Trigger mods

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Ruger Model 77 Trigger


The Ruger 77 trigger is one of the easiest factory triggers to rework. However, alterations to any firearm should be done only by a qualified gunsmith. This information is strictly for reference only and is not intended for use by anyone other than a qualified gunsmith.
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I would follow the advice.
 
Something to keep in mind - if the job doesn't work out, Ruger will NOT sell you replacement trigger parts.
 
Grizz, I have made this modification to a M77 MkII myself. The tool of choice is a fine gunsmith file and a honing stone. Do not under any circumstance approach it with any power tools. True, Ruger will not sell you a new trigger, but Timney will.
 
tiriaq said:
Something to keep in mind - if the job doesn't work out, Ruger will NOT sell you replacement trigger parts.
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On the other hand, they are probably a dime a dozen on the used market, because of all the shooters who replaced them with aftermarket triggers. As Gitrdone says, a Timney or Rifle Basix replacement trigger is always available as a backup should the home gunsmithing job go bad.
 
I ended up having to go to a gunsmith anyways cuz a buddy figured he could do it and buggered it up. The smith knew what he was doing fortunately and it shoots quite nicely now. Rugers are known for heavy trigger pull but still cheaper than replacing the whole trigger I suppose. Also if you do it yourself dont take off any more material than absolutely necessary cuz you can shorten the life of the parts. Good luck either way.
 
I cut one coil out of the original spring, polished the trigger surface using red rubbing compound, and narrowed the sear notch by using wet or dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass. Trigger is now a very acceptable 2.5 lbs weight. I think this is just right for my purposes.

I tried it first with no trigger spring at all, just to see how much the spring contributes to trigger draw. Its not that large of a component of it I determined. After cutting off one coil, the stiffer but shorter spring now results in less preload on the sear, but plenty to ensure engagement.

The trigger surface that contacts the sear, oddly enough had a nick or ridge in it running in the direction in which it slides against the sear. I carefully removed that nick and polished the surface with a sheet of cotton that I applied rubbing compound to and ran it back and forth manually.

I have tested the gun by slamming the bolt closed many times to make sure of no accidental discharges, and also by bouncing the butt of the gun off the wood floor.

I dry fired it a dozen times, then removed the parts again for inspection. I'll watch for any change in trigger weight and look the parts over again next time I clean the gun. I'd have rather used a softer spring, but parts like that are not easy to find, so I cut it down instead.
 
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