This is the .22LR single action revolver I bought awhile back. Just shot it for the first time at the range. Some of the bullets hit the paper sideways, accuracy is non existent. The amount of gas blowing out of it burns your wrists. How could the barrel be wore out,the finish is still good. Ever hear of another reason for bullets to fly crazy?
Tried out the old Reck
- Thread starter roblack
- Start date
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
either your barrel is very leaded up, or the cylinder is out of time with the barrel. Is there lead deposited on the forcing cone (metalic flakes, not normal dusting) or on the inside of the frame? Also look down the barrel and see if you can see rifling...i had a 22 revolver that could make the rifling disappear in 50 rounds LOL then everything was sideways....
Oh, and scrub out the cylinder chambers really well
Oh, and scrub out the cylinder chambers really well
How are you holding it so that the gases coming out are reaching your wrist?
All revolvers spit out some gas and often a bit of lead from the front face of the cylinder where there's a small gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone of the barrel. It's the responsibility of the shooter to not put their hands out past that surface.
Having said that the Reck was a cheap and poorly made gun even right out of the box. So if the cylinder gap is large you may get more spray flying around. The gap is supposed to be roughly as wide as the thickness of a piece of writing paper.
The bore may be all leaded up from the previous owner. Did you clean it and ensure that the rifling looked sharp and shiny?
All revolvers spit out some gas and often a bit of lead from the front face of the cylinder where there's a small gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone of the barrel. It's the responsibility of the shooter to not put their hands out past that surface.
Having said that the Reck was a cheap and poorly made gun even right out of the box. So if the cylinder gap is large you may get more spray flying around. The gap is supposed to be roughly as wide as the thickness of a piece of writing paper.
The bore may be all leaded up from the previous owner. Did you clean it and ensure that the rifling looked sharp and shiny?
Most single action revolvers have a base pin that you can pull out. The end is the stubby thing sticking out along the barrel and laid in at the base of the ejector housing. Usually there's a spring button or a set screw you need to press or loosen to unlatch that pin.
You tube is also your friend. This one isn't a Reck but it'll give you an idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIcezqwghx0
One thing he does wrong though. When you go to half #### to load or to allow removing the cylinder for cleaning NEVER lower the hammer directly back down. ALWAYS go to full #### THEN lower it. If you don't you end up forcing one of the spring legs on the cylinder stop bolt the wrong way over a cam on the side of the hammer. Not only is this hard on the spring arm but when the cylinder is then indexed the next time around it drags the nose of the bolt over the side of the cylinder. Do that a few times and you end up with a drag ring rubbed into the cylinder.
The only guns you don't need to do this with are the newer Rugers which have the bolt lifter linked to the loading gate. On those guns you don't even need to go to the half ####. But the gun in this video is one of the old Rugers which is the same as your Reck and all the other clones which do not have the gate to bolt disconnect link. These guns all need to be put into half #### to allow loading or cylinder removal. And as such from half #### you should ALWAYS go to full #### before lowering the hammer safely.
You tube is also your friend. This one isn't a Reck but it'll give you an idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIcezqwghx0
One thing he does wrong though. When you go to half #### to load or to allow removing the cylinder for cleaning NEVER lower the hammer directly back down. ALWAYS go to full #### THEN lower it. If you don't you end up forcing one of the spring legs on the cylinder stop bolt the wrong way over a cam on the side of the hammer. Not only is this hard on the spring arm but when the cylinder is then indexed the next time around it drags the nose of the bolt over the side of the cylinder. Do that a few times and you end up with a drag ring rubbed into the cylinder.
The only guns you don't need to do this with are the newer Rugers which have the bolt lifter linked to the loading gate. On those guns you don't even need to go to the half ####. But the gun in this video is one of the old Rugers which is the same as your Reck and all the other clones which do not have the gate to bolt disconnect link. These guns all need to be put into half #### to allow loading or cylinder removal. And as such from half #### you should ALWAYS go to full #### before lowering the hammer safely.
roblack - If you go to this link
http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm
there is a manual to download for "Heritage Rough Rider" which should be a close enough schematic to get some idea of how the Reck is put together.
I had to use needle nose pliers to grab that cylinder pin and remove it the first time. Mine had never been removed. It was NIB but many years old when I got it. (guy bought several in the 70's and put them away for what he hoped was huge profit
)
http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm
there is a manual to download for "Heritage Rough Rider" which should be a close enough schematic to get some idea of how the Reck is put together.
I had to use needle nose pliers to grab that cylinder pin and remove it the first time. Mine had never been removed. It was NIB but many years old when I got it. (guy bought several in the 70's and put them away for what he hoped was huge profit
)Some more resources;
These guns came under different names and manufacturers but many were the same design at least, and some even used the same parts as far as I was told.
Herbert Schmidt manual download (WARNING - I DID NOT CONFIRM THIS DOWNLOAD)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/18JSRlI21YK9-pvLJLak8rpiFiUVqGessnsMPxmLpZm0/edit?pli=1
I have a manual on my PC but I can't find where I got it.
And an exploded view.
Not sure what else you would need.
These guns came under different names and manufacturers but many were the same design at least, and some even used the same parts as far as I was told.
Herbert Schmidt manual download (WARNING - I DID NOT CONFIRM THIS DOWNLOAD)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/18JSRlI21YK9-pvLJLak8rpiFiUVqGessnsMPxmLpZm0/edit?pli=1
I have a manual on my PC but I can't find where I got it.
And an exploded view.
Not sure what else you would need.
I had one I the old Herbert Schmitt convertibles and it was a total pot metal POS. Shot way right with the .22lr cylinder, and way left with the .22mag.
My advice is to not spend any time or money on this....cut your losses and move on lol
My advice is to not spend any time or money on this....cut your losses and move on lol
