TT33 hammer follows slide sometimes to half-#### position

denlion

denlion

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Hi guys,

Guys, I have got Tok tt33 1944. Works and feels nice, but sometimes when slide hits the stop, hammer also follows it to the half-#### position.
I have found similar issue on some US gunboard and guys describes it in the almost similar way:

"but occasionally the hammer would follow the slide forward and catch at half ####. It did it a few times before it finally fell through the half-#### and popped a couple rounds in a row. Stopped shooting it then."

I am afraid this is my future too - sooner or later it will pop two rounds in a row passing the half-#### position.

That guy got the answer: "The notch and sear engagement, and possibly your sear spring need to be tuned up. It's a tricky job"

Does anybody have some experience or thoughts on how to fix it?

Plz help.
Thanks.
 
I bet I know exactly what is happening here.
Mine did the same thing. If you pull the hammer assembly out and take the hammer out I would be willing to bet your full #### notch is worn. IF you can find one a "new" hammer is about $20 and literally took me 10 minutes from starting to tear down the pistol until it was back together and ready to go.
If it is the same as mine and want to try you might, I repeat might, be able to get someone that knows what they are doing to fix it if you can't find a hammer.
 
Hi greywolf, thanks for the detailed answer. Do you know where I can find schema of the TT33 to see what are you talking about? I can disassemble hammer assembly, but not sure what to look at.

Considering that I have bought it from the dealer a couple of weeks ago I will try to contact them for help too.
 
Ok, I have actually found it. Here we go. What part are you talking about? 19? or one of the 22/23/24? Where would I look for it being worn?

tokarev_cal_762.jpg

Thanks in advance
 

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if it it is almost new, make sure it is still nor full of grease/ oil in sear , hammer , or take it back and get another one.
 
It is part #19 and look where I have tagged. Run your finger over it and you should feel a good ridge all the way across.
Mine was good on the one side and tapered down to almost nothing on the other.
I looked all over tonight and everyone seems to be sold out.
If you are brave and have a really fine file or stone you could try and touch it up yourself. Just do a few light passes at a time and check, check and triple check as you go. I have done my 1911's and had good results with just cleaning them up but not actually "rebuilding" the hook.
TT%20Trigger_zpsoqkrzle4.png
 
greywolf67nt said:
It is part #19 and look where I have tagged.
...
Click to expand...

Thanks greywolf a lot. I will take a look tonight. I also may just ask my Russian friends to buy that hammer in Russia and ship it to me. If that is legal. I have to check.

Actually I took that gun today to my club and it is shooting two in a row once per 7-10 rounds. So I have to fix it now (
Anyway, thanks for your help and knowledge.
 
marshall said:
if it it is almost new, make sure it is still nor full of grease/ oil in sear , hammer , or take it back and get another one.
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for the idea. It actually was full of grease and worked better, when I cleaned it and oiled with proper oil it started to do that more often (((
 
A buddy has a wartime Russian TT-33 that fires and fails to stay cocked for the next one ? Not sure if it's the same issue as yours or part?Hammer or sear? I have several new firing pins JIC ..swapping out the hammer group from a Polish one and it was 100%....Harold
 
marshall said:
don't put any oil on the sear or hammer notches
Click to expand...

That would at best be a temporary bandaid and not a proper cure. And at worst it opens up the risk of corrosion.

From my own work with my Tokarevs when I had them I'd say it's a case of either the full #### notch is not correctly shaped or it could just as easily be the disconnector parts that are not functioning correctly. Those being numbers 23 and 24. It might be that the lips of the notch on the hammer (19) is not correctly shaped or it may be that the sear (23) has a badly shaped tip that engages with the full #### hook on the hammer. Or it may well be something where the disconnector (24) is not resetting as the slide moves back in the correct manner and the trigger is holding the sear down too far or for too long during the slide cycling.

I imagine from your posts that much of the above sounds like Greek. And without the knowledge of what and how to check for all the things mentioned all I can suggest is that you need to take the gun to a proper smith or at least have someone that is more knowledgeable than yourself check all these things. The "problem" is not something that is easily seen and will be quite subtle. And it's just as likely to be related to the other parts mentioned or even the trigger bow. The rear edge with the angled facet on it also plays with the disconnector and sear in all this. So even if you can get a new hammer there is no guarantee that it is the part which is to blame.
 
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