Trouble with my M1 Garand

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staman

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I bought a winchester M1 about 6 months ago. I took it to the range and it fires nicely it just doesn't cycle the action properly. Im using 180gr Remmington 30-06 core lokt in the standard 8 round enbloc. Every so often (1 out of every 5 or so) the action gets stuck about half way closed. When i open the action an unspent round comes out. I assume that's normal. If i were to simply close the housing it should continue firing. The problem is a lot of times the round is stuck in there at an odd angle.

Here's the advice Ive been given from various range members:

1. Lube the hell out of it. I did and it helped but didnt fix it. Someone suggested using heavy grease. Where and how to find that I would like to know.

2. Use military surp rounds. Someone said the rounds I was using weren't powerful enough to cycle the action properly. I doubt that.

3. My gas port needs adjusting. The thing is screwed just about as far in as it will go. Id rather not seize the damn thing in there.

Any help? Can someone suggest an M1 book that details breakdown, repair, re-assembly etc..
 
staman said:
I bought a winchester M1 about 6 months ago. I took it to the range and it fires nicely it just doesn't cycle the action properly. Im using 180gr Remmington 30-06 core lokt in the standard 8 round enbloc. Every so often (1 out of every 5 or so) the action gets stuck about half way closed. When i open the action an unspent round comes out. I assume that's normal. If i were to simply close the housing it should continue firing. The problem is a lot of times the round is stuck in there at an odd angle.

Here's the advice Ive been given from various range members:

1. Lube the hell out of it. I did and it helped but didnt fix it. Someone suggested using heavy grease. Where and how to find that I would like to know.

2. Use military surp rounds. Someone said the rounds I was using weren't powerful enough to cycle the action properly. I doubt that.

3. My gas port needs adjusting. The thing is screwed just about as far in as it will go. Id rather not seize the damn thing in there.

Any help? Can someone suggest an M1 book that details breakdown, repair, re-assembly etc..
Click to expand...



www.marstar.ca has copies of the U.S Army armourers maintanence manual....not a bad buy at $9.95 Canadian.....every new M1 owner should have one
 
Your gas plug should be tight, and they will shoot loose from time to time. I put a little bit of blue loctite on all of mine. Gas piston's and cylinders wear out over time, could be that.
Also, your gas cylinder and piston should be dry....that might be the issue if you have grease in there.
 
staman said:
I bought a winchester M1 about 6 months ago. I took it to the range and it fires nicely it just doesn't cycle the action properly. Im using 180gr Remmington 30-06 core lokt in the standard 8 round enbloc. Every so often (1 out of every 5 or so) the action gets stuck about half way closed. When i open the action an unspent round comes out. I assume that's normal. If i were to simply close the housing it should continue firing. The problem is a lot of times the round is stuck in there at an odd angle.

Here's the advice Ive been given from various range members:

1. Lube the hell out of it. I did and it helped but didnt fix it. Someone suggested using heavy grease. Where and how to find that I would like to know.

2. Use military surp rounds. Someone said the rounds I was using weren't powerful enough to cycle the action properly. I doubt that.

3. My gas port needs adjusting. The thing is screwed just about as far in as it will go. Id rather not seize the damn thing in there.

Any help? Can someone suggest an M1 book that details breakdown, repair, re-assembly etc..
Click to expand...

You can use Lubriplate or Tetra grease, among many others, but use grease.

Bullet weights greater than 150gr are generally not recommended in the M1.

I suggest you get the M1 Garand: Owner's Guide by Scott Duff.
Book104.jpg


The M1 Garand: Owner's Guide - Disassembly, assembly, inspection, repair, cleaning, zeroing, and more.

Written specifically for the M1 rifleman. With interest in the Garand at levels not previously experienced, new owners often have questions about their recent acquisition. Most common among them are: "Who made my rifle and when?" "How do I take it apart and put it back together?" "How do I clean, lubricate, and maintain it?" This book will answer those questions.

The civilian owner of an M1 rifle is faced with maintenance activities not encountered by military users. The owner must understand the operation and function of the rifle, and be proficient at dissasembly, assembly, inspection, and replacement of individual components. the purpose of this book is to impart that information to the reader which is necessary to develop the knowledge and ability to perform those tasks. Acquisition of these skills will inspire confidence at the work bench and rifle range!
Click to expand...
 
