Trigger

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Kroeger

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So I'm at the point finally where I can start too shoot and enjoy my m305 that I have been building for the past few months. Just added a atlas bipod and battle sights today so next weekend I'll be heading too the range!! I haven't measured the trigger but it seems very heavy.... What are people doing too improve there triggers? Any good aftermarket recommendations?

Thanks steve
 
" Hockey night " trigger job works remarkably well.....and its FREE.
Just pull the trigger group out and pull the trigger several thousand times while watching the game, or if you are a warry type, then FMJ or Platoon. ( The WHOLE series of B.O.B gives very good results but can p#ss off the wife)
A dab of toothpaste can help smooth things out as well.
Or.........you could spend hundreds of dollars on a fancy ass trigger group :)
 
Duke878 said:
Do you reset the hammer everytime or just literally pull the trigger? Any info on polishing certain contact points?
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Reset the hammer and keep pulling. Not as awkward as it seems once you get a rhythm going.....have the band aid ready tho :)
I don't mess around polishing...too easy to screw up, so I just put tooth paste on all points that touch, and click away.
A lot smoother with a nice release.
Lots of guys on here have done it...... and as far as I know nobody has ever called it a waste of time.
 
Or you can use valve grinding compound and work the trigger while watching a movie or tv show. Then I looked at the wearing mark and decided to gently file the spot with a fine file. Only 3 or 4 pass. I feel like my pull weight has been reduced by a little less than half. My first stage is a bit heavier but the second stage breaks much cleaner and crisper. $10 trigger job, perfect for an economy norc build.

If you want to do this make sure you don't let the hammer go, give it just enough resistance so it doesn't slam. Other than that let the trigger group do all the work for you.

I took this trick from the Caliber magazine. I'm happy with it.
 
Pulling the trigger several thousand times just puts excess wear on the parts. Do a proper trigger job. Or at least change the springs.
Poor mans trigger job is a trigger shoe. Add the W's and order an M1A shoe. Number 11. $28.00US plus $8.75 shipping.
t-grips.com/index.html
 
Dake21 said:
Or you can use valve grinding compound and work the trigger while watching a movie or tv show. Then I looked at the wearing mark and decided to gently file the spot with a fine file. Only 3 or 4 pass. I feel like my pull weight has been reduced by a little less than half. My first stage is a bit heavier but the second stage breaks much cleaner and crisper. $10 trigger job, perfect for an economy norc build.

If you want to do this make sure you don't let the hammer go, give it just enough resistance so it doesn't slam. Other than that let the trigger group do all the work for you.

I took this trick from the Caliber magazine. I'm happy with it.
Click to expand...

no offense to the Daniel fritter who wrote that calibre article but I read that trigger job article and I promptly threw it in the trash.
valve grinding/lapping compound shouldn't be going in yer trigger group.
I've performed dozens and dozens and dozens of professional M14 trigger jobs , not once was valve grinding compound the right tool for the job.
get your advice from experts...... not some drivel posted in a magazine

if you want to do some of these advanced mods/tweaks to your rifle, you should not be doing them without a copy of jerry kunhaussen's book, 30 cal service rifle shop manual available at brownells
 
sunray said:
Pulling the trigger several thousand times just puts excess wear on the parts. Do a proper trigger job. Or at least change the springs.
Poor mans trigger job is a trigger shoe. Add the W's and order an M1A shoe. Number 11. $28.00US plus $8.75 shipping.
t-grips.com/index.html
Click to expand...

OK...............it seems like several thousand times , but is probably no more than 1,428 times...I wasn't counting.
And NO WAY would I ever put grinding paste anywhere near a trigger, that stuff is all or nothing. That's why I use a bit of toothpaste, it probably does nothing, but it gives me a warm techy type off feeling, and me gun smells minty fresh :)
 
Not trying to cause any trouble or disagree with anyone.

Tactical Teacher includes how to polish the hooks with lapping compound for a smoother trigger pull in his clinic's . A tiny amount applied to the hammer/ trigger release hooks contact point worked back and forth a "few" hundred times does improve the pull. Don't get carried away. You don't need to release the hammer and you don't want to remove the hardened steel surface. You do need to separate the hooks periodically to redistribute the compound just as you would lapping valves in a cylinder head. When you are done take it apart and thoroughly clean all the parts. If the compound is all over the parts you are doing it wrong to begin with. I'll bet I have not spent more than 20 minutes doing this on any trigger and it primarily just removes the Parkerizing. And yes toothpaste can be used as a lapping compound but it will go slower.

