Trouble shooting question for the revolver experts

Joel

Joel

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
GunNutz
Rating - 99.8%
453   1   0
I have a revolver thats acting up a bit and figured I would ask the folks here before contacting a smith, and see what you think.

Its a Smith and Wesson 19-3 that started off working fine, and over the course of about 400 rounds since i got it, started to give me some trouble.

Whats going on was that sometimes when I closed the cylinder, I could not pull the trigger or #### the hammer, as the cylinder was not free to turn. Opening it and closing it again would fix this. Now it does not, at all.

If I pull the cylinder release latch backward any more at all, it frees the cylinder and I can #### the hammer, the cylinder rotates, etc.

I know it has something to do with the cylinder latch not being pushed back far enough when I close the cylinder, but I do not know the why. What do you think? If theres an easy fix or some troubleshooting I can do here at home before having to sendit off, that would be great.
 
Would I check that by holding the cylinder and trying to turn the rod by the knurled end? If so, trying now and I dont think its loose
 
That would be how you could check. When loose, it can get longer and cause the cylinder to bind, in turn causing the trigger to freeze.

If the trigger has some grit between it and the frame, it may not engage the cylinder stop when in the full forward position, which would also stopp the cylinder from turning.

If the center pin on the cylinder doesn't return to full out position, it will not push the latch all the way to the rear. How far does it protrude when cylinder open and does it easily pop back when pushed in?
 
Let me get a couple pictures and upload them Robin, and thanks for the help!

I will clean under the extractor too
 
Less likely than unburnt powder under the star is fouling on the front of the cylinder, reducing the cylinder gap to nil; however, this would appear pretty fouled unless the cylinder gap is too tight from the factory.
 
The center pin looks like it is flush with the frame or or just slightly below flush but close enough.

It feels like the tip of the extractor rod is hard to push in, and it makes it hard to push the cylinder latch too. But when I close the cylinder I do see the latch snap back some, just missing like 1 mm

IMG_1509_zps9063e271.jpg


IMG_1510_zpsa188c010.jpg


IMG_1512_zps70684c1d.jpg
 
If you pull the cylinder release back (as opposed to forward in order to open it up) are you able to #### the hammer or pull the trigger? I wonder if that little spring-loaded 'nub' on the cylinder is worn down or the spring has lost some tension and isn't adequately pushing the cylinder release mechanism all the way back.
 
Very possible, Locos! Yep if I pull it backward enough even just to say, it releases the cylinder so I can #### the hammer or pull the trigger
 
Does the cylinder release movement feel smooth when you work it back and forth? It wouldn't hurt to open the side plate and take a peek at the internals. There might be a bit of grit or rust inside that could be causing the hang-ups as well.
 
I'm thinking that there is something binding the centre pin (this is the piece inside the ejector rod that poles out the extractor star).

I'd take the cylinder off and unscrew the ejector rod and inspect the internals.

There will be a large diameter spring, collar, smaller spring and the pin inside.
 
To answer the question on the cylinder pin, I am thinking less than 1 mm, just enough to say its below flush.

I will look into removing the cylinder properly. Thanks for the suggestions!
 
Last edited:
If the distance between the bearing surface on the extractor star and the tip of the pin that protrudes through it is only 1mm then something is up inside the ejector rod/star. This is easy to access. Remove the screw above the trigger guard holding the crane on, with the cylinder open hold the cylinder and pull the crane forward away from both the cylinder and frame at the same time. Put the extractor rod between some soft jaws in a vise, put some empty cases or dowels in the cylinder and rotate the cylinder clockwise (left hand thread - opening). Once it moves, it comes apart easily. Clean, look for bur or broken spring. Lube it and reassemble in reverse order.
 
The pics show a bit of rub at the yoke barrel on the crane where it contacts the frame, just below the barrel when locked up. If excessive powder under star or if center pin in cylinder is catching internally, this would make sense. I'm outa here for the night, but look forward to seeing if you get it solved tommorow.
R
 
Oh sorry, I was describing the wrong pin to you Robin. I was thinking you meant the one in the frame.

The pin that sticks out of the extractor star is about 3mm I would say. heres a better picture with a primed case in the cylinder for scale.

IMG_1513_zpsca150eb4.jpg


Goodnight and thanks again for the time and help, much appreciated!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom