I have been trying to build a RS Baker.Im usually pretty handy and can learn but wow.Dont have one as reference.Im looking for a builder that has experience with bakers or similar that is willing to answer some questions.Eg is it ok that my Breach plug is sunk into the barrel.Its a military hook breach.Advice on cutting Dovetails on a round tapered barrel by hand?Can I silver solder with my little map gas oxy rig?Can I get away with just normal soldering underlgs on instead of dovetailing.Ect.Help.Dave
Trying to learn how to build a rifle Kit,Need help/insight/answers
- Thread starter Dave.S
- Start date
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
Facebook actually has some active groups around building traditional longrifles. Some searching there should net you some leads.
There's a few builders here so hopefully ol'flinter or others will chime in.
Not sure what you mean about the breach being sunk in. It kinda needs to be run home until it's smuggled up. Does tang still hook up properly?
I'm still struggling with dovetails myself so not ready to offer much about that. Soldering the lugs should be a viable option and I would think soft solder would suffice but it might depend on the surface area. Be sure the don't extend too far under the barrel and interfere with the ramrod channel if they aren't sunk in dovetails.
There's a few builders here so hopefully ol'flinter or others will chime in.
Not sure what you mean about the breach being sunk in. It kinda needs to be run home until it's smuggled up. Does tang still hook up properly?
I'm still struggling with dovetails myself so not ready to offer much about that. Soldering the lugs should be a viable option and I would think soft solder would suffice but it might depend on the surface area. Be sure the don't extend too far under the barrel and interfere with the ramrod channel if they aren't sunk in dovetails.
A baker rifle!
which model? where did the kit come from? (pics) "YES" - so long as you have about 1/2" worth of threads there and the hook still locks up correctly (pics?)
"PRACTICE" - it's actually not hard, 5 or 6 and you'll be a pro, nor do they need to be as deep as you might think. I believe Brownells sells a guide for doing this.
Somewhere in here: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...W!?p=14849059&highlight=dovetail#post14849059 around post #233 is a step by step on an octagonal barrel ... process is the same for a round barrel. but check your depth at the center.
"YES" but depends on a lot of factors.
"YES" a larger contact area will give you more strength, but you will probably find dovetails to be easier.
infideleggwelder
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Get yourself some books. the gunsmith of grenville county is one that should be required reading.
go on line, join forums specifically that deal with muzzle loaders.
check youtube, if yours is a kit, they probably have your specific kit being built.
listen to sean69, offers good advice and has built more than I
I soft soldered the brass lugs that i made to my barrel, they are still attached after over 500 shots.
dovetailing, make sure you have a "safe edge triangle file". practice those before you cut your barrel.
take your time, don't rush.
go on line, join forums specifically that deal with muzzle loaders.
check youtube, if yours is a kit, they probably have your specific kit being built.
listen to sean69, offers good advice and has built more than I
I soft soldered the brass lugs that i made to my barrel, they are still attached after over 500 shots.
dovetailing, make sure you have a "safe edge triangle file". practice those before you cut your barrel.
take your time, don't rush.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php
One of the best, if not THE best of the online chat groups dedicated to building and collecting muzzleloaders. The primary interest is longrifles, but still plenty of info, tutorials and very skilled builders to guide you through to a successful build.
One of the best, if not THE best of the online chat groups dedicated to building and collecting muzzleloaders. The primary interest is longrifles, but still plenty of info, tutorials and very skilled builders to guide you through to a successful build.
another good forum: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/
and another great book, Recreating the American Longrifle. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/321/1/BOOK-RAL
It's about half the length of the Gunsmith book but both cover all the basic techniques needed - the gunsmith goes into a few things you probably won't be doing on your first few/dozen guns or so
Both are well worth reading as some of the techniques differ, but I found the American Longrifle book to be somewhat more readable (with less 'opinions') just watch where you step - some of these guys who have been doing it forever are pretty set and can go off suddenly if something is't "correct" for a particular build or style ...
-enjoy!
I would avoid cutting dovetails into a round barrel if it is thin walled like a trade gun or musket. I don't hesitate to cut dovetails into the octagon section of a octagon/round barrel but then will solder underlugs on the round section. I could not find the reference but I recall a recommendation from a barrel manufacturer that advised to always have at least .050" barrel wall thickness under a dovetail. Check around on that to satisfy yourself.
As for soldering, regular lead solder will hold a barrel lug on a barrel but I prefer to used soft/low temp silver solder that melts just a bit higher temp but seems to hold better that lead solder. Your MAP gas torch is plenty capable of doing that and I do it with regular propane torch.
Cutting dovetails by hand is a bit tedious but can be done with accuracy and precision if you are patient. You will need a hack saw, cold chisel (optional but saves time) and a couple of triangular files, including one with a "safe edge", that is one that has had one of the three surfaces ground smooth for finishing the undercuts.
As for soldering, regular lead solder will hold a barrel lug on a barrel but I prefer to used soft/low temp silver solder that melts just a bit higher temp but seems to hold better that lead solder. Your MAP gas torch is plenty capable of doing that and I do it with regular propane torch.
Cutting dovetails by hand is a bit tedious but can be done with accuracy and precision if you are patient. You will need a hack saw, cold chisel (optional but saves time) and a couple of triangular files, including one with a "safe edge", that is one that has had one of the three surfaces ground smooth for finishing the undercuts.
I can't imagine many things as excruciating as buying a kit like that and not already having a bit of a handle on the skills needed to finish it.
Kudos for so doing, but it's gotta feel a little like going for a run in the dark, and not knowing where all the brick walls have been put.
I'll second the Buchele book. Great pictures and descriptions of the processes to get from A to Z in the build, plus lots of pictures and drawings of details you probably never considered.
Good video, worth a watch, here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTy3uQFsirk
Kudos for so doing, but it's gotta feel a little like going for a run in the dark, and not knowing where all the brick walls have been put.
I'll second the Buchele book. Great pictures and descriptions of the processes to get from A to Z in the build, plus lots of pictures and drawings of details you probably never considered.
Good video, worth a watch, here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTy3uQFsirk
