So a quick question here... how do these Troy par rifles do with cheap or surplus ammo? Was considering buying one to try something new and don't like restricted rifles. Good rifle overall for $1200? If these m and p AR's were NR I would go that route... oh well...Cheers.
Troy par in .223??
- Thread starter K-Roc
- Start date
Fair enough... I read that they dont like surplus ammo? Seemed odd... overall reviews look good.
Admittedly, I've not used one. Just stating what seems somewhat obvious to me. My experience with manually cycled guns is that if they don't cycle something it's usually because 1) They're complete junk (which I don't really see Troy selling) or 2) Operator error.
OldFrankHog
CGN frequent flyer
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They could have a tighter chamber than a semi which can cause problems with metal cased ammo. I believe the problem with the PAR was the chamber had some sort of relief cuts in the chamber to make extraction easier that actually made it worst with lacquered surplus ammo. I think.
Well reportedly they are very accurate though one CGN member I know had bad luck with accuracy. They may or may not have fluted chambers but even with flutes the effects on the brass are minimal and can be reloaded with somewhat less lifespan expected of the brass. Troy states no steel casings to be used because of the fluting. They are very AR15 like as far as feel and are a fine alternative to have a NR rifle. One would ask what this would have over other NR rifles and I would think the following:
1. Short barrel - No need for 18.5" as it is a manual action. Sure the bullpups have that beat but where do they place in point 2,3,4?
2. Light - They come in at 6 lbs. That rules out most NR MSRs. Sure the SU-16 but built like a cheap BB gun and point 3.
3. Accurate - Except for that one guy I know everyone else finds these very accurate. Well under 2 MOA is the norm. Perhaps the SL8 and SA have it beat but point 1,2,4
4. Price - Coming from a quality AR15 company one would not expect junk yet at the same time the price is very reasonable. The T97, mini 14, and SU-16 beat it. but point 3.
There are no other NR MSR that can match all 4 of those points. The only real failing if you can call it that is it is not semi auto. Ask yourself if that is really needed.
Moe
1. Short barrel - No need for 18.5" as it is a manual action. Sure the bullpups have that beat but where do they place in point 2,3,4?
2. Light - They come in at 6 lbs. That rules out most NR MSRs. Sure the SU-16 but built like a cheap BB gun and point 3.
3. Accurate - Except for that one guy I know everyone else finds these very accurate. Well under 2 MOA is the norm. Perhaps the SL8 and SA have it beat but point 1,2,4
4. Price - Coming from a quality AR15 company one would not expect junk yet at the same time the price is very reasonable. The T97, mini 14, and SU-16 beat it. but point 3.
There are no other NR MSR that can match all 4 of those points. The only real failing if you can call it that is it is not semi auto. Ask yourself if that is really needed.
Moe
I think Moe summed it up pretty well.
I've only put about 300 rounds through mine, and have handloaded for it. If you are looking at surplus or bulk ammo I would try the heavier 62 gr bullets, the 1:7 twist barrel should stabilize them better than the 55's. Troy says not to use steel case ammo because it could damage the gun. I believe they are concerned that it may not contract as much as brass after firing and get stuck in the chamber. If mine has a fluted chamber I can't tell from the brass, there at more no marks on it after firing.
All around it's a great gun. Due to the endless possibilities for reloads, I'm still testing, but so far I think the gun shoots well for what it is, averaging just a tick over moa at 100 and 200 yds. A load I recently tested at 300 yds produced a 10 shot group that was 4.5" without allowing cooling time for the barrel. I'm happy with that.
The only functional thing I've done to it is some trigger work, it was a bit gritty and had too much creep for me. After polishing the sear and installing a set screw to remove the creep, it's much better (thanks youtube). For $250 a drop in trigger would be even better, but I'm cheap.
The only other change I would consider at this point, is rebarreling to .277 Wolverine to buck the wind a little better and send more energy downrange for coyotes.
I've only put about 300 rounds through mine, and have handloaded for it. If you are looking at surplus or bulk ammo I would try the heavier 62 gr bullets, the 1:7 twist barrel should stabilize them better than the 55's. Troy says not to use steel case ammo because it could damage the gun. I believe they are concerned that it may not contract as much as brass after firing and get stuck in the chamber. If mine has a fluted chamber I can't tell from the brass, there at more no marks on it after firing.
All around it's a great gun. Due to the endless possibilities for reloads, I'm still testing, but so far I think the gun shoots well for what it is, averaging just a tick over moa at 100 and 200 yds. A load I recently tested at 300 yds produced a 10 shot group that was 4.5" without allowing cooling time for the barrel. I'm happy with that.
The only functional thing I've done to it is some trigger work, it was a bit gritty and had too much creep for me. After polishing the sear and installing a set screw to remove the creep, it's much better (thanks youtube). For $250 a drop in trigger would be even better, but I'm cheap.
The only other change I would consider at this point, is rebarreling to .277 Wolverine to buck the wind a little better and send more energy downrange for coyotes.I have one in 223 and really am on the fence. I had problems with light p4imer strikes and then the bolt catch snapped in half. I know the light primer should be adressed by hammering the slide foward like a man but I am still waiting for the replacement bolt catch. It broke less than 30 fired rounds in. Great idea but execution is lacking. Will reserve final judgement until i have replacement parts. Also, it would not work with the ssa e trigger due to the difference in hammer profile.
I can buy .223 from Tenda for about $0.46 to $0.50 a round Eagle or UMC 55gr on sale. I used these on my Troy PAR 223 and no issue at all so far. I know reload will be cheaper but for $0.46 a round it is already pretty cheap for me for factory stuff. I would rather pay a little bit more to play safe.
Yeah I was worry about that too on mine but then come to think of it it suppose to hit the firing pin first then the action release thingy. If they designed it right by the time it get to the action release thingy most of the force should be released on the firing pin instead. If you look at just the lower and watch the trigger hammer going forward then yes it looks like the hammer is slamming it head-on. I think dry firing without a snap cap will definitely damage it. I checked after about 300 rounds and I don't see the part get dinged or scratched. I also checked the trigger hammer for signs of scratches but I don't see any significant new mark or silver spots. May be in a really long run the part will get weakened enough to snap one day but so far nobody knows how long it will last. If it breaks on mine I will contact Rampart right away.