Shoot 150gr out of it.. nothing bigger... and I use white lith grease. Because its white, its really easy to see when you have to clean it. As for the gas system, Im not to familiar with adjusting, so I cant comment...

My M1 did what you are talking about a little bit when I first got it, but once I tore it down and got everything in order, it has worked perfect ever since.
 
Hello this is from a Garand manual I AM NOT A GUNSMITH, NOR DO I PLAY ONE ON TV, HECK, I HAVE NEVER EVEN SLEPT IN A HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS IN MY LIFE, IF YOU REQUIRE A GUNSMITH FIND A REPUTABLE ONE, AND GET YOUR RIFLE CHECKED OUT PROPERLY. ;)

Problem or malfunction: Cartridges misfeed or fail to feed

Probable causes:

Cartridge clip bent or deformed
Follower arm twisted, bent or broken
Slide/follower deformed or damaged
Bullet guide deformed or damaged (binds, stops follower arm)
Operating rod spring weak deformed, broken or wrong spring
Operating rod drags or binds(op rod bend problem)
Operating rod drags or binds(misalingned lower band, front hand guard, gas cylinder)
Cartridge jams (early style receiver cartridge guides worn or late style damaged)
Lack of lubrication on operating parts
Also see short recoil

Problem or malfunction: Short recoil (op rod does not fully cycle bolt when the rifle is fired)
Possible causes:
Gas piston undersize
Gas piston out of round, deformed or damaged
Gas cylinder over size in power stroke area
Gas cylinder out of round
Gas cyllinder deformed or damaged (drags, binds, stops gas piston)
Gas cylinder misaligned (drags, binds stops gas piston)
Gas port in barrel plugged or restricted( carbon or foreign material in gas port)
Gas port in barrel restricted (gas port indented or peened)
Gas port diameter undersize ( as problem in some commercial barrels)
Barrel O.D. Undersize in gas port area(power diameter undersize)
Gas cylinder loose on barrel (gas cylinder mounting ring I.D. oversize)
Gas cylinder lock screw loose in cylinder
Valve in gas cylinder lock screw leaks(valve cracked or damaged)
Operating rod binds(lower band/handguard assembly fit problem)
Operating rod binds(gas cylinder misalignment problem)
Operating rod binds(op rod bend/fit problem)
Operating rod spring kinked or deformed(drags binds stops operating rod)
Operating rod rust stuck inside operating rod spring passage
Wrong/too long operating rod spring (spring coil binds)
Follower rod body bent, altered, or damaged
Follower arm twisted or bent
Bolt assembly binds in receiver(damaged, distored receiver)
Bold assembly binds in receiver(warped and/or offcenterline rewelded receiver)
Bold operating rod cam lug/operating rod cam surface bind

Another really good manual is: "The U.S. .30 Caliber Gas Operated Service Rifles, A Shop Manual, Volumes I and II *covers the Garand & M14's and M-305 type rifles. Best regards Tony. :wave:
 
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It's not just bullet weight you have to be concerned with but also the burning rate of the powder. Otherwise you risk damage to the op rod due to overpressure. Use milspec M2 Ball ammunition or do some research to find equivalent commercial loads. Or you can get an adjustable gas plug.
 
Thanks for the education guys. Next time at the range Im gonna do the following:

1. Use lithium grease instead of hoppes lube
2. Use 150grn loads.
3. Tighten the gas port some more.

If that dosent fix it I guess ill be taking the thing apart. Wish me luck. My first semi deconstruction.
 
the bullet weight is not as important as the speed /burning rate of the powder .
i reload from data i have written specifically for the M1 garand and never had any problem/ ( an article from the nra / american rifleman circa 1986.) with any ammo 150 /180 grain /pointed or round nose projectile.

i am happy to send any members this info.

I AM NO EXPERT BUT THE DATA HAS WORKED FOR ME !!

using to fast or too slow a powder for reloading, or using CURRENT factory ammo OR THE LIGHT MAGNUM 30-06 VERSION wich is to HOT for the m1 will cause you grief.
ANY COMMENTS ?
PM ME WITH YOUR EMAIL FOR THE DATA.
 
