Tru-oil finish
- Thread starter skwerl
- Start date
220 seems a bit rough but IMO it could work for a rustic look. I usually use 240 and then wet/dry the stock several times to raise the grain and go over it with 320 or finer depending on the wood and desired finish/protection.
I think it depends a lot on your environmental conditions eg. temp, humidity and drying time in between coats/wipes, on how many coats to apply.
I also like to put on a couple coats of thinner oil, like danish oil on the stock before applying tru/tung oil. Danish oil will soak in deeper into the grain and serves as the base layer for protection.
I think it depends a lot on your environmental conditions eg. temp, humidity and drying time in between coats/wipes, on how many coats to apply.
I also like to put on a couple coats of thinner oil, like danish oil on the stock before applying tru/tung oil. Danish oil will soak in deeper into the grain and serves as the base layer for protection.
That's about what I use, Stain or no stain makes a difference for me, if staining, no more then 180
4-5 coats will seal up, and give a flat / statin finish.
I have hand rubbed more like 10-12 coats on lots of guns. ,That is with Tung oil, need coffee, sorry.
Those are all light coats, rubbed till dry.
BTW ,on old Stevens and such, and old pistol grips, I try not to sand if possible. I use stripper to remove old finish.
0000 steel wool is good if you want to flatten the finish, after its dry.
Don't rush. and be careful of oily rags with oil finish on them, I toss in water, or this time of year , out side in the snow, spread out is good.
PS as R said, grit kind of depends on what you are doing, I know fellows that have gone to 320 grit, I have used that on small boxes stuff I have turned on the lathe, some of that is just a wax finish. 3M fine pads are handy for that as well.
4-5 coats will seal up, and give a flat / statin finish.
I have hand rubbed more like 10-12 coats on lots of guns. ,That is with Tung oil, need coffee, sorry.
Those are all light coats, rubbed till dry.
BTW ,on old Stevens and such, and old pistol grips, I try not to sand if possible. I use stripper to remove old finish.
0000 steel wool is good if you want to flatten the finish, after its dry.
Don't rush. and be careful of oily rags with oil finish on them, I toss in water, or this time of year , out side in the snow, spread out is good.
PS as R said, grit kind of depends on what you are doing, I know fellows that have gone to 320 grit, I have used that on small boxes stuff I have turned on the lathe, some of that is just a wax finish. 3M fine pads are handy for that as well.
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- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
220 grit is plenty, the last couple oil finished stocks I did I stopped at 220. Last sanding passes I did were wet, sanded with blo. After my final blo coat I buffed in two coats of furniture wax, 220 leaves a nice smooth finish.
If using steel wool make sure the grain is well filled first... or the possibility of steeel wool embeding into the finish exists... then you need to sand it all away. Been there, done that. I prefer wet sanding with 220 or 240 grit and hand rubbing.
I final sanded the wood with 400 grit...wet it a couple times in between to raise the grain again for an even smoother finish. I use # 0000 steel wool in between coats of T.O ..then tack wipe it off.
I usually put 2 coats a day on...lest few days it'll dry in faster, so I can do 3 applications. IF...you don't want that deep glassy look, and a satin look strikes your eye, you can use the stock and sheen conditioner made also by Birchwood Casey to flatten it down a bit.
Once finished, I wait 8 or 9 days to put it back on my receiver and fore end...then allow it to cure again for another 2-3 weeks.
I usually put 2 coats a day on...lest few days it'll dry in faster, so I can do 3 applications. IF...you don't want that deep glassy look, and a satin look strikes your eye, you can use the stock and sheen conditioner made also by Birchwood Casey to flatten it down a bit.
Once finished, I wait 8 or 9 days to put it back on my receiver and fore end...then allow it to cure again for another 2-3 weeks.
Attachments
Nice piece of lumber on that Browning.
Here's more than most want to know - - > https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/stocks-making-repairing-refinishing-mods-etc.275/
Big takeaway is watch out for 'silicone' in "Stuff" . It can make problems later, I guess. Only belongs in bags.
Big takeaway is watch out for 'silicone' in "Stuff" . It can make problems later, I guess. Only belongs in bags.
- Location
- Okanagan Valley B.C.
Hey that's pretty phantastic , I will strive for tht finish next gun .
Rite now working on a re finishing an old Favorite therefore a little rustic.
thnkz man..
- Location
- Okanagan Valley B.C.
Same as above that is some thing to strive for on
my next project .
Phantastic phinish man.
...skwerl
Thanks Mike ! They said it was a Grade V wood when I bought it 10 yrs ago. Looks like it to me.
I use only two of my fingers with a tight nitrile glove on them for all my applications ! No rags or cloths. Sometimes I'll use the spray can Tru Oil for the last coat or two..seems even glossier ! ((( BUT...it's veeery apt to run..so stay back a bit, and use just enuff to cover the surface smooth.
