed with the bolt in place. Not the end of the world, it's actually not that dirty. The barrel is free floated all the way to the action on this one and the action is much heavier duty than on my M58. The sights are offset to the left a bit, that'll take some getting used to. The trigger pull is incredibly light, according to the Info I found, it's supposed to be 1.5oz. This gun makes my M58 feel like a lightweight toy, it's pretty heavy. Unfortunately, I won't be able to shoot it for a while. I'm moving this summer, so I didn't renew my range membership when it expired at the beginning of the month. And all my usual spots in the bush are either still snowed in or too muddy to get to right now. I did take a couple quick pictures of it though.
Bolt release at top of action. Rear sight slides into dovetail in side of action and is secured by two thumb screws.
Bolt is similar to M58 and M70 but has a second locking lug.
Offset sights. Rear sight is totally different than M58/M70
Kristian
Kristian
Thank Hitzy for the reply !
You are right, the pin don't hold the extractor.
I tried to remove it like in the video but its not exactly the same thing.
I'm sure the extractor will come out the same way but you have much more room for working the plunger on a 10/22.
I will need to grind the tips of a pair of a small pliers so they fit into the hole.
I'm sure the dirt in there don't help.
And its harder because we don't know the exact shape of the extractor.
I've had my extractor out, as it was looking gummed up and not moving very freely. I should have taken pics when I did it. If you have more trouble, let me know and I will do it again, and photo it.
I sprayed some penetrating oil on it first. The extractor itself just rocks back and forth sitting on a ledge like a scale beam, and is impeded by the pin you can see pushing on the back of the extractor, which has tension on it from a small spring behind the pin, (that you can't see).
Sooooo, if you have something very small and thin like dental pics, or a tiny screwdriver, you need to get between the pin and the extractor, so that you can press the pin back into its hole (thereby compressing the spring).
Then, still holding the pin back, you should be able to just pluck the extractor up and out of its place.
Beware at this point, as the pin and spring will want to go hide someplace on the floor across the room.
Clean the pin and the spring, and get a pipe cleaner into the little spring hole to get the gunk out. Put it back the same way, and it will work like new.
Maybe I'll go do it anyways, and try to take some pics.......
I sprayed some penetrating oil on it first. The extractor itself just rocks back and forth sitting on a ledge like a scale beam, and is impeded by the pin you can see pushing on the back of the extractor, which has tension on it from a small spring behind the pin, (that you can't see).
Sooooo, if you have something very small and thin like dental pics, or a tiny screwdriver, you need to get between the pin and the extractor, so that you can press the pin back into its hole (thereby compressing the spring).
Then, still holding the pin back, you should be able to just pluck the extractor up and out of its place.
Beware at this point, as the pin and spring will want to go hide someplace on the floor across the room.
Clean the pin and the spring, and get a pipe cleaner into the little spring hole to get the gunk out. Put it back the same way, and it will work like new.
Maybe I'll go do it anyways, and try to take some pics.......