I shoot 165 gr bullets out of mine with no problems. I do use Lubriplate as a lube and I don't clean the gas tube very much and that seems to keep it cycling happily. I think someone mentioned earlier that if your piston or bore is oiled it tends to stick.
 
The rifle was designed to use .30 M1 ammo with a 174.5 grain bullet at 2647 fps, not .30 M2 ammo's 152 grain bullet at 2700 fps, raised to 2800 fps in 1940 to match the ballistics of the .30 AP. All the tests were done using .30 M1 ammo. There was no such thing as .30 M2 ammo until 1938. The rifle fired .30 AP ammo with its 168 grain bullet with no fuss too.
168 and 175 grain match bullets will feed and not bother the rifle too. So will 180 grain hunting bullets. If you're not reloading and don't want to use match bullets, Federal loads a 150 grain FMJBT and a flat based FMJ bullet made specifically for the M1. It's under their American Eagle brand. They load Sierra 168 grain Matchkings too, but that'd be expensive. Don't know how available it is up here though.
"...the round is stuck in there at an odd angle..." That's where your problem lies. The cartridge isn't being fed into the chamber properly. Change the follower. Marstar lists 'em at $19 each.
The rifle does need to be lubed properly with grease, but not heavy grease and not a ton of it. This time of year, too much regular grease can harden in the cold and stop the rifle from operating. In the cold, you can either shoot it bone dry, use dry lubes like powdered graphite or use grease made for cold temperatures. Don't use grease is extremely dusty conditions either. Look for cold temperature grease in a snowmobile repair shop.
Go here for free .pdf U.S. military TM and FM manuals. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. The Field Manual FM-23-5 has a picture of where to apply the grease.
http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
Buy a copy of Hatcher's Notebook and Hatcher's Book of the Garand too. About $30 each. Your local gun shop or Amazon. Both have lots of info about the development of the rifle and the ammo it used. The latter has a trouble shooting chapter that's the same as the FM-23-5 .pdf.
 
staman said:
Thanks for the education guys. Next time at the range Im gonna do the following:

1. Use lithium grease instead of hoppes lube
2. Use 150grn loads.
3. Tighten the gas port some more.

If that dosent fix it I guess ill be taking the thing apart. Wish me luck. My first semi deconstruction.
Click to expand...

It might be a good idea to give her a full clean up now before you use it again. It might be part of the problem if it has not been cleaned for awhile. If it is a clean it should eject straight up as apposed to to the rear. I don't use litium grease,I use FIREPOWER FP-10. Smells great and if it wasn't toxic I'd likely use it as mouth wash.
 
staman said:
Can someone suggest an M1 book that details breakdown, repair, re-assembly etc..
Click to expand...


In "The Screening Room" (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=46, we updated the existing set of wartime U.S. Government produced Garand training videos (over 2 hours).

To the existing entry Rifle Marksmanship with the M1 Garand Rifle (1942 Training Videos and Companion Book), we've added a 1943 official training Film of the U.S. War Department, displaying the principles of operation of the U.S. CAL. .30 M1 Rifle better known throughout WW2 as the “Garand”. Signal Corps ordnance experts demonstrate the intricacy of the firing mechanism behind the most expensive and one of the best rifles of the Second World War.


U.S. CAL. .30 M1 Rifle (1943)
Video length = 15 minutes
(Click PIC for link to MKL entry)

There's some great material in this Knowledge Library entry for collectors who also shoot these old Garand vintage rifles, including a companion training book titled "How to Shoot the U.S. Army Rifle" and other articles on "Snap Shooting" and pics of the "Sighting Training Device".

Regards,
Badger
 
Clips

sunray said:
"...the round is stuck in there at an odd angle..." That's where your problem lies. The cartridge isn't being fed into the chamber properly. Change the follower. Marstar lists 'em at $19 each.
Click to expand...

Or the clip! Perhaps the clip is only worn or damage

About ammo the only thing I can think is that with commercial hunting ammo the bolt move with too much velocity than hit the back of the receiver than spring back with too much force causing a jam on feeding.Try 150 grs if the problem stop you have the solution.

where are you living?


Larry"Caporal"Marcotte
 
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