Trigger finger position
- Thread starter KDX
- Start date
I would say that you should move it further away from the fingernail towards the end of the first knuckle (i.e. in the crease) for autoloaders.
Although it depends on your finger length, position 2 will result in the gun shifting slightly to the right or left when you pull. Basically the idea is that your trigger finger should form a bend as close to 90 degrees as possible when pulling the trigger, with the trigger finger not touching the frame.
Although it depends on your finger length, position 2 will result in the gun shifting slightly to the right or left when you pull. Basically the idea is that your trigger finger should form a bend as close to 90 degrees as possible when pulling the trigger, with the trigger finger not touching the frame.
KDX said:
Yes, I shoot Glocks by putting the safety part of the Glock trigger into the groove of the first knuckle and it is the most comfortable grip for Glocks that I have found. Also, you have more control and strength in the pull, and so you can shoot faster since you can control the reset of the trigger so that you are always holding it at the friction point.
I use the same trigger position for my USP, CZ, Glocks and XD and 1911's and I find it works pretty well.
Finger positioning
Serrated trigger, finger tip, smooth trigger, first joint. Reason - a serrated trigger will either pull or push slightly with a first joint position, finger tip pull is straight back. Really what works for you best is the position you should use.. Straight shooting!
Serrated trigger, finger tip, smooth trigger, first joint. Reason - a serrated trigger will either pull or push slightly with a first joint position, finger tip pull is straight back. Really what works for you best is the position you should use.. Straight shooting!
The reason that most writings suggest the use of part of the pad of the finger
tip, instead of the crease or fold of the joint, is to do with biomechanics...
The goal is a staight back action on the trigger, thus avoiding a twisting or
torque force... it seems to be more easily accomplished with the pad...
BUT, like anything else, we're all built a little differently, and with such a
variation in hand and digit size, you've got to find what works best for you!
tip, instead of the crease or fold of the joint, is to do with biomechanics...
The goal is a staight back action on the trigger, thus avoiding a twisting or
torque force... it seems to be more easily accomplished with the pad...
BUT, like anything else, we're all built a little differently, and with such a
variation in hand and digit size, you've got to find what works best for you!
