triger return V spring

cristo

cristo

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i was wondering if someone could hel me with a triger return spring
it's for a hopkins & allen xl no. 3 single action spur triger. i found some on the wolff sprins website but there asking for a minimum $25 charge . i only need one 3/16" wide x .018"
maybe someone would like to sell me one they have and if you need other springs from wolff let me know we could share the cost or tell me how to make one .
cheers

Kit No.7A V-Type Trigger Return Spring

Trigger Return Spring for Spur Trigger Revolvers

Please Note: Kits #7 through #11 are designed for use in H&R, IVER JOHNSON and other similar break-open and solid frame revolvers

Kit #7A contains a total of 12 V-type spur trigger revolver springs. There are 3 different spring designs with 4 springs of each design supplied as illustrated below. Springs require fitting.

No. 7A1 No. 7A2 No. 7A3
3/16" wide x .018" 7/32" wide x .018" 1/4" wide x .018"

BLITZPAK #7 consists of a total of 6 springs, 2 of each spring as described in Kit #7A.

SKU Description Price ($) Add to cart
10072 KIT #7A V-TYPE SPUR TRIGGER RETURN SPRING 14.99
10073 BLITZPAK #7A 9.99
 
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BrotherRockeye said:
cheaper and easier just to make one imo...
Click to expand...

Provided you know how;)

I've been experimenting with spring steel that has been annealed, formed, then hardened and finally tempered in a lead bath with limited results. Generally I either burn the spring in the annealing process or have too hot a lead bath and the spring is too soft.... or too cool and the spring is too hard....


If you've got a minute, I know more than a few of us would be interested in a quick how-to tutorial on spring making and proper tempering.
Please?:)
 
I've had descent luck using worn out jigsaw blades...I grind off the teeth and shape them,then heat(NOT red hot,just til pliable) to bend and quench in oil.They don't relax like other steels I've tried and so far have worked well.
I have tried everything I could find in my shop from recoil spring on down.I kinda just stumbled on this as I was tryin stuff out.
 
"...Provided you know how..." Exactly. Starting with the right steel.
A Hopkins & Allen revolver really isn't worth fixing, except as a project. Friggin' things are virtually worthless. You could try a flat spring from another revolver and grind it to fit.
"...have tried everything I could find in my shop..." Tried a bandsaw blade? Springy already and not as thick or hard as a jug saw blade. I'd be thinking an abrasive wheel in a rotary tool to cut it.
"...how-to tutorial on spring making and proper tempering..." Mostly about coil springs, but have a look here. http://www.spring-makers-resource.net/spring-winders.html
 
Had this problem with a Webley and used one of those big paper clamp/clip things...the U-shaped black ones with the wire pinchers. I sliced off the width I needed with a Dremel, cut it to length and smoothed the edges. It was meant to be a temporary fix but it still holding out well over two years later.

Blair
 
whatguns? said:
Had this problem with a Webley and used one of those big paper clamp/clip things...the U-shaped black ones with the wire pinchers. I sliced off the width I needed with a Dremel, cut it to length and smoothed the edges. It was meant to be a temporary fix but it still holding out well over two years later.

Blair
Click to expand...

what a great idea .

paper20clip.png
 
I've used those clips before and they work pretty good.
only band saw blades I have are on my band saws...
jigsaw blades come in different thicknesses depending on what they're for.the ones I've had the most success with are finer blades for steel like a hacksaw blade.
where I live there are no stores close by so I make do with what I have on hand at times.
use whatever you have handy,you might be surprised how it works out,and for me it's half the fun of bringing the old iron back to life ;)
 
I use drill rod and heat it red hot then forge it down to approximately the right thickness. I anneal in a bucket of wood ash then grind the scale off of the surface before filing smooth and to final thickness. Then grind one side straight and use that to lay out the opposite side. I leave a fairly wide piece where the little tit goes that sticks into the hole in the side plate. After bending into a V, I grind the excess away to fit the lock. The hook in the end of a mainspring I from hot with a hardy (made out of 3/4" plate) and a cold chisel with the cutting edge ground to a rounded edge.
Finally I heat red hot and quench then draw the temper in a small tin tray partly filled with motor oil. When the oil burns away, I have a spring. I keep the spring up off of the bottom of the tray with a couple of large finishing nails. Also of recent, I have had to use two cycle oil because the motor oil does not burn all that well any more.
Small springs like the original poster wants, I draw the temper in molten lead using a lead thermometer and a temperature of roughly 720 F. I used to draw to 680 but now think that is too hard
I have probably made close to 50 mainsprings that way and 10 or 20 small springs. I used to use molten lead with a thin piece of steel floating on the surface and heat the lead until the colours just turn from dark blue to grey then pull the plug and quench the spring.

cheers mooncoon
 
whatguns? said:
Had this problem with a Webley and used one of those big paper clamp/clip things...the U-shaped black ones with the wire pinchers. I sliced off the width I needed with a Dremel, cut it to length and smoothed the edges. It was meant to be a temporary fix but it still holding out well over two years later.

Blair
Click to expand...

I did something similar with a clip that held the door panel on an old car.
It worked perfectly for an old Belgian Bulldog. KD
 
thanks for the advice it took me 15 minutes to make it with a dremel tool and cutting wheel from left to right paper clip ,2 pieces of broken spring and the new i spring just made. the only difference is the original one was .018 thickness and the new one is .016
works perfectly .
spring001.jpg
 
cristo said:
thanks for the advice it took me 15 minutes to make it with a dremel tool and cutting wheel from left to right paper clip ,2 pieces of broken spring and the new i spring just made. the only difference is the original one was .018 thickness and the new one is .016
works perfectly .
spring001.jpg
Click to expand...

Brilliant, that's thinking out of the box
Cheers nessy
 
If you can get plank steel, the grade to specify is SAE 1060; makes great springs.

Should be available at any decent metal supply that supplies machine shops.

It's the .60 of 1% of CARBON that makes it suitable for springs. Any more it can be a proper b*tch to work with, any less and your spring won't be springy enough.
.
 
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