Trapping raccoons, help?

SMART man there, that's what my wife thought while I was relocating squirrels, I live in a subdivision full of citiots they se gun me go to jail for the fort night.
 
crash277 said:
The road trip is to keep the wife happy. It will be shot and tossed into the garbage. Basically relocating it just turns it into someone elses problem.
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Glad to hear it, too many people think they are doing something positive by relocating the animal when in fact it is far, far more humane to give it some fast acting lead poisoning.
 
There are two types of Havahart traps.
One has two gates and are a walk through design. The distance from the pan to either gate is short and the bandit will have his a$$ under the gate so just backs out.
The single entry model has the pan at the opposite end, Tie the marshmallow to the underside of the pan with the release door end open and turned upside down.
 
I blasted one with 12ga bird shot that was a nuisance. Man they do so much damage especially to gardens and small farms that survive by growing locally available veggies for the Vegans,... and me ofcourse
 
horseshoe said:
Thanks for the tips so far guys.

As I mentioned before, any lethal or injurious methods are out of the question, as are things that ATTRACT cats, like sardines, meat, grease etc.

The only bait I can find that the cats don't want anything to do with is marshmallows, which is okay because the coons love them and keep coming back for more.

I've wired one end of the trap closed, and wired a marshmallow as far back in the closed end as it will go, hoping that would make the coon have to enter far enough to trap him. I even put a brick on the falling door to close it harder and push his ass inside, and a full salt block on top of the trap to anchor it down.

3 of them flipped the trap over and picked the marshmallow out from the underside of the trap, all the while smiling and mugging for my trail cam.

I'm going to stake the trap down with 18" rebar hooks into the ground tonight and see if that helps.

If it doesn't work, then I'll be looking into one of those traps mentioned above.
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Just stay up one night and let 'em eat lead.

It seems like you've already spent quite a bit of time trying to deal with this problem, so whats spending one or two nights waiting for them? Sure beats having to buy a new cage that might not be any better than what you've already got...
 
Smart man here as well, got to get inside there heads, this year I actually put up an electric fence 5 rows vertical with 6 inch spacing around the garden, no issues at all, once they ride the lightning they never return for a second ride. Trust me I touched it with no shoes on cause I always like to do stupid #### like that, nearly had a life altering experience, infact I think I am a better person now...
 
GTA Dragon said:
Smart man here as well, got to get inside there heads, this year I actually put up an electric fence 5 rows vertical with 6 inch spacing around the garden, no issues at all, once they ride the lightning they never return for a second ride. Trust me I touched it with no shoes on cause I always like to do stupid #### like that, nearly had a life altering experience, infact I think I am a better person now...
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Will Rogers said "some people learn by reading, others learn by being told but some just have to pee on an electric fence" . . . it may not be exactly as he said but you get the message.
 
Not sure if it was mentioned but a raccoon needs to be released thirty kilometers or more from the area trapped to ensure they don't return. But really just euthanize them. It saves so many troubles for the raccoon and people.
 
I've actually done very well by taking a 55 gallon steel drum and putting whatever bait in the bottom (cat food, dinner scraps, whatever really), the coons can't climb out the smooth sides. I did put a lid on it though with about a 15 inch hole in the middle. Anyway I just put that drum in the barn or beside the row of trash cans or wherever the coons are causing problems and usually catch them. I've caught as many as 3 at a time. I guess there could be a small risk of catching a coon and a cat simultaneouly but I've never had that happen. If you're in an urban area where you can't shoot the coons or you don't want your neighbours to see you killing them, just add water (after you caught them).
 
Did you teach the first one swimming lessons by chance?
If not then this will not help you either, but here it is....

http://www.flemingoutdoors.com/duke-dog-proof-racoon-trap.html

The Duke Dog Proof Coon Trap features a fully enclosed dog proof design with powerful coil springs, a sensitive trigger system and a straight spade staking system. The trap is fired when the raccoon reaches in for your bait, and instead grabs the trigger, firing the trap. When baiting Dog Proof Coon Traps; apply the lure or bait to a cotton ball or sheep's wool. Place below the trigger so the raccoon has to reach past the trigger to get the bait

Rob
 
X2 for the trap Rob is talking about. I seem to get lots of trap shy raccoons but they don't see this thing as being a trap and it takes something with fingers to grab the trigger and pull up on it to set it off. I just pack the bottom of it with sardines. Never release a raccoon...it will just cause someone else problems especially if was trapped, it will never go in another one.
 
DO NOT catch them in a trap then release in the country. Take him for a swim (in the cage of course) or kill it THEN release where ever you want.


Why you would take it for a drive then release it alive makes so sense. Now its someone elses problem or it will find its way back. Dispatch the damn thing, Then its noones problem anymore.



My dad always used the flybait and coke trick. I've seen like 15 coons in one night come to this trick. They are still hanging out by morning (dead 10 feet from where they injested)


dogs and cats will get into this stuff so only use up high in the barn
 
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