Trying to understand grains

[Virtualdodo]

fair enough any recommendation on a good manual to start with?

 

[joe-nwt]

Personally, I like the Lyman manual the best, but I have many. They all have the same basic info on reloading in the first part of the manual. The Lyman manual is not "component specific" like many of the other manuals.

Can't have too many references when it comes to reloading, though. Once you get into it you may want to buy another manual or two.

 

[phatman]

Your math is correct.

Another advantage is the ability to match the ammo to the gun and purpose. For paper-punching, cast lead bullets are just as good as jacketed, at about 1/4 the cost.

I pay $35/500 for DRG bullets.

In 9mm the 135gr groups better and has less felt recoil than the 115 jacketed ammo. I laod it to about 950 fps, which is around 80% power. Have never had one bounce off the target.

For accuracy, reloading is the only way to go - especially for long range rifle shooting/hunting.

How much is nailing that long shot worth to you?.......

[(shoot + load) x repeat] = is the only equation you need to know

Have fun!

You guys beat me to it - the reloaders nirvana is to find the perfect recipe to match gun to bullet, powder and purpose. Sometimes it's easy - sometimes not so easy - but it's fun trying

 

[Raton57]

7000 grains to a pound.Pretty easy to figure out how far a pound of powder goes from that. I guess I should stop reading the reloading manual front to back.Might learn something important.

 

[nada]

joenwt x2 . 231 is a good allround choice , i use it in 32s&w long,9,40,45acp,45colt. once you get into reloading you might want to spred out a bit. i also use wst, tight group, clays, bullseye, for the above.

 

[OKTREE]

Completing a ladder test with new rifle and watching your group size, E and sd shrink then open up after you have reached and surpassed each of the accuracy 'nodes' can be very rewarding. Tweeking the load to the nearest 0.1gn, then OAL, then neck tension also adds significantly to the reward for me.

I also invested in a Corbin press, dies and jackets to construct my favourite bullets. I don't think I will ever fire enough rounds to "pay" for this equipment - and I am a prolific target shooter - however this was not the point as I will only use this equipment and dies for personal use. I wanted to build bullets to the highest level of precision that I was capable of - apparently as good or better than 'mass produced' target bullets.

 

[hoochie]

if you want to become good with your pistol, you have to shoot lots of rounds. To shoot lots of rounds, you need to reload.

 

[KDX]

... if if you are shooting enough to pay for the initial investment in reloading equipment. Don't get me wrong - I reload, but somebody who shoots, say, 25 rounds a month is going to take a long, long time to make up the difference. Using virtualdodo's prices as representative, reloading can save 7¢ a round. Let's say you drop $400 on reloading equipment. You'd need to reload 5,700 rounds before you had that paid off and started saving money.

Right now I reload for 3 different rifles and 9mm. Next year I will probably add 338LM. Anyone who already has the equipment should reload even if it's only the 9mm.

 

[stevebc]

<snip> or if you have any product you recommend (Powder, Primer,Bullet) and a place to get them let me know, I also have 1200 rounds of 9mm brass so that's why I didn't add that.

I use 124gr Berry's and CamPro plated bullets because they're cheaper than jacketed, and don't have the leading issues cast lead rounds do. Several dealers here sell them.
I use Win brass, with 4.3gr W231, and CCI small pistol primers.