Tru Oil - Gloss final finish

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Hey guys,

So one of my overunders wood was looking pretty dull, so I decided to give it the Tru Oil treatment. It did the trick and definitly made the grain pop, but Ive ran into a problem with the final coat. Now that Im trying to apply the final coat, I cant seem to get it to gloss over perfectly. I have tried several different methods, but it always comes out with some imperfections like streaking etc. So I steel wool it and try something else but end up with the same result. I would like to keep the gloss finish and not have to 0000 steel wool it after down to satin.

Any suggestions and advice would be much appreciated! Thanks
 
A polish called Stock Glaze is what I use... I have some from 40 years ago... Barotto Sports sold it in 2 ounce containers...
 
Let it dry for a couple of weeks, lightly burnish with 0000 steel wool, hand rub with Menzerna #16 polishing paste, hand polish with Menzerna Intensive polish. You should end up with a finish like a Steinway piano.
 
Um... It seems to me that Tru-Oil isn't the product that you should have used if your goal was that "dipped in liquid plastic" sort of look.

Oil finishes are by nature a softer sort of finish and they aren't intended to build up a film thickness in the same way a varnish or two part finish coating is supposed to do. It's also a softer finish so it can't be polished and buffed in the same way as harder films of lacquers, varnishes and two part coatings.

Even if you're trying to do something sort of in between you may not be able to get there due to the softness of the film.
 
This was done with Varathane oil based Diamond Woodfinish and a dollar store paintbrush. The stock is ready for hand rubbing and polishing the forestock is finished. The 2 glare spots are the overhead fluorescent lights. It's the stock set for an old Cooey 16 ga. The hand polishing of the fore stock took 2 beers to do
Mike


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The long way: In between coats of tru oil, work progressively through sandpaper grits starting at 400 ending up over 1000 grit. The best way is to sand with the tru oil wet, making a slurry. Will help fill pores in the wood naturally. You'll need to sand the last coat again after it dries (1500 or even 2000 will give you a splendid final shine, and worth the extra work). Finish with a polish, I use a sewn polishing wheel with white rouge for my hardwood knife handles. On something larger like a gunstock, hand polishing will give you a more consistent finish, someone else can give you better suggestions on what to use as a final polish. I've only done a couple shotgun stocks so far, but they turned out pretty damn nice. On the last one I ended up going satin, but instead of hitting it with 0000 wool, I used some Tom's 1/3 gun oil for a light finish over top of the tru oil shine, buffed it out and it came out perfect, nearly matching Browning's satin finish on my x-bolt.

Cheers!
 
I recently did a couple old 22s with Cerakote Microclear High Gloss, It seemed to work pretty good if you don't mind the plastic feel. I found one coat of that stuff equaled probably 4 coats of tru-oil. It's pretty much a one shot deal, I don't think that stuff can be stripped off after it cures.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I think I am going to go with a polish after a couple more coats to be sure (since Im already down the Tru Oil road)

I was at dinner with a couple guys and they suggested Lemon Oil furniture polish. Has anyone used this before?
 
Just finished the stock....4 beers. Just google Menzerna canada, you'll get a few hits. I can't take credit for this process , a friend of mine who was a supervisor at a Sherwin Williams production plant who knows more about paint than I'll ever know, filled me in, it's way too easy
Mike

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Re: I was at dinner with a couple guys and they suggested Lemon Oil furniture polish. Has anyone used this before?

Yep, but I like Scot's Liquid Gold better. The only place that I know of that carries that is Home Hardware.

In any event, read the label because some products are for use on an open, or natural finish & some are for use on varnish products.

Tru oil is a polymerized boiled linseed oil, essentially varnish mixed into blo.

Got any cans of old floor wax or furniture paste lying around? Lay it on, use your hands or a rag, fairly thickly, let it dry (it will be a white powder) then rub with a piece of flannel.

BTW, the only reason, IMHO, that you want gloss is that you've never seen a really nice rubbed stock. You don't have to have it flat or eggshell, there are a lot of places to stop in-between.

Cdn Tire, at least in Wpg., carries grades from 1200 to 3000 in the autobody section, that you can wet sand with & if you can find a piano or violin repair place, you can get up to 12,000 grit, if you really want to burn your eyeballs out.
 
Thanks jamesharrison I'll take a look. No I don't have any wax but can find some easily. I have a couple gloss overunders and a few oil gloss satin, all factory finishes, but for this particular one I would like to go gloss. I'll see what I can find tomorrow. Thanks for the help!
 
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