I can't speak to the quality of Norinco triggers and how uniform the contact is but the triggers I've done had a nice contact pattern with little work.

Filing the angles NM style is best left to a pro unless you have ample spare parts to learn with.
 
if you want to polish the sear mating surfaces, use arm and hammer baking soda toothpaste.
I'm truly surprised to hear that Hungry/tactical teacher is advising the use of lapping compound......

a trigger job addresses a whole lot more than the polishing of sear and hammer hook mating surfaces, which in Chinese trigger groups, are rarely symmetrical in how they make contact.
a trigger job done correctly will eliminate hammer wall/sear contact first, true the spring to correct length next, then sear mating surfaces are trued and polished and hammer hooks trued and polished. once all that is done, pull weight is established and either increased or decreased as necessary.

no lapping compound I've ever read about or used will do all that for you...... a standard trigger job that is. that's without even touching on any "NM modifications"
 
45ACPKING said:
if you want to polish the sear mating surfaces, use arm and hammer baking soda toothpaste.
I'm truly surprised to hear that Hungry/tactical teacher is advising the use of lapping compound......

a trigger job addresses a whole lot more than the polishing of sear and hammer hook mating surfaces, which in Chinese trigger groups, are rarely symmetrical in how they make contact.
a trigger job done correctly will eliminate hammer wall/sear contact first, true the spring to correct length next, then sear mating surfaces are trued and polished and hammer hooks trued and polished. once all that is done, pull weight is established and either increased or decreased as necessary.

no lapping compound I've ever read about or used will do all that for you...... a standard trigger job that is. that's without even touching on any "NM modifications"
Click to expand...

Amen. I have one of 45ACPK's tuned H&R trigger groups, and its worth every penny to get it done right.
 
Just an anecdotal note. Having recently obtained and installed both a NOS USGI trigger group and a SAI Standard trigger group, I was surprised that neither had a very good pull "out of the box." While there are many advantages to a trigger group upgrade you may find yourself in need of a tune up anyway, even with higher-end parts. In my limited experience, the best M-14 pattern trigger pull I've yet come across was from, oddly enough, an off-the-shelf unfired Norc shorty. Go figure.
 
Pop said:
Just an anecdotal note. Having recently obtained and installed both a NOS USGI trigger group and a SAI Standard trigger group, I was surprised that neither had a very good pull "out of the box." While there are many advantages to a trigger group upgrade you may find yourself in need of a tune up anyway, even with higher-end parts. In my limited experience, the best M-14 pattern trigger pull I've yet come across was from, oddly enough, an off-the-shelf unfired Norc shorty. Go figure.
Click to expand...

Nobody likes the same kind of trigger pull however. While some would spend lots of money to have a glass breaking like trigger, my uncle doesn't like it.
 
Dake21 said:
Nobody likes the same kind of trigger pull however. While some would spend lots of money to have a glass breaking like trigger, my uncle doesn't like it.
Click to expand...

Yep, an excellent point. And I haven't had much exposure to tuned M-14 pattern triggers aside from playing with a couple of SAI NM ones on occasion, so the breadth of my experience for comparison is narrow.
 
Pop said:
Yep, an excellent point. And I haven't had much exposure to tuned M-14 pattern triggers aside from playing with a couple of SAI NM ones on occasion, so the breadth of my experience for comparison is narrow.
Click to expand...

it's too bad I stopped smithing before you had a chance to have one of my trigger jobs done ;)
 
Casey at Tac Ord in Newmarket, Ontario did my Norc trigger group (with USGI internals) and the difference was like night and day. Tuned to 4.5 lbs, it took some getting used to (I had gotten used to the now obviously heavier stock trigger pull and feel)
 
Some of the Norcs come with a very heavy trigger pull. Most ate actually pretty good. I have a brand new complete Norc 305 trigger assembly that has a very good trigger. Pm me if u ate interested.
 
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