traditions flinters

Spanish/Italian Quality

After following this thread and noting some of the comments I have a few things to say. Based on my experience the differences that have been noted on the build quality of these guns is due to the fact that these guns have come a long way since they first came out. I acquired an early CVA Kentucky flintlock that was almost given to me by its totally frustrated owner. Add the newby factor to the problem and it can become frustrating to say the least. without an experienced mentor, learning the ins and outs of flintlocks is an uphill battle. My only problem with any of the late generation Italian/Spanish flinters is with the frizzen either not being tempered properly in the first place or losing the temper. This is easily fixed of course. As for the touch hole, no problems experienced on my part but again an easy fix.
No doubt paying $$$ for a custom gun will result in a very fine piece but if everyone had to do that there would be few shooters. My thoughts are get what you can afford and if its your thing then move up to a better quality ($$$) gun when you can.

Cheers. Steve
 
beefman said:
I'm a modern muzzleloader type hunter...Don't really know squat about what makes a good flintlock good.
I like my A&H flintlock ...its always gone bang for me. Maybe someone should tell us what qualities make or break a good flinter??
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I shoot about 500 - 700 shots a year out of a custom flinter now but have been shooting flinters for about 30 years, starting with an Italian one, so here is my 25 cents worth.
I think the single biggest thing to avoid is those spanish guns with a bushing that screws virtually through the whole barrel. They have a very small hole leading to the main powder charge and are very prone to misfires from fouling, both in flintlock and in percussion. A good flintlock should have a vent liner (which screws into the lock side of the barrel only) and preferrably with a 5/16" thread. The 5/16 liner allows a larger internal cavity and powder gets closer to the outside of the barrel than with a 1/4" liner.
High quality locks use heat treatable steel for their parts. This means that the frizzen should not have to be rehardened with Kasenite from time to time. It also means potentially less wear on the internal parts. I would consider a case hardened mild steel frizzen more nuisance value than major negative but on the other hand I also have a torch and kasenite.
I think the third issue is lock geometry and that is very difficult to define; only that locks like Siler and L&R costing in the $120 range or so, work well.
I think small locks are a royal pain because they require small flints and have relatively little flexibility in flint length.
I think the frizzen and the tumbler should both have bridles on them and I am not a tremendous fan of the locks with a screw adjustment on the sear engagement because I think the screw can work loose at times.
Almost forgot; the better locks have relatively strong mainsprings so that you get a fairly high flint speed as the hammer falls. Weak springs will work with sharp flints but as soon as the flint is a bit dull, their ability to spark drops off quickly.
Hope this is of some benefit

cheers mooncoon
 
Goldidig - good to hear you have the old Lyman shooting well.

Mooncoon has summed this up perfectly! Anyone who is tempted by the cheap price of a poor quality flinter should read his post twice - at least!

Traditions flinters suffer from ALL the poor things mooncoon has mentioned.
Starting with small, poor quality locks w/ geometry issues, vent hole problems and a lack of hardening.
It's 'cheaper' to start with a good flinter than it is to buy junk and then replace it (I made that mistake years ago, and will not touch a ceap flinter now).
If you must start with a production made flinter, it would be prudent to choose nothing less than a T/C or Lyman, as the newer ones can usually be made to fire reliably. T/C, under their lifetime warranty, will rebuild their older locks too, replacing the old style #### with the new one that provides beter geometry.
 
Mooncoon's advice nailed the key issues perfectly. especially regarding small locks and small flints. Big flints make more sparks and that is very desirable. Browse through the T-O-T-W catalogue at <www.track of the wolf.com> for a ton of good information on flint locks and related topics.
 
I have a Traditions flintlock and although I do have the occasional problem I find that it is my favourite firearm to shoot. Reloading and shooting at the same time does it get any better! I solved most of my failure to fires by buying good quality TC flints.
 
Smokepole said:
If it's a flintlock - save for a better one. The Italian and Spanish flintlocks suck.
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Hmmmmm that's funny i got this off your charter web site

"After many requests, I have a couple of these popular rifles on the way. Reserve one now. They always sell fast!
This is a slightly used .50 cal Lyman Great Plains Rifle in great condition. Stocked in walnut, trimmed in iron furniture, the Lyman Great Plains Rifle features a hooked breech, two wedge keys, double set triggers, adjustable rear sight, and 32" barrel."

I hope you told the Guy you sold the Lyman too that the gun sucks......lol
 
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I have just purchased a Traditions Spanish made Penn flintlock in 50 Cal. I have fired over 200 round balls through it and here is its performance:

1. Never fails to fire.
2. Short lock time.
3. Easy on flints, I got around 70 or so shots before I need to knapp.
4. Rifle is accurate if I do my part.
5. Rifle could use more drop as it sometimes wacks me on the cheek if I am not far enough back when taking a sight.
6. Stock is attractive with a nice grain and finish.
7. Rifle seems to be put together ok fit and finish wise, but it could be better.
8. All in all the Traditions flinter Penn in 50 cal is a good entry level rifle that will serve you for years and years. If nothing else it will teach you what you want in a rifle for your next one.

Cheers & TIghter Groups Eaglesnester
 
I had a traditions Tennessee carbine for awhile, It was a neat little banger.
I sold it on the ee so I could get my first Martini "my favourite rifle still btw thanks mephisto;)"

I found the lock was fine, but small and it was a pain sometimes, When it comes to flintlocks I am partial to big military locks and big pans filled with lots of powder...

I agree traditions locks work, but you cant compare em to properly tuned military style locks and the davis series of locks.


Honestly ...those that often shoot flinters know that there's few things in this world more dejecting then a poorly functioning one.

And boy oh boy-- sometimes-- those traditions guns can be a pain.
 
I picked mine up off the EE.50 cal. left handed.Never misfired ,shoots well. Only problem I had was my girlfriend fired it (she's right handed) and the flash out of the pan set the sleeve of her sweater on fire.She didn't want to fire it after that.
 
have a look at caywood guns on the net, i have two lefthand flinters from him, english game gun and a smooth bore, really happy, lots of pictures on his site, i gave up on the cheap repos years ago,, wade
 
I started with a T/C flinter in .45 cal. I have stuck with it despite trying a Lyman Deer Stalker flinter. I am not slamming the Lyman it had nice features for a hunting gun. (swivels, recoil pad etc) The T/C Hawken is just so much more reliable. Quality English flints and proper amount of priming powder is the key. Keep the black powder faith...

rgerads, Darryl
 
Yeah, and madtrapper143 can send his lock or whatever back to TC for a refurbish anytime he likes.
BTW, madtrapper143 - TC will upgrade an old style lock to the new configuration with better geometry, without charge.
 
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