TT33 & Browning 1903 cal change

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MarkdevCanada

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Hi guys:

Just a quick question re changing cal. Can a Russian TT33 which is 7.62x25 or a FN Browning 1903/1907 which is 9mm brownng long be changed to 9mm NATO by just dropping in a 9mm barrel?

In both cases the 9mm Nato is a slightly less powerfull, shorter and has a breach face VERY close to the orginal cal.

Cheers
Mark
 
MARKDEV CANADA:
I agree, the Tokarev is no problem, we even sell "combo" packages 9x19 & 7.62x25 no problem....

DO NOT do this with the Browning 1903, first of all it was designed for a rather low pressure round, the 9mm long....
It is a straight blow back pistol, NOT well adapted to the higher pressure 9x19 round which generates almost twice the pressure of the 9mmL.
one easy and safe conversion is to make up a sleeve (chamber bushing) and use .380acp ammo, works fine
OR relaod for it by making your cases by cutting back .38acp/super brass. Both the 9mmL and the .38acr are semi rimmed cartridges, not rimless like the 9x19
If you need loading data let me know
John
 
canuck said:
John, would you mind elaborating a bit on this?
I wouldn't mind being able to shoot my '03/'07 someday
Click to expand...

Probably easier to just trim back .38 ACP/Super brass to the same OAL of the original 9mm Browning long ctg. The rest of the case dimensions are very similar. And I believe you can use standard .38 ACP dies to make reloads for it, too.

I just missed out on a nice Husqvarna M 1907 in 9mm Browning long at our local shop for $150... :eek:

Husqvarna_m1907_1777.jpg
 
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I have a M1907 and shoot it a bit. Like said, trim 38 Super brass to 0.800" use 38 Super dies (adjusted to compensate for the shorter length). I've used 125gr cast bullets over 4.0grs of Unique - that's about the mildest load that will cycle the action reliably.

FYI - "9mm Browning Long is slightly smaller and less powerful than 9mm Parabellum. The case was 20.32mm (0.80”), and the overall length was 27.94mm (1.10”). The bullet diameter is 9.03mm (.355”), which is the same as 9x17mm, 9x19mm, 9x21, and the various 9x23mm cartridges. Factory loads in 9mm Browning Long had a nominal velocity of 1,100 fps with a 110gr bullet."
 
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Thanks for the info guys.
Re the TT33: I'll buy a 9mm barrel for my TT33.
Re the Browning 1903: Is this 380 barrel sleeve a permanent change to the barrel or is it a drop in drop out part?
 
MARKDEV CANADA;
The easiest way is to have a chamber bushing made friction tight , and then
apply some lock tite.... Can be removed but involves a bit of work....
A permanent bushing, have it made about .0005 larger than the chamber diameter, freeze the bushing, lightly heat the chamber area (apply a wet rag to the barre) tap bushing in place, it will never come out....
Shop around there were some barrels in .380acp on the market at one time, either Sarco or Numrich....
Simple solution: Load your own 9mmL
John
 
I have shot 9x19 in Browning 1903... nothing special., works fine.. However, 9x19 (use 115 grains) is shorter and will brake your extractor at some point. Technically, if you get a new barrel, you're good to go. Barrel is designed to hold the pressure of the round. For 1903 the much safer bet is 380 and barrels are available for sale. As for me, I just shoot 9mm Browning Long (9x20mm). It's cost about $25 for 50 rounds, but at least it's original.
 
Guess KTO: Hope I'm not close to you when the frame lugs shear off the 1903/1907 when you're shooting 9X19. As stated in this thread, the 1907 is a straight blow back and doesn't lock. Better go back to your physics classes and review "for every action, there is an equal but opposite reaction". That means the barrel is only one part that contains the pressure. The brass wants to push it's way out of the chamber towards the shooter, and the only thing holding it back in the 1907 is the slide. The slide stops it's backwards travel by hitting the frame lugs. When they break, the shooter will be wearing the slide.
 
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