Trigger Job
- Thread starter JB
- Start date
Erm.... you are actually. Get a Wolff spring kit. They will still mail them to Canada as long as you're under the $100 limit. I bought 3 kits for around $50 to $55 after shipping.
Install the hammer spring as it comes and use the lightest rated trigger return block spring (the 13 lb'er) and cut off about 1.5 to 2 coils. Clean out the action while you're in there, lube with a very thin film of good gun oil, re-assemble and revel in the delightful double and almost scarey light single action trigger that you now have.
Install the hammer spring as it comes and use the lightest rated trigger return block spring (the 13 lb'er) and cut off about 1.5 to 2 coils. Clean out the action while you're in there, lube with a very thin film of good gun oil, re-assemble and revel in the delightful double and almost scarey light single action trigger that you now have.
You forgot to mention "...and never think of using Winchester primers again!"
M.D. Charlton did a very smooth trigger job on my K-38. The price was reasonable and turnaround was quick.
An action job is a lot more than just swapping springs:
-Polishing of the hammer and trigger engagement surfaces, as well as the rebound slide.
-Ensuring correct geometry of hammer/trigger engagement surfaces.
-Removing any sideplay and centring hammer and trigger in frame.
-Possibly reducing mainspring and rebound spring tension.
Keep in mind that when it comes to triggers, smooth and light are not necessarily the same thing.
Jerry Kuhnhausen's The S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual provides more detail on the process.
Running a reduced mainspring may result in light occasional strikes in double action with other than Federal primers. You don't want to go too light on the rebound spring, either, as the trigger reset will not be as positive.
An action job is a lot more than just swapping springs:
-Polishing of the hammer and trigger engagement surfaces, as well as the rebound slide.
-Ensuring correct geometry of hammer/trigger engagement surfaces.
-Removing any sideplay and centring hammer and trigger in frame.
-Possibly reducing mainspring and rebound spring tension.
Keep in mind that when it comes to triggers, smooth and light are not necessarily the same thing.
Jerry Kuhnhausen's The S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual provides more detail on the process.
Running a reduced mainspring may result in light occasional strikes in double action with other than Federal primers. You don't want to go too light on the rebound spring, either, as the trigger reset will not be as positive.
See if there's a PPC club in your area, find out who they use (trigger jobs are articles of religious veneration in PPC) since you're in Ontario I'm willing to bet it's Wortners. Most of the guys out West use Charlton's - his "Master Class" trigger is amazing.